Last year I put together 4 Nostromo speaker (Alpair 11MS) in the smaller of the three design sizes configured for amplifiers with relatively lower output impedance the the two larger configurations.
Two were sent to a nephew as a gift on completion of his bachelor's degree, and we kept two, which I have enjoyed very much. I decided to build another as a center channel for use with Schiit's newly released preamp, the SYN, which contains an active implementation of what first saw the light of day around 1970 as David Hafler's DynaQuad.
For this third Nostromo, I thougt I'd try a different approach to the chamfer on the back of the baffle around the driver. The cabs I built last year were chamfered with my router leaving bosses at the screw locations for the mounting screws to bite into. The ususal way of doing things.
This year, I cut out the fronts from my last chunk of 3/4" baltic birch, and then marked locations of the screws where I then drilled 1/2" holes from in the rebate area to the back.
The baffle is sitting on the back of the box, but is not attached. The sixth circle on the rebate is a router burn mark that cannot be felt, so will have no effect.
After that, I routed the chamfer all the way around the back, followed by gluing in five smooth dowels a bit more than 1" long.
I'll make sure the mounting surface is smooth for the gasket, drill the dowels for the mounting screws. The chamfer is about 7/16". I'll need another bit to get a deeper chamfer.
The result should let the driver breathe just a bit better, and I'll have longer screws biting into the wood over a greater length. That should allow more cycles should I want to remove the driver and replace it after making a modification or repair. I don't expect to hear a difference, or expect to have any "proof" of superior performance. Just thought it would be fun to do.
Skip
Two were sent to a nephew as a gift on completion of his bachelor's degree, and we kept two, which I have enjoyed very much. I decided to build another as a center channel for use with Schiit's newly released preamp, the SYN, which contains an active implementation of what first saw the light of day around 1970 as David Hafler's DynaQuad.
For this third Nostromo, I thougt I'd try a different approach to the chamfer on the back of the baffle around the driver. The cabs I built last year were chamfered with my router leaving bosses at the screw locations for the mounting screws to bite into. The ususal way of doing things.
This year, I cut out the fronts from my last chunk of 3/4" baltic birch, and then marked locations of the screws where I then drilled 1/2" holes from in the rebate area to the back.
The baffle is sitting on the back of the box, but is not attached. The sixth circle on the rebate is a router burn mark that cannot be felt, so will have no effect.
After that, I routed the chamfer all the way around the back, followed by gluing in five smooth dowels a bit more than 1" long.
I'll make sure the mounting surface is smooth for the gasket, drill the dowels for the mounting screws. The chamfer is about 7/16". I'll need another bit to get a deeper chamfer.
The result should let the driver breathe just a bit better, and I'll have longer screws biting into the wood over a greater length. That should allow more cycles should I want to remove the driver and replace it after making a modification or repair. I don't expect to hear a difference, or expect to have any "proof" of superior performance. Just thought it would be fun to do.
Skip
Slick! 
But too much work for me and was/am always short of time, so while I used T-nuts with nary a problem, FWIW today would use these inexpensive types appropriate for the app: https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+machine+screw+inserts&sca_esv=567173421&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS675US675&sxsrf=AM9HkKmyEd1Q0XbKk6BhmUrnUSEoPMqyTQ:1695274451559&ei=09ULZYTdIaTpptQPlsOx2AI&oq=wood+threaded+screw+in+for+machine+screws&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiKXdvb2QgdGhyZWFkZWQgc2NyZXcgaW4gZm9yIG1hY2hpbmUgc2NyZXdzKgIIADIFEAAYogQyBRAAGKIESKqcAVD8TViXe3ACeAGQAQCYAYABoAHtB6oBAzIuN7gBAcgBAPgBAcICChAAGEcY1gQYsAPCAgcQIxiwAhgnwgIEECEYCuIDBBgAIEGIBgGQBgg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
But too much work for me and was/am always short of time, so while I used T-nuts with nary a problem, FWIW today would use these inexpensive types appropriate for the app: https://www.google.com/search?q=wood+machine+screw+inserts&sca_esv=567173421&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS675US675&sxsrf=AM9HkKmyEd1Q0XbKk6BhmUrnUSEoPMqyTQ:1695274451559&ei=09ULZYTdIaTpptQPlsOx2AI&oq=wood+threaded+screw+in+for+machine+screws&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiKXdvb2QgdGhyZWFkZWQgc2NyZXcgaW4gZm9yIG1hY2hpbmUgc2NyZXdzKgIIADIFEAAYogQyBRAAGKIESKqcAVD8TViXe3ACeAGQAQCYAYABoAHtB6oBAzIuN7gBAcgBAPgBAcICChAAGEcY1gQYsAPCAgcQIxiwAhgnwgIEECEYCuIDBBgAIEGIBgGQBgg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp