The sound will never be quite the same if the driver is changed. The crossover usually takes account of the specific drivers frequency response variations and no two models will be quite the same. Sorry to say you might find an alternative driver but the performance of the overall speaker will likely never be as good as the original where Adam controlled all aspects.
IMO the driver can probably be repaired. Can you give us some photos and maybe we can direct you how to work on it? Most likely dustcap removal and then cleaning out the voice coil gap with air or a slip of paper.
I'd guess something got in the gap, but alternatively maybe a plating on the metal of the magnet structure is flaking off.
IMO the driver can probably be repaired. Can you give us some photos and maybe we can direct you how to work on it? Most likely dustcap removal and then cleaning out the voice coil gap with air or a slip of paper.
I'd guess something got in the gap, but alternatively maybe a plating on the metal of the magnet structure is flaking off.
Thanks Tenson. There's nothing much to see, heres the 8ohm equivalent on ebay.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186022132852
Fixing it would be better for the reasons you state and also they have extra magnets epoxy glued on the back which probably won't come off without breaking.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/186022132852
Fixing it would be better for the reasons you state and also they have extra magnets epoxy glued on the back which probably won't come off without breaking.
So it looks like the back of the spider is open and that will give access to the voice coil gap for any unlucky debris. I looks like a small gap but try to blast some air in there down the voice coil if you can. Else, hot air and dustcap off (or cut with a scalpel) and air plus paper down the gap. Then replace dust cap (if you get that far we'll find a replacement, Sound Imports just added more repair parts this week).
I'll add that 8 ohm vs 4 ohm doesn't really matter for an active speaker. The frequency response might be a little different, but if it's the same driver other than impedance it might be close enough to drop in as a pair.
I'll add that 8 ohm vs 4 ohm doesn't really matter for an active speaker. The frequency response might be a little different, but if it's the same driver other than impedance it might be close enough to drop in as a pair.
I had a brain fart here. Impedance will not affect an active crossover, but the lower impedance driver will be louder for the same input voltage. So maybe not a drop in.
I read from your comments that you don't want to measure the TSP parameter of the driver or frequency response. Which makes any speculation about what replacement driver to use quite pointless. If that is your way, just take any cheap woofer that fit's the hole, color and bill. I'm sure it will make some noise.
Also, you are looking for cheap, on ebay. A new, well matching driver has to be changed in a pairs, 120€ each will be too expensive for you, the speaker not worth 240€.
If you want me to do an educated guess for a real match, my bet would be on the Scan-Speak Discovery 22W/8534G00, which should be a Vifa construction.
It's TSP make it fit the cabinet volume and it may even be a drop in replacement from the data. Just a guess.
Once again, what a professional would do:
Measure TSP, choose driver.
Install into defective cabinet.
Measure both, the working old and the new driver in situ.
Compare measurements.
Adjust new driver to match the original response.
If bass is different, measure impedance curve of woofer in cabinet.
Modify the port for best response.
Repeat on the second speaker.
Sell the working original woofer for big money on eBay. They are rare!
This is a very simple process and should take about 2-3 hours.
If you want to be a professionel and do work like one, you got to have some tools and skills. Tools cost some money (very little if you take my advice), skills are earned by reading, practice and following procedures.
For TSP you need a resistor, a PC with soundcard, a small scale and some sticky stuff to temporarily fix a known weight on the cone. Plus some free program like REW of course.
For level matching some microphone is needed.
In the future, with your new skills, you will be able to do such repairs without spending days in questionable internet forums.
The only alternative is to put the speakers in storage and wait until some used chassis shows up on some sales platform, at a price you are able and willing to pay.
Also, you are looking for cheap, on ebay. A new, well matching driver has to be changed in a pairs, 120€ each will be too expensive for you, the speaker not worth 240€.
If you want me to do an educated guess for a real match, my bet would be on the Scan-Speak Discovery 22W/8534G00, which should be a Vifa construction.
It's TSP make it fit the cabinet volume and it may even be a drop in replacement from the data. Just a guess.
Once again, what a professional would do:
Measure TSP, choose driver.
Install into defective cabinet.
Measure both, the working old and the new driver in situ.
Compare measurements.
