Hi,
I was messing about with my ICEpower 200AS2 amp, figuring out how to make mute and standby functions work. I successfully made the amp mute and moved the control aux voltage wire (DVDD-wire) to test the standby function. in this move I accidentally touched the aux-GND with DVDD-wire, causing a short and instantly cutting of the amp. I can't get the amp to react to anything now and I can't find any burnt components, but I can hear an on/off hissing sound from the PS part of the board. Can anybody help with explaining to me what might've be up with my amp?
I know I should have disconnected the power when moving the wires, but sometimes I get caught up in the enjoyment.
Link to the amp if datasheet is needed: https://icepoweraudio.com/buy/as-series/200as2/
Thanks in advance!
I was messing about with my ICEpower 200AS2 amp, figuring out how to make mute and standby functions work. I successfully made the amp mute and moved the control aux voltage wire (DVDD-wire) to test the standby function. in this move I accidentally touched the aux-GND with DVDD-wire, causing a short and instantly cutting of the amp. I can't get the amp to react to anything now and I can't find any burnt components, but I can hear an on/off hissing sound from the PS part of the board. Can anybody help with explaining to me what might've be up with my amp?
I know I should have disconnected the power when moving the wires, but sometimes I get caught up in the enjoyment.
Link to the amp if datasheet is needed: https://icepoweraudio.com/buy/as-series/200as2/
Thanks in advance!
Hi,
Yeah there is non-replaceable fuse on the board, measure if it is open. If I'm not mistaken its the one marked in the attachment.
I've got the same amplifiers, but haven't had problems with them so haven't looked further to it than recalling from memory and outlining the info on the manual to the attachments.
I hope its repairable! Good luck
Yeah there is non-replaceable fuse on the board, measure if it is open. If I'm not mistaken its the one marked in the attachment.
I've got the same amplifiers, but haven't had problems with them so haven't looked further to it than recalling from memory and outlining the info on the manual to the attachments.
I hope its repairable! Good luck
The datasheet says that the Dvdd is protected against overcurrent, så the first step is to do a "hard reset", e.g. remove power from the module, to reset the protection. If that doesn't work, check the mains fuse and whether the module is powered correctly. If the PSU is running, measure if there is voltage on the "hanger"-module power connector as that should be the same power bus as the on-board amplifier.
Thank you for your comments, they are very helpful. Sorry for the late reply, have had a busy week, so I haven't had time before now.
I found the fuse on the board and tested it with a continuity test, which showed fined results. I also measured the impedance, which was below 1 ohm, so that should be fine as well. I then measured the "hanger"-module power connector, which measured 46,6V so that is acceptable. I've tried multiple times to pull the plug on the board, but nothing changes. When measuring the voltage across the DVDD-wire and GND I find that the voltage is constantly dropping, then rising again, and then falling again. It does this continually without ever dropping to 0V.
I then tried activating the standby mode on the board. I had set up the circuit with an LED that would emit light while the PSU is running in "normal" mode. As I hoped and expected the LED stopped emitting light when pushing down the button to activate the standby mode. I now have multiple indicators that the board is still alive and somewhat well. However, what I find confusing is that the LED should be continually emitting light, as I had it connected to the DVDD-wire, but instead it blinked slowly (see linked video). I then activated the mute function, which showed the same results as when in standby mode.
I have recorded and uploaded a video to Youtube of the weird sound the board makes and the blinking LED. The sound isn't that loud, so I recommend turning up the volume.
Link:
I have begun to have a feeling, that it may be the amp part of the board that is the problem
.
I found the fuse on the board and tested it with a continuity test, which showed fined results. I also measured the impedance, which was below 1 ohm, so that should be fine as well. I then measured the "hanger"-module power connector, which measured 46,6V so that is acceptable. I've tried multiple times to pull the plug on the board, but nothing changes. When measuring the voltage across the DVDD-wire and GND I find that the voltage is constantly dropping, then rising again, and then falling again. It does this continually without ever dropping to 0V.
I then tried activating the standby mode on the board. I had set up the circuit with an LED that would emit light while the PSU is running in "normal" mode. As I hoped and expected the LED stopped emitting light when pushing down the button to activate the standby mode. I now have multiple indicators that the board is still alive and somewhat well. However, what I find confusing is that the LED should be continually emitting light, as I had it connected to the DVDD-wire, but instead it blinked slowly (see linked video). I then activated the mute function, which showed the same results as when in standby mode.
I have recorded and uploaded a video to Youtube of the weird sound the board makes and the blinking LED. The sound isn't that loud, so I recommend turning up the volume.
