I certainly can't your post. It covers more than I wanted to read. But I just can't deny that you have a very good point. In fact, my original idea was exactly what you have stated, but it seemed so above my level of expertise.
Now, in addition to this, it looks like I have to damned start over. The reason? We'll I looked into my records for the crossover, and it is making the 'assumption' that this woofer is the same as the woofer that this crossover was made for. Ahem, God may smite me yet. I haven't even gone through the numbers yet, but 'too much bass' may just as well be 'not enough treble' or some such mismatch. So, step one is to disconnect the crossover and listen to only the Mark Audio 12PW driver by itself, and try to go from there.
I have a feeling that a new design for a crossover is needed should I decide to use the tweeter, and I bet that is the road I am on in the end. More later.
Now, in addition to this, it looks like I have to damned start over. The reason? We'll I looked into my records for the crossover, and it is making the 'assumption' that this woofer is the same as the woofer that this crossover was made for. Ahem, God may smite me yet. I haven't even gone through the numbers yet, but 'too much bass' may just as well be 'not enough treble' or some such mismatch. So, step one is to disconnect the crossover and listen to only the Mark Audio 12PW driver by itself, and try to go from there.
I have a feeling that a new design for a crossover is needed should I decide to use the tweeter, and I bet that is the road I am on in the end. More later.
Just one of those things in life where you figured that all that needed to be done was change out a light bulb/resistor, and yet the project extends all the way to the breaker box before you are done.
So, I am happy that I made it easy for myself to remove the crossover, instead of my usual solder and then wind in razor wire just before you epoxy it all into a box or something. For some reason, I can't but overdo builds and man, following my work is usually way more trouble than following regular builds.
Ok, so now I am listening to the speakers w/o crossovers. Yes, it sounds different, mostly in a good way. The mids are more present, but the treble needs a raise. Now considering a post mentioned here about the crossover needing frequency adjustment or some sort of rebuild starts to look more attractive to me. Also the comment about using an EQ to help determine where the sound in general needs help is also helpful. In short, I need more data to be practical about 'repairing' the crossover for these drivers. I am posting a photo of what I actually found, including closer to what the real frequency that was being used as a crossover point. Not a Butterworth after all. Not 2.5Khz either. Linkwitx-Riley, 2nd order at 2.3 k....
Ok, so now I am listening to the speakers w/o crossovers. Yes, it sounds different, mostly in a good way. The mids are more present, but the treble needs a raise. Now considering a post mentioned here about the crossover needing frequency adjustment or some sort of rebuild starts to look more attractive to me. Also the comment about using an EQ to help determine where the sound in general needs help is also helpful. In short, I need more data to be practical about 'repairing' the crossover for these drivers. I am posting a photo of what I actually found, including closer to what the real frequency that was being used as a crossover point. Not a Butterworth after all. Not 2.5Khz either. Linkwitx-Riley, 2nd order at 2.3 k....
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When you say horn loaded, is the woofer front loaded or rear loaded for bass?
If these are just basically direct radiating on a baffle it can be easily designed in sim.
As opposed to wild guessing without some sort of measurement.
Maybe a few system pics would help and tweeter model number.
Padding a tweeter with a L pad is not very hard. With some sort of data
If these are just basically direct radiating on a baffle it can be easily designed in sim.
As opposed to wild guessing without some sort of measurement.
Maybe a few system pics would help and tweeter model number.
Padding a tweeter with a L pad is not very hard. With some sort of data
Let me acknowledge that I feel a little embarrassed about something. I decided to go ahead and pull the crossover and listen to just the Mark Audio 12PW by themselves. This made an improvement over the crossover and tweeter being used. Yes, it had to do with the crossover. But it is not over yet. This morning I decided to take a step back disconnect the Black Ice Audio SS-X 'spatial expander' as well, and an additional improvement came about even though the this unit was set a zero. It seems that the tube buffer had given the speakers a fuller sound, which you guessed it more bass too.
I am just sitting back for a few days and listening to recordings unaffected by what was only a short time ago. No, don't get me wrong, due to my hearing and other things like some of the recordings themselves, things don't sound perfect. Something in the middle would be nice. The good news is that I don't have to turn up the music to get things to sing. Let me reflect on this.
FWIW, posts #7 and 9 answer the tweeter question, and this is a rear loaded horn designed by Steve Deckart of Decware Audio, model DNA2.
I am just sitting back for a few days and listening to recordings unaffected by what was only a short time ago. No, don't get me wrong, due to my hearing and other things like some of the recordings themselves, things don't sound perfect. Something in the middle would be nice. The good news is that I don't have to turn up the music to get things to sing. Let me reflect on this.
FWIW, posts #7 and 9 answer the tweeter question, and this is a rear loaded horn designed by Steve Deckart of Decware Audio, model DNA2.
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It's easy to wander around in the weeds on things like this. Do you have a known neutral speaker or set of headphones/earphones you can compare to? This is preferably done in a way that lets you switch essentially instantly from one to the other.
Ears get tired quickly and lose their frame of reference on extended listening. Even doing the things I suggested above, I try to keep my tuning sessions around 1/2 to 1 hour. A break of a few hours is usually enough to reset your ears, but I often do the next session the next day.
Ears get tired quickly and lose their frame of reference on extended listening. Even doing the things I suggested above, I try to keep my tuning sessions around 1/2 to 1 hour. A break of a few hours is usually enough to reset your ears, but I often do the next session the next day.
Headphones are an excellent suggestion for comparison. I haven't been doing enough of it, but the little that I have leads to believe that there is a need for tipping up the treble. That of course was the original reason that this started to take shape. When I did add the tweeter and crossover, I simply didn't realize how change was happening and became convinced that this was all about my hearing, the room, and even recordings, when in fact, they did all have a certain role in what I was hearing but the crossover was as guilty as anything.
Then of course came all of the suggestions/possibilities that can be tried. I even considered making new cabinets. Duh, one of the most important answers was in the box that I was criticizing! I danced around the problem for too long, finally disconnecting the crossover and tweeter, and start again with at least one problem out of the way.
Thanks for the reminder.
Then of course came all of the suggestions/possibilities that can be tried. I even considered making new cabinets. Duh, one of the most important answers was in the box that I was criticizing! I danced around the problem for too long, finally disconnecting the crossover and tweeter, and start again with at least one problem out of the way.
Thanks for the reminder.