Adjust new driver to match the original response.
If bass is different, measure impedance curve of woofer in cabinet.
Modify the port for best response.
Repeat on the second speaker.
Sell the working original woofer for big money on eBay. They are rare!
This is a very simple process and should take about 2-3 hours.
If you want to be a professionel and do work like one, you got to have some tools and skills. Tools cost some money (very little if you take my advice), skills are earned by reading, practice and following procedures.
For TSP you need a resistor, a PC with soundcard, a small scale and some sticky stuff to temporarily fix a known weight on the cone. Plus some free program like REW of course.
For level matching some microphone is needed.
In the future, with your new skills, you will be able to do such repairs without spending days in questionable internet forums.
The only alternative is to put the speakers in storage and wait until some used chassis shows up on some sales platform, at a price you are able and willing to pay.
😂
Who said anything about me being a professional?
My friends studio monitor is in my DIY workshop for repair but the only other speaker repair i have ever done is to fix a humming transformer. I love this forum, have learnt enough over the years to build my own hifi which most people agree is stunning and brings me hours of joy each week.
Where did I say I did not want to measure TSP?
I did say that I know nothing about loudspeakers and so came here to ask you guys for help, primarily with how it might be repaired.
Thanks for the insight into how a professional speaker engineer would tackle a problem like this, and for taking the time to identify a suitable replacement - that was really kind of you. If cleaning the magnet gap does not solve it I have even more options now.
The Adam P22A pair was around €1500 in 2008 IIRC, so €240 is not the end of the world, they would certainly still be a lot better than that €240 being instead spent on new speakers.
Who said anything about me being a professional?
My friends studio monitor is in my DIY workshop for repair but the only other speaker repair i have ever done is to fix a humming transformer. I love this forum, have learnt enough over the years to build my own hifi which most people agree is stunning and brings me hours of joy each week.
Where did I say I did not want to measure TSP?
I did say that I know nothing about loudspeakers and so came here to ask you guys for help, primarily with how it might be repaired.
Thanks for the insight into how a professional speaker engineer would tackle a problem like this, and for taking the time to identify a suitable replacement - that was really kind of you. If cleaning the magnet gap does not solve it I have even more options now.
The Adam P22A pair was around €1500 in 2008 IIRC, so €240 is not the end of the world, they would certainly still be a lot better than that €240 being instead spent on new speakers.
I did not expect you to be a speaker repair professional!
Just wanted to make a clear statement, what to do if a "no but or if", just a clean repair is wanted. There where some questionable comments in this thread that may give a very different end result.
Even the repair as described, doesn't make it an origional ADAM, but is the closest you can get without OEM spares. The speaker may even be better or a little worse, the result will be subjective I think.
I would think better, because the new one is one of the best chassis you can get in class and made by Scan Speak.
Next may be a dangerous sentence, if one takes it not really serious: As long as you stay close to the original intention, the sound differences with such a repair will be less than many purists expect. If you decide to do an "Upgrade" and fit some Aluminum, Magnesium, Carbon/Kevlar, PP or other driver, you sure will mess up.
Have a look at the original driver from the back. It should look quite the same. Maybe with 1 or 2 more struts, as Vifa changed the basket design over time, but the basics are very close, just a little bit improved.
If there is a second magnet glued to the back, this is less a problem than some might think. You can only change TSP very little with such a measure, it may only be there to reduce the magnetic field for CRT monitors no one uses any more today. Ignore it. Measured TSP is what matters.
Tbh, cleaning the gap will not solve your problem imo. People think these speakers are party resistant. That is not true. You can burn them trough, if played for a longer period of time at maximum level. In such cases the voice coil glue melts and the windings move on the carrier. If you take it apart the VC will be brown and displaced. The other speaker may have the same problem, just in an earlyer stage. Common fault with these monitors when used by drunken ignorants.
My bad.
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Peerless/M21WO39-04
Need to match spl, qts, fs and general frequency response.
Perhaps Adam already have an idea for a suggested replacement?
https://loudspeakerdatabase.com/Peerless/M21WO39-04
Need to match spl, qts, fs and general frequency response.
Perhaps Adam already have an idea for a suggested replacement?