oaristys said:
Power transformers are built to work well at 50Hz and you want something that goes lower. You might see what a company like Plitron would charge you to wind a custom transformer.
Sure.
ZilchLab said:
Thank's for links
Looking good. Can it be possible to do this with other drivers like selenium and with just one driver ? JBL is onerous .. and two of them ! ouch.
Do you know from what frequency the stereo is important ?
Because there are many high efficiency small driver that can be mounted in relatively small enclosure but i can't expect lower than 150 hz from it.
If 150hz and less can be merge in mono without real life soundstage loss, this project become very interesting.
Because there are many high efficiency small driver that can be mounted in relatively small enclosure but i can't expect lower than 150 hz from it.
If 150hz and less can be merge in mono without real life soundstage loss, this project become very interesting.
oaristys said:
Look up the parameters of the drivers used, and find equivalents by other manufacturers. Some offer virtual clones of them.
You can do what you want with a single dual voice coil (DVC) woofer in a ported or bandpass enclosure. The problem is finding one with high enough efficiency....
Hey, can i plug one channel by coil with a double coil subwoofer ?
But like you said, this kind of driver are rarely efficient. Big coil = big weight = less efficiency (i think)
But like you said, this kind of driver are rarely efficient. Big coil = big weight = less efficiency (i think)
..maybe this one. Must be some more drivers like this. I do not think the weight of the cone is of much importance as long as the motor is powerful and suspensions are adequat. Though there are people with more knowledge than me on this forum....
http://www.monacor.de/typo3/index.php?id=75&L=1&act=8&act_sub=25&artid=2069&spr=EN&typ=u
Peter
http://www.monacor.de/typo3/index.php?id=75&L=1&act=8&act_sub=25&artid=2069&spr=EN&typ=u
Peter
low bass with low watts
Have you considered adding a cabinet around your existing diy speakers? Possibly building a horseshoe shape to fit around the towers, or actually extend the base of your speakers on each side? For example, you could have 8cf by making a box 2x2x2 around your towers.
There are many pro drivers around that could be side-mounted or front-mounted, and the overall speaker would still not be huge.
There just are not any "free lunches" with this. Either you have to look at more power, or like the posts said in the beginning, build large centers. Or, accept a higher bass cutoff, such as 35hz.
Also, could you state a budget to work with for the drivers?
Good luck!
Have you considered adding a cabinet around your existing diy speakers? Possibly building a horseshoe shape to fit around the towers, or actually extend the base of your speakers on each side? For example, you could have 8cf by making a box 2x2x2 around your towers.
There are many pro drivers around that could be side-mounted or front-mounted, and the overall speaker would still not be huge.
There just are not any "free lunches" with this. Either you have to look at more power, or like the posts said in the beginning, build large centers. Or, accept a higher bass cutoff, such as 35hz.
Also, could you state a budget to work with for the drivers?
Good luck!
peterbrorsson said:
This driver have good specs !
If i have two voice coil, can i plug two separate channel on each one ?
If yes, what happen with difference between ? For example, if it exist a delay between two channel for x reason..
badman said:
a 18x18x30 bass bin with side PRs below Mid/High design using a AV15X driver will work awesome.
http://aespeakers.com/shop/catalog/...id=68&osCsid=32d0b9498fcd6eec202ba3e80ee63f73
AE speakers is making the best woofer and subwoofer drivers out there these days IMO. If you want your 95dB, buy these woofers!!
Re: low bass with low watts
I know i need more volume to do deeper and high spl bass with big cone for more mass. If i do two times 2x2x2 around my tower with one bass driver each enclosure, i will not be able to have the same result as with one driver with 4x2x2. ... i think ...
I want medium high SPL. Not real high efficiency project with horn method at 98db and more. Lot of tube amp and entry level solid state work between 12 and 60 watts. Good tube amp is 25-35 watt and go over 20 watt in class A is expensive.
I can compare to airplane. An little cessna have poor lift capability because it cost less to do more hors power than more wingspan etc. But the Nasa have build a plane able to flight non stop with solar energy (low HP). It can flight higher too.
In my case. Develop more lift (efficiency) is less expensive than more hors power. Keep in mind the quality of amplification used. I know lot of cheap class T and class D amp exist but i want to keep the power of my tube amp and, if i have to reinvest in amplification, i will buy a class A so no more power here. (i am not rich)
For the budget, i want to find the cheaper solution and there, i will decide if i can afford it. Because sometime it's better to wait or do nothing than buy product or invest in project that will not hit the expectation.
Thanks for your help 🙂
Ho and.. by the way, this project is for later. Probably with other speaker than my actual tower because this one is not really high efficiency. (~92db) More efficient than majority but far lower than typical "high spl" project.
homebuilder said:
I know i need more volume to do deeper and high spl bass with big cone for more mass. If i do two times 2x2x2 around my tower with one bass driver each enclosure, i will not be able to have the same result as with one driver with 4x2x2. ... i think ...