Link:
I have begun to have a feeling, that it may be the amp part of the board that is the problem
.
The LED flashing and the jumping voltage on the control pin is normally an indication the the protection circuit is being triggered. It tries to restart, but then immediately re-enters protection again. As the supply voltage is normal it seems the PSU is OK, but something is indeed damaged on the amp board.
Hi
So I sat down with the board again, trying to figure out what might be wrong. I unscrewed the backplate to get a look at the underside of the board. I then stumbled upon a component, which I can't figure out what is. I measured a resistance of about 3M ohms with the red probe on the right and the black probe on the left, which is also the only way the the continuity test shows anything. I also figured that the left side of the component is connected to the aux-GND, while there is nothing happening if I have one probe on aux-GND and another of the right side of the component (see image, boxed in red and looks like a red tube).
So I sat down with the board again, trying to figure out what might be wrong. I unscrewed the backplate to get a look at the underside of the board. I then stumbled upon a component, which I can't figure out what is. I measured a resistance of about 3M ohms with the red probe on the right and the black probe on the left, which is also the only way the the continuity test shows anything. I also figured that the left side of the component is connected to the aux-GND, while there is nothing happening if I have one probe on aux-GND and another of the right side of the component (see image, boxed in red and looks like a red tube).
Thank you for your comments, they are greatly appreciated.
I removed the thermal pad to discover, as Nisbeth wrote, a TPA3255. I haven't been able to locate the problem yet, however I tried measuring the capacitors mounted right next to the TPA3255 and discovered something, which doesn't make much sense in my brain (but I am also quite new in this field, so not everything does).
(See the image for reference). The top capacitor inside the red box had a capacitance higher than what my multimeter could measure (which is somewhere above 100μF). I had read online, that if a capacitor measures 0 in resistance it is dead, which I then tried. The display on my multimeter then showed me 2,2Ω, which made me think that might be the problem. Most of the other capacitors on the board where measured in millions of Ω. The bottom capacitor in the red box measured around 1,4kΩ and 0,8μF so I believe that to be fine. The capacitors in the blue box are too "large" for me to measure, but when I tried to measure their resistance, they where also low, like the bottom capacitor in the red box, but still way better than the first capacitor I described. I know the measurements in resistance aren't that useful in terms of application, but as I understood, they can be used to know if a capacitor might be toast. I have thought if trying to replace the capacitor, but since I can't measure its capacitance, it is going to be very hard for me to know exactly what to replace it with. With my limited knowledge and experience I find it difficult to confidently conclude that the top capacitor in the red box is the problem.
It would be lovely if someone else with an ICEpower 200AS2 could do the same measurements, to see if they get something familier to my results.
I removed the thermal pad to discover, as Nisbeth wrote, a TPA3255. I haven't been able to locate the problem yet, however I tried measuring the capacitors mounted right next to the TPA3255 and discovered something, which doesn't make much sense in my brain (but I am also quite new in this field, so not everything does).
(See the image for reference). The top capacitor inside the red box had a capacitance higher than what my multimeter could measure (which is somewhere above 100μF). I had read online, that if a capacitor measures 0 in resistance it is dead, which I then tried. The display on my multimeter then showed me 2,2Ω, which made me think that might be the problem. Most of the other capacitors on the board where measured in millions of Ω. The bottom capacitor in the red box measured around 1,4kΩ and 0,8μF so I believe that to be fine. The capacitors in the blue box are too "large" for me to measure, but when I tried to measure their resistance, they where also low, like the bottom capacitor in the red box, but still way better than the first capacitor I described. I know the measurements in resistance aren't that useful in terms of application, but as I understood, they can be used to know if a capacitor might be toast. I have thought if trying to replace the capacitor, but since I can't measure its capacitance, it is going to be very hard for me to know exactly what to replace it with. With my limited knowledge and experience I find it difficult to confidently conclude that the top capacitor in the red box is the problem.
It would be lovely if someone else with an ICEpower 200AS2 could do the same measurements, to see if they get something familier to my results.
Attachments
Maybe this comes way too late, but bumped on this thread when I looked solution to same issue: made the same mistake, actually few times.
Anyways, here's how I solved this:
The DVDD feed has current limiting resistor of 0.15ohm located close to P101 connector. This resistor (marked R150) just burns open and basically cuts off the supply feed of circuitry for power on, stand by etc. Replacing this resistor solved the problem on few IcePowers I worked with. (AVDD and AVSS seems to have similar kind of circuitry, in case the short happens either of these outputs so same idea may apply.)
While this may not be the solution for all cases, figured to post this solution for future readers of this thread as one option to look for.
