Ok but much more width...at iso width but different heigth, monitor often image better VS tower.
Have you sorted out what you want and rated it ?
Not easy, isn'it ?
Illustrating each time with exceptions will not help yourself but at opposit make you turn in circle... I know it...being therevdone that...maybe today yet 😉
Have you sorted out what you want and rated it ?
Not easy, isn'it ?
Illustrating each time with exceptions will not help yourself but at opposit make you turn in circle... I know it...being therevdone that...maybe today yet 😉
hi thank you very much It's not easy to find a 8" good up to 2 kHzIf you really want 8”, there are quite some good two-way designs with 8”-1”. This one comes to mind. Directivity well controlled, good drivers and otherwise also well designed. A conversion to a ported system obviously brings even more bass.
this scanspeak works very well
not cheap but it is high quality i guess
Thanks again
In the end it all boils down how much you can spend. If funds allow, any concept can give you your perfect sound.
Best is to have no money at all, in your dreams you can build the greatest sounding boxes in the world and will never make any mistake in their construction.
Best is to have no money at all, in your dreams you can build the greatest sounding boxes in the world and will never make any mistake in their construction.
I would disagree. I often see people throw money at their problem but they can’t make it work because the configuration is wrong.In the end it all boils down how much you can spend. If funds allow, any concept can give you your perfect sound.
On the other hand, it doesn’t take much money when you know how to do it.
@AllenB
Of course you are right, seen from the side of unlimited funds. If you DIYS a small two way speaker, I fully agree. Spending 150 or 1500$ on chassis does not really make a difference, done right, used right. Expensive chassis do not allways make the final product better. You can hear that on an endless number of commercial products.
On the other side, 30 and 150$ make a huge difference.
Now build a 3-way horn speaker for HIFI. 500$ would be a starting point, but in no way the end of the road.
Same with active speakers. These very soon get expensive.
Maybe we fully agree in one point: If you can not buy any driver, your chances to get a high end speaker are very limited.
Of course you are right, seen from the side of unlimited funds. If you DIYS a small two way speaker, I fully agree. Spending 150 or 1500$ on chassis does not really make a difference, done right, used right. Expensive chassis do not allways make the final product better. You can hear that on an endless number of commercial products.
On the other side, 30 and 150$ make a huge difference.
Now build a 3-way horn speaker for HIFI. 500$ would be a starting point, but in no way the end of the road.
Same with active speakers. These very soon get expensive.
Maybe we fully agree in one point: If you can not buy any driver, your chances to get a high end speaker are very limited.
it seems you are attached to Dyn drivers, lately I also got my taste match with Dyn. I got 30W75 which requires large box, then MW180 which also has a bit high Qts above 0.5. finally I got 24W100 and which really sound nice. tried to cross it with dsp around 1k and still sounded good.Hi thank you very much As i said above i have an old but working pair of Dynaudio Recital The drivers complement is 24W75 (i really do not know why they used this poor woofer ... maybe with another woofer the speakers would have been too good for the price ?) then the d52 and the d21
I could have been done with that Recitals .... the higher part of the spectrum is very detailed but also smooth Very very nice
The woofers instead caused me a nervous breakdown
Then with the time i discovered that they have a poor magnet and high moving mass .... a recipe for disaster
I tried many amps without any effect ... the bass is slow to start and slow to stop One of the worst woofer of which i have experience
Instead the more expensive 24W100 must be phenomenal ... ignorance is a really bad thing
https://www.dynaudioacoustics.cn/down/DYNAUDIO_24W100.pdf
that is really good With a much beefier magnet Great driver indeed ... but i do not have it![]()
good thing is i bought Dyn BM15 just to canibalize it's 24W100 so i can set dual-opposed of them which is proven topology on my dual-opposed 2x12" sub. this dual 24W100 will require a new box to be built.
back to your midrange option, currently I am using MW152 powered by Aragon2004 and ARC audio PS8 dsp, cross it around 160Hz & 2700Hz where Satori TW29RN on top.
compared to my other midrange like SB 17NRX, Alpair 10p, SS 10F, PRV 5MR450, this MW152 really shine on with full volume without being stressed which only PRV can get close to it. I suggest you can stick Dyn midrange option.
Esotar2 650 is on my watchlist to replace MW152, only positive review out there which I can't resist to try it.
Perhaps, but I could build a worthy large DIY system for less than the price of a pair of 2-way 6.5+dome bookshelf speakers from one of the big names.Now build a 3-way horn speaker for HIFI. 500$ would be a starting point,
I don't believe drivers make the system. There are specific things about drivers that can matter but if they can be met, I'm good with inexpensive drivers.Maybe we fully agree in one point: If you can not buy any driver, your chances to get a high end speaker are very limited.
Agree with Allen here, bang per buck is a very important criteria.
Some drivers are built for being cheap, some cheap drivers are built to be great, some drivers built for being expensive, some expensive drivers built to be excellent.
Inbetween all those is what we call mediocre.
I like cheap and good. It takes time to sift out all the mud (at any pricepoint), but there are some very nice cheap drivers out there.
