Hey Skinny Boy,
You got that backward. Like in pro audio (PA) systems and guitar amps, the speakers are extremely efficient, that's why 40W of guitar amp sounds like 150W of home audio gear. The stiff cones are efficient and the extremely loose, (home audio) are not efficient at all but the frequency response is much wider. Only the audiophiles with big money can afford the efficient, wide bandwidth drivers. 🙂 I, however ain't one of them rich guys.
By the way, when you read the wall voltage, especially with a DVM, it reads R M S voltage. You all talk about peak and music power and also about hooking a speaker up to mains voltage? Well, it is RMS voltage you should calculate with so you can get R M S power, besides, RMS power specs are the true power that a speaker can handle anyway, so why even consider the other bogus specs?
Chris
You got that backward. Like in pro audio (PA) systems and guitar amps, the speakers are extremely efficient, that's why 40W of guitar amp sounds like 150W of home audio gear. The stiff cones are efficient and the extremely loose, (home audio) are not efficient at all but the frequency response is much wider. Only the audiophiles with big money can afford the efficient, wide bandwidth drivers. 🙂 I, however ain't one of them rich guys.
By the way, when you read the wall voltage, especially with a DVM, it reads R M S voltage. You all talk about peak and music power and also about hooking a speaker up to mains voltage? Well, it is RMS voltage you should calculate with so you can get R M S power, besides, RMS power specs are the true power that a speaker can handle anyway, so why even consider the other bogus specs?
Chris
"Well, it is RMS voltage you should calculate with so you can get R M S power"
"Heck Diode I know what you are trying to say but you have some of it wrong...read your post"
-missing power factor?
"Heck Diode I know what you are trying to say but you have some of it wrong...read your post"
-missing power factor?
I wasint being critical to Diode and I will explain what "I" think was not properly said tomorrow.....................its been a long day
DIRT®
DIRT®
just how loud does one of these speakers get when plugged
into the wall??? are we talking major racket??
not that i'd ever do something like that.
into the wall??? are we talking major racket??
not that i'd ever do something like that.
moe29 said:just how loud does one of these speakers get when plugged
into the wall??? are we talking major racket??
I should imagine a major racket, which lasts just as long as your mains fuse / breaker / voice coil / cone assembly / hearing stands up to the abuse.
Can't help noticing that no pictures from DJBassamp
about his miraculous california boom modification have
showed up yet...
about his miraculous california boom modification have
showed up yet...
What I was referring to was about RMS measurements...depending on the instrument in use and the frequency there is a variance...most meters are averaging...some will show peak amplitude at the same time...that factor has to be corrected given those results also into the equation......anyways this was not to be an argument from me just merely an explanation on my delayed statement to Diode 😎
Regards The DIRT®
Regards The DIRT®
Hey Dirt,
I know you weren't being critical. I was just wanting to hear how you thought I missed something. I didn't know that to be true as I use a fluke mod. 77 DMM and I know it to be true RMS. I have also seen many others over the years that claim the same so I guess I just thought it to be a standard. I see what you mean though.....
Question?
When it rains, does your name become mud?
Just kidding, just kidding!!!!
Thanks for the clarification.
Chris
I know you weren't being critical. I was just wanting to hear how you thought I missed something. I didn't know that to be true as I use a fluke mod. 77 DMM and I know it to be true RMS. I have also seen many others over the years that claim the same so I guess I just thought it to be a standard. I see what you mean though.....
Question?
When it rains, does your name become mud? Just kidding, just kidding!!!!
Thanks for the clarification.
Chris
hahaha...my name is mud all the time...LOL..always in trouble but always willing to listen...great people in the forum
Cheers to ya!!
DIRT®
Cheers to ya!!
DIRT®
tough cone or soft?
howdy ho
i would think that its quite dependant on the actual speaker as to whether a speaker with tougher suspension is louder than one with stiff suspension. my guitar amp *pushes speaker cone lightly* is pretty firm considering the speaker diameter and power ratings, and at 15 watts rms (guitar amp figure) it goes almost as good as my hifi which is off of a 70w RMS @ 4 ohm amp - at 8 ohms (sorry to confuse you, probably around 40 watts rms to speakers)
but that said, my cousin (sorry if i sound like a redneck) has hifi speakers with 10inch drivers (accurate power rating unknown) which are quite bassy, dont move much, but have the softest suspension ive ever felt. its mental, you tap it it moves a centimetre. again, there are some subs ive seen *cough - TonkinsCarAudio - cough* which get some hideous power rating put into them but Xmax at like 5 mm and sound like half that power rating.
I'm not an expert but i think it depends on the individual speaker, and the ear is more accurate than some of the stats factories claim.....
Do any of you know a cheapish way to make a good quality 240V mains amp that'd do 300w RMS x 2 @ 8ohms? this includes using car power amps if you can give me AC conversion ideas....
