Accessing the wires of Martin Logan Prodigy Pulse-Lok connector without destroying it

Is it possible to open up the Pulse-Lok panel connector of a ML Prodigy to access the 3 wires without cutting the cable up? I need to test bypassing the connector but since it's just a test I hope I can do it in a reversible way.

Press & Seal info from another datasheet
"The PL-700 plug housing is designed to accept Amphenol Alden’s one piece, Press & Seal PVC Backshell. This unique backshell simply snaps into place providing an IP-67 rated seal to the plug housing and cable exit without hardware resulting in a clean overmolded look. For optimum sealing we suggest selecting a wire exit i.d. that is at least .005” smaller than your nominal cable diameter."
Wow thanks for finding that info. But it doesn’t mention how to disassemble it to remove the wires. Anyone has any ideas?

Yes there is heat shrink over part of the wires and connector. I can cut the heat shrink but I don’t want to cut the cable if possible.
If it snaps on, I assume it snaps off also. You'll have to make enough clearance for it to slide down the cable though, which will involve removing a couple inches of heat shrink.

If you want to take the pins out of the connector, I assume you're going to need a pin extractor tool of the proper size. That's the typical way on things using Molex-style pins.
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What do you mean take the pins out of the connector? I want to be able to access the individual wires so I can do this:


This pic is from ML and it is their recommended fix if the connector is defective since that particular connector ML uses for the Prodigy is no longer available or made.
I can only know what you say in your posts, not what you're thinking. If I could read minds I'd be having more fun than hanging out on diyAudio :cool:. Or I'd be tortured by seeing too much from every random person :eek: . . . yeah, that's probably more likely. That power would definitely need a focus control and off switch. (Through Other Eyes by Lafferty, and X: The Man with the X-Ray Eyes imply one should be careful)

I assumed you were just trying to get more direct access to the wire/pin connections and you intended to be able to use the Pulse-Lok connector again. To do that, you would extract the pins, and then re-insert them later. Or put new pins on and re-use the body.

This is a different connector, but assembly is likely similar for the pins/body.
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If your backshell is the snap-on version, it won't be threaded (not that twisting the back should bother anything as long as you don't twist up the wires). A bending/pulling motion is more likely to work for a snap-on back.

The pins most likely won't come out without an extraction tool. The circled part below is a spring element that locks the pin into the shell/body. The extraction tool is a cylinder that goes over the pin to depress those and release the pin.


This is an example of the method, but tools vary. And you obviously need the right diameter one.

Sorry I can't tell you the exact method and tools. I'm going by what I can see in the datasheets and other details I've picked up about connectors in general.

However the process goes for you, please let us know so someone in the future might be helped by your experience.
Edit: Ah, I just realized you mean I wouldn't be able to get the pins out of the connector at all without the right tool. That's probably going to be difficult as there are different sized pins also:


(Original post below)
Thanks for all the info! For a test, could I just insert the pins directly into a terminal block like this without removing the pins? Would it provide a good enough contact?

Probably, as long as the connection between the pin and wire's conductor is still good. It's quick, so worth a try. Try not to deform the pins if you want to use them again though. For short-term tests, even alligator style test leads are OK. I've used them countless times on electrostatics. Just keep them separated and don't get creative with trying to make connections while things are powered. The high voltage audio signal does unpleasant things to us puny humans - some of which are deadly.

There's normally a strain relief built into the pin as well, so it can be a little hard to tell what's what at times. You can see that in the crimping video: the rear portion of the pin's crimp grabs onto the insulation. The front part is on the conductor.

Yours may be soldered also. That was one of the options in the datasheet.

Just a random set of tools from Amazon. There are better ones out there, but I doubt you'll be using them much so a cheap set might be OK.

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