It's crazy how much difference they make. If I am listening to some music and then disconnect the full range driver, the actual sound coming from just the tweeter doesn't sound much at all, but by removing the tweeter and leaving just the full range driver seems to remove so much more.
Very nice! This thread will be a great reference for anyone wishing to add sparkle/air to their EL70s. If you could add an explicit summary of the crossover, perhaps with a schematic...?
Good idea cogitech.
Here is my crossover design for the Dayton ND20FA-6 tweeters when being used with the CSS EL70 full range drivers:
This gives a second order crossover at around 18600Hz with 12dB of attenuation per octave. The resistors attenuate the tweeter by 6dB.
I feel this works very well with the EL70's at giving that little extra sparkle.
🙂
Here is my crossover design for the Dayton ND20FA-6 tweeters when being used with the CSS EL70 full range drivers:
This gives a second order crossover at around 18600Hz with 12dB of attenuation per octave. The resistors attenuate the tweeter by 6dB.
I feel this works very well with the EL70's at giving that little extra sparkle.
🙂
Wish I had a 0.07mH on hand. I've got the tweeter and everything else. I could try it out. I'm satisfied with the treble on mine, but it's fun to experiment. I do have some 0.15mH I could parallel just for trying out. I could then take measurements to, to see the difference.
Good idea cogitech.
Here is my crossover design for the Dayton ND20FA-6 tweeters when being used with the CSS EL70 full range drivers:
This gives a second order crossover at around 18600Hz with 12dB of attenuation per octave. The resistors attenuate the tweeter by 6dB.
I feel this works very well with the EL70's at giving that little extra sparkle.
🙂
Awesome!
Just to be clear; You have a single EL70 (4ohm) in each speaker and you are running the tweeter parallel by securing the connectors on the speaker binding posts?
Yeah, I'm using a single 4ohm EL70 in each cabinet and the tweeter is wired to the binding post.
Favorite Hi Tweeter Crossover
Here's an example of my favorite crossover to use on a high tweeter or additional tweeter. It keeps the harshness of voices out of the tweeter, but also raises the end of the response curve some, where the tweeter starts to roll off.
I used this crossover to add some 2 inch 8-ohm tweeters to a pair of speakers each with a pair of 2 inch HiVi A2S Fullrange Aluminum cone drivers in them. Each HiVi A2S Fullrange was 8 ohms, so 4 ohms total with parallel per speaker. I added the 8 ohm tweeter only to help where the A2S rolls off at 15khz, and also since the HiVi speakers are low efficiency, the louder tweeter being crossed so high in frequency made them blend right in without being too quiet to hear them, but not too loud to drown out the speakers either. They were VERY transparent, it made the Full Rangers seem to appear to be producing the upper highs, when it's really the tweeters.
Here's an example of my favorite crossover to use on a high tweeter or additional tweeter. It keeps the harshness of voices out of the tweeter, but also raises the end of the response curve some, where the tweeter starts to roll off.
I used this crossover to add some 2 inch 8-ohm tweeters to a pair of speakers each with a pair of 2 inch HiVi A2S Fullrange Aluminum cone drivers in them. Each HiVi A2S Fullrange was 8 ohms, so 4 ohms total with parallel per speaker. I added the 8 ohm tweeter only to help where the A2S rolls off at 15khz, and also since the HiVi speakers are low efficiency, the louder tweeter being crossed so high in frequency made them blend right in without being too quiet to hear them, but not too loud to drown out the speakers either. They were VERY transparent, it made the Full Rangers seem to appear to be producing the upper highs, when it's really the tweeters.
Attachments
I'm going to try the parallel inductor on another tweeter experiment to see how its impedance change at high frequency affects it.
What about using an iron-powder toroid to make the inductor?
What about using an iron-powder toroid to make the inductor?
I would consider mounting a second tweeter on the back. It would give an extra 6dB and great spatial sound.
And once in production with a nice design and nice little button to set the level, it would sell easily for 1000 £ / 1500 USD / € (my commission on profit for this idea: 20%)
And once in production with a nice design and nice little button to set the level, it would sell easily for 1000 £ / 1500 USD / € (my commission on profit for this idea: 20%)
Hi All,
I am building a 2.1 boom box using a 2.1 TPA3118 based amp which puts out 30W x 2 for the Satellites/FR and 60W x1 for the Subwoofer. There is a crossover built into the amp for the Subwoofer from 30Hz to 150Hz. There is no built in HPF for either the Sub or the FRs.
I am using a pair of Dayton Audio RS100-8 (8 Ohm) for Satellites/FR duties with a first order HPF at 100Hz (200 mfd Cap) and a basic BSC comprising of a 0.90mH Inductor and 6 Ohm Resistor in parallel.
The Sub is a Tang Band W6-1139SIF (4 Ohm) with a first order HPF at 33Hz (1200 mfd Cap).
The sound is pretty controlled and coherent. The only thing missing are the topmost frequencies when I compare it with my main system which is a three way system using separates (I am not comparing sound stage here). The difference in the top end is not much, maybe around 10%. To compensate for this and open up the sound with better dispersion, I was planning on adding AMT tweeters at the top part of the speaker (the top back portion). I was needing some 'clarity' with the wire connections for the same.
I've read that we need to wire the tweeter after the +VE terminal of the FR and add a Cap to the +VE terminal of the Tweeter (I plan to use a 2 mfd Cap for a 10KHz first order HPF considering a 8 ohm Tweeter). My confusion is with the fact that I have a BSC in place BEFORE the +VE terminal of the FR. How will this affect the high frequencies going towards the Tweeter which is wired AFTER the FR. Do I need to wire the Tweeter some other way?
Thanks in advance.
I am building a 2.1 boom box using a 2.1 TPA3118 based amp which puts out 30W x 2 for the Satellites/FR and 60W x1 for the Subwoofer. There is a crossover built into the amp for the Subwoofer from 30Hz to 150Hz. There is no built in HPF for either the Sub or the FRs.
I am using a pair of Dayton Audio RS100-8 (8 Ohm) for Satellites/FR duties with a first order HPF at 100Hz (200 mfd Cap) and a basic BSC comprising of a 0.90mH Inductor and 6 Ohm Resistor in parallel.
The Sub is a Tang Band W6-1139SIF (4 Ohm) with a first order HPF at 33Hz (1200 mfd Cap).
The sound is pretty controlled and coherent. The only thing missing are the topmost frequencies when I compare it with my main system which is a three way system using separates (I am not comparing sound stage here). The difference in the top end is not much, maybe around 10%. To compensate for this and open up the sound with better dispersion, I was planning on adding AMT tweeters at the top part of the speaker (the top back portion). I was needing some 'clarity' with the wire connections for the same.
I've read that we need to wire the tweeter after the +VE terminal of the FR and add a Cap to the +VE terminal of the Tweeter (I plan to use a 2 mfd Cap for a 10KHz first order HPF considering a 8 ohm Tweeter). My confusion is with the fact that I have a BSC in place BEFORE the +VE terminal of the FR. How will this affect the high frequencies going towards the Tweeter which is wired AFTER the FR. Do I need to wire the Tweeter some other way?
Thanks in advance.
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