-Eli
howdy ho
i would think that its quite dependant on the actual speaker as to whether a speaker with tougher suspension is louder than one with stiff suspension. my guitar amp *pushes speaker cone lightly* is pretty firm considering the speaker diameter and power ratings, and at 15 watts rms (guitar amp figure) it goes almost as good as my hifi which is off of a 70w RMS @ 4 ohm amp - at 8 ohms (sorry to confuse you, probably around 40 watts rms to speakers)
but that said, my cousin (sorry if i sound like a redneck) has hifi speakers with 10inch drivers (accurate power rating unknown) which are quite bassy, dont move much, but have the softest suspension ive ever felt. its mental, you tap it it moves a centimetre. again, there are some subs ive seen *cough - TonkinsCarAudio - cough* which get some hideous power rating put into them but Xmax at like 5 mm and sound like half that power rating.
I'm not an expert but i think it depends on the individual speaker, and the ear is more accurate than some of the stats factories claim.....
Do any of you know a cheapish way to make a good quality 240V mains amp that'd do 300w RMS x 2 @ 8ohms? this includes using car power amps if you can give me AC conversion ideas....
-Eli
this amp amp is like the "1000W" and the "800W"
the same parts in !! no change..!!!! rrrrrrr
the same parts in !! no change..!!!! rrrrrrr
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Re-fuse the skeptics. De-fuse the truth.
I only saw "The A Class Design" which does not say Class A operation. I only saw "300W X 4 Ch" which does not mean RMS at 8 Ohms.
DJ: Show use the input fuse rating and you'll be showing the maximum practical allowable amount of energy the unit can turn into speaker signals. And that's at 100% efficiency. Anything else or its likely that nobody with any experience will believe you.
🙂ensen.
I only saw "The A Class Design" which does not say Class A operation. I only saw "300W X 4 Ch" which does not mean RMS at 8 Ohms.
DJ: Show use the input fuse rating and you'll be showing the maximum practical allowable amount of energy the unit can turn into speaker signals. And that's at 100% efficiency. Anything else or its likely that nobody with any experience will believe you.
🙂ensen.
No heatsinks. No vent holes.
1200 watts. Super Duper ultra maxx peak power.
Maybe just maybe 30 watts rms per channel.
Even that is a stretch.
1200 watts. Super Duper ultra maxx peak power.
Maybe just maybe 30 watts rms per channel.
Even that is a stretch.
DJ, If I understand that you want to modify a car amp to run sound reinforcement bass speakers and if you really want a lot of power from a good amplifier, find an old Soundcraftsmen or Crown amp. Actually, there are many NICE amplifiers designed for sound reinforcement that are very affordable on the used market. Check eBay, just make sure the seller will ship to your location and the amp will run on your AC mains. Stay away from Pyramid, Pyle, and anything that says "DJ" or "Pro DJ" because it's almost always junk and not worth the time it takes to look at the listing. Just remember if it is priced "Too good to be ture" it's a piece of rubbish! Check your local music stores first! I know you can buy something designed to do what you want for the same money you would have into modding a car amp and building a power supply. Yes, that takes the "fun" out of building it but it removes any doubt of failure at the same time.
eBay PA Amplifiers
Profile / California amplifiers RMS output is always about 50% of the boasted ratings screened on the case. (Tested many into non-inductive load with music as the test signal) It should be illegal for them to do so. However, with 16V battery, a 1KHz sinewave "burp" for 10 mS, into 1/2-ohm load(s), and IF lightning strikes the amplifier while being tested AND the amplifier lives long enough to get an output reading... It MIGHT output the rated power. California amps are OK (barely OK) for car audio as inexpensive and semi-clean power (in order of importance) but don't rely on the hype and remember there are much better choices for for 12V audio, let alone professional PA or DJ equipment.
Personally, I think you're asking for big trouble by modifying a 12V amp to do the work of a workhorse PA amplifier. Failures in the middle of a gig are not a good thing
I have posted this to be helpful so please don't take it as an attack! Post back and let us know what you find and how you like it ?
eBay PA Amplifiers
Profile / California amplifiers RMS output is always about 50% of the boasted ratings screened on the case. (Tested many into non-inductive load with music as the test signal) It should be illegal for them to do so. However, with 16V battery, a 1KHz sinewave "burp" for 10 mS, into 1/2-ohm load(s), and IF lightning strikes the amplifier while being tested AND the amplifier lives long enough to get an output reading... It MIGHT output the rated power. California amps are OK (barely OK) for car audio as inexpensive and semi-clean power (in order of importance) but don't rely on the hype and remember there are much better choices for for 12V audio, let alone professional PA or DJ equipment.
Personally, I think you're asking for big trouble by modifying a 12V amp to do the work of a workhorse PA amplifier. Failures in the middle of a gig are not a good thing
I have posted this to be helpful so please don't take it as an attack! Post back and let us know what you find and how you like it ?
Sound advice, iso. However, I can't help feeling a little deja vu...
http://www.diyvideo.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=144074#post144074
See ya,
Tim.
http://www.diyvideo.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=144074#post144074
See ya,
Tim.
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