I've changed my mind. Now I'm thinking about the Don Snyder & Chris LAB12 tapped horn. Any advice before I dive in?
Hi Ty_Bower,
If I remember it correctly the Don Snyder LAB12 TH was originally designed for use with a series inductor to smoothen out the response in the passband.
Another similar design is Petter Persson's: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th.html
This design uses a less expensive driver, and does not need the series inductor. Petter has recently added a single driver variation, Post #94.
Regards,
If I remember it correctly the Don Snyder LAB12 TH was originally designed for use with a series inductor to smoothen out the response in the passband.
Another similar design is Petter Persson's: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/160879-build-your-own-2x12-th.html
This design uses a less expensive driver, and does not need the series inductor. Petter has recently added a single driver variation, Post #94.
Regards,
Ok, so here's where I am going now. I liked the fold pattern used by the Lab 12 tapped horn project, but I'm not ready to spring for that driver just yet ($$). Instead, I thought I might start with a smaller and much cheaper project just to see if it suits me. I had a difficult time finding a driver that sims well in a tapped horn, but read a few threads suggesting the MCM 55-2421 could be made to work. The box is just a scaled down version of the Lab 12 tapped horn. I haven't built one yet, but here's my design:
- I compromised on the size of the cabinet to get it all to fit on a single sheet of plywood. I've assumed we are using American sized ply, 4' by 8' sheet. I've also assumed the thickness is 23/32", which makes for a few awkward dimensions. Sorry.
- I left enough room in the cutsheet for an 1/8" kerf between all parts. It's tight, but should fit if you are careful. If you have confidence in the vertical plane saw operator at your local Lowes or Home Dept, you might be able to get him to cut all six 9" wide strips off a sheet of ply. Then just have him cut the remaining piece in half. All the pieces should fit easily into your car, and you can finish cutting at home with nothing more than a circular saw.
- If the sides ended up a bit larger than the indicated 20 and 1/16", trim the proud edge with a flush trim bit on your router to make it look a little nicer.
- All dimensions were rounded off to the nearest 1/8". I really should start using metric units some day.
- The bottom, piece F, is specified 1/32" longer than it needs to be. It really should be 19 and 11/32" long. Sand it flush, or just ignore it.
- The offsets (red lines with arrows on ends) are all registered from the front face of the cabinet. Don't register from the end of F.
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Subwoofer/2421cutsheet.gif
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Subwoofer/2421layout.gif
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i43/Ty_Bower/Subwoofer/Response.gif
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