I want medium high SPL. Not real high efficiency project with horn method at 98db and more. Lot of tube amp and entry level solid state work between 12 and 60 watts. Good tube amp is 25-35 watt and go over 20 watt in class A is expensive.
I can compare to airplane. An little cessna have poor lift capability because it cost less to do more hors power than more wingspan etc. But the Nasa have build a plane able to flight non stop with solar energy (low HP). It can flight higher too.
In my case. Develop more lift (efficiency) is less expensive than more hors power. Keep in mind the quality of amplification used. I know lot of cheap class T and class D amp exist but i want to keep the power of my tube amp and, if i have to reinvest in amplification, i will buy a class A so no more power here. (i am not rich)
For the budget, i want to find the cheaper solution and there, i will decide if i can afford it. Because sometime it's better to wait or do nothing than buy product or invest in project that will not hit the expectation.
Thanks for your help 🙂
Ho and.. by the way, this project is for later. Probably with other speaker than my actual tower because this one is not really high efficiency. (~92db) More efficient than majority but far lower than typical "high spl" project.
One AV15X in a 2x2x2 box with PRs goes very deep, very high SPL.
I posted above that a 18x18x30 box with that 15" driver, 2 PRs will be an incredible bass bin for main speakers.
doug20 said:
I look at this link but this driver seems to have only 90.5 db with fs of 24hz ... how can i reach 95db ? The cost is higher than selenium
oaristys said:
2.83V: 94.3dB
Fs of 24Hz does not mean it only does down to 24Hz, You can either use porting, passive radiators or LT circuits to have a very well designed driver play lower successfuly.
People have that AV15 tuned easily to 18Hz in their subwoofer designs.
They cost more because they are better drivers!
You want 98dBs?
http://www.aespeakers.com/drivers.php?driver_id=24
That one does sick output!!!
Anyways, I believe the AE woofers (AV series or Lambda Series) are the best of the best for pro audio high SPL performance, John Janowitz has a great track record in building drivers and speaker systems.
If you are serious about a 20-20K build with high efficiency drivers that actually have very low distortion then do some research on that site.
FWIW, the TD series drivers (Lambda series) was original designed by I believe Nick Mckinney, he is a member on this forum and many I think have followed his great driver designs.
If you are serious about a 20-20K build with high efficiency drivers that actually have very low distortion then do some research on that site.
FWIW, the TD series drivers (Lambda series) was original designed by I believe Nick Mckinney, he is a member on this forum and many I think have followed his great driver designs.
Re: Re: low bass with low watts
My experience disagrees with this. Because you are stuck with Hoffman, drop the idea for high eff bass and simply use a dedicated driver for the <100Hz range irrespective of the efficiency if it gets the SPL and F3 you want. Power is cheap in SS and you will not hear any difference at the low end.oaristys said:
It has a much better motor and considerably higher build than any Selenium I have ever seen (quite a few).oaristys said:
Re: Re: Re: low bass with low watts
Why i will not hear any difference ?
Ok... If i go with active solution, i don't need big drivers and big enclosure. Many small subwoofer do the job in a 2 cubic feet because the driver inside have high power handling and mounted with powerfull class D amp with "bass boost" or "low mid reducer"
But now, i like my Shanling STP-80 sound and the last thing i want to do is pass this sound trough an 120$ active subwoofer module.
And there is less challenge to build an active subwoofer. It's a bit like build an speaker pair with 85db spl. Just do a "equalizer" crossover after some test and you get a great sound through your 200W amp.
Brett said:
Why i will not hear any difference ?
Ok... If i go with active solution, i don't need big drivers and big enclosure. Many small subwoofer do the job in a 2 cubic feet because the driver inside have high power handling and mounted with powerfull class D amp with "bass boost" or "low mid reducer"
But now, i like my Shanling STP-80 sound and the last thing i want to do is pass this sound trough an 120$ active subwoofer module.
And there is less challenge to build an active subwoofer. It's a bit like build an speaker pair with 85db spl. Just do a "equalizer" crossover after some test and you get a great sound through your 200W amp.
Can u learn me something 🙂 ?
I always calculate the SPL with dp 1w 1m. But sometime, i see f3 or other "f" value. What does it meen ?
And please gentleman, don't use abbreviation because i'm french and i don't understand it :s
Thank's and i appreciate your help !
and what is the difference between 1w 1m and 2.8v/1m
I always calculate the SPL with dp 1w 1m. But sometime, i see f3 or other "f" value. What does it meen ?
And please gentleman, don't use abbreviation because i'm french and i don't understand it :s
Thank's and i appreciate your help !
and what is the difference between 1w 1m and 2.8v/1m
Wow, the ProAc D100 is 92db 1w 1m sensitive with response 20-20000hz !!!
Hoffman where are you !?
Hoffman where are you !?
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