Some drivers are built for being cheap, some cheap drivers are built to be great, some drivers built for being expensive, some expensive drivers built to be excellent.
Inbetween all those is what we call mediocre.
I like cheap and good. It takes time to sift out all the mud (at any pricepoint), but there are some very nice cheap drivers out there.
hi i think that my main discoveries have been twoit seems you are attached to Dyn drivers, lately I also got my taste match with Dyn. I got 30W75 which requires large box, then MW180 which also has a bit high Qts above 0.5. finally I got 24W100 and which really sound nice. tried to cross it with dsp around 1k and still sounded good.
good thing is i bought Dyn BM15 just to canibalize it's 24W100 so i can set dual-opposed of them which is proven topology on my dual-opposed 2x12" sub. this dual 24W100 will require a new box to be built.
back to your midrange option, currently I am using MW152 powered by Aragon2004 and ARC audio PS8 dsp, cross it around 160Hz & 2700Hz where Satori TW29RN on top.
compared to my other midrange like SB 17NRX, Alpair 10p, SS 10F, PRV 5MR450, this MW152 really shine on with full volume without being stressed which only PRV can get close to it. I suggest you can stick Dyn midrange option.
Esotar2 650 is on my watchlist to replace MW152, only positive review out there which I can't resist to try it.
1st both my Dynaudio speakers share the same 24w75 and this woofer has ruined my days Instead the 24w100 you mention is a much better driver
Problem is that both speakers now are full of lead and lead is toxic
Actually i have also another pair of Jbl L19 full of lead and with different tweeters
3 pairs loaded with lead
I am a little scared about working in presence of lead inside
I did not do it myself A friend did the mods
if not i Could replace the bloody woofers and adjust the xover
2nd increasing the mass of the speakers was a revelation indeed There is no going back here
unfortunately the simplest way that is to use lead is quite dangerous for health
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Lead is toxid, yes. If you powder it and eat a spoon full in the morning with orange juice you may run into problems. Lead left allone and handled correctly does nothing. If you fear for your life, cover it with paint. It has even been used in water installations for century's, which only in some special cases gave health problems. If you handle lead parts, wash your hands and don't put them into your mouth. Do not powder, burn or melt it.
I do not know your sources of wisdom and sure do not need to know them. Maybe someone who had been hit by a lead bullet lately told you so? In this case the cause for his health problems was not the poison, but the gun that delivered the bullet.
I do not know your sources of wisdom and sure do not need to know them. Maybe someone who had been hit by a lead bullet lately told you so? In this case the cause for his health problems was not the poison, but the gun that delivered the bullet.
i was thinking that room reflections control were everything for soundstage Now i am not so sureVery interesting thinking... or not.
Horn speakers, electrostats and small baffel speakers can image very well too, that is what I'm thinking.
Because i understand that different speakers in a same room can have very different performance regarding soundstage creation.
Good evening Thank you very much I think i have made up my mind I will keep those boxes load with lead and follow your valuble advice painting the exposed leadLead is toxid, yes. If you powder it and eat a spoon full in the morning with orange juice you may run into problems. Lead left allone and handled correctly does nothing. If you fear for your life, cover it with paint. It has even been used in water installations for century's, which only in some special cases gave health problems. If you handle lead parts, wash your hands and don't put them into your mouth. Do not powder, burn or melt it.
I do not know your sources of wisdom and sure do not need to know them. Maybe someone who had been hit by a lead bullet lately told you so? In this case the cause for his health problems was not the poison, but the gun that delivered the bullet.
I will burn to ashes the 2aw75 😡 and i will look for a decent 6-8" cone to be used in a 2 way and mount it in the boxes.
Then i will do something like this ... on the cheap
https://usato.audiograffiti.com/public/img/annunci/20161018_084254_WSJ0SK.JPG
However above the box i could experiment different solution to cover the remaining part of the audio range (i.e. >2kHz)
The only things i love in the end are those boxes They weigh around 50lbs/each
They are also quite nice looking Fake wood finish
I like the 805 concept
Don't be tempted by trying to use most of the morel cone mids in a 2 way. The have lousy distortion characteristics in the low end, specifically high 3rd order HD. I dont know how they manage to make such nice dome mids and tweeters, yet screw up most of the MW series bass-mids. Its not like they're cheap either, so there's no excuse on their part.
8" 2 way?Good evening Thank you very much I think i have made up my mind I will keep those boxes load with lead and follow your valuble advice painting the exposed lead
I will burn to ashes the 2aw75 😡 and i will look for a decent 6-8" cone to be used in a 2 way and mount it in the boxes.
Then i will do something like this ... on the cheap
https://usato.audiograffiti.com/public/img/annunci/20161018_084254_WSJ0SK.JPG
However above the box i could experiment different solution to cover the remaining part of the audio range (i.e. >2kHz)
The only things i love in the end are those boxes They weigh around 50lbs/each
They are also quite nice looking Fake wood finish
I like the 805 concept
get a kit. do not attempt tp design your own speaker if you never did before.
Yes. Something like that to follow will avoid any frustration : http://www.audioexcite.com/?page_id=2386
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