I have a nice pair of Sansui floorstanding speakers here that I wish to convert from a 2-Way into a 3-Way.
The Sansui has dual 8" woofers in a tall box
I have a pair of the Hi-Vi TN28 given to me by rabbitz a while ago to top mount.
I intend to use the existing tweeter position in the top of the box to place a small midrange.
What I am looking for is a driver with an integrated can type assembly that will fit in the existing tweeter hole position,
I have a pair of Foster drivers here but they are 5.5" and too large.
Before I start mucking about with coffee cans and mounting from the rear does anybody know of an existing 100mm midrange with a can of about a litre or so that isn't your typical sealed back mid?
I don't know of any sealed back mid that sounds good crossed over as low as 400Hz, if you do I may be interested if you could post a link
The Sansui has dual 8" woofers in a tall box
I have a pair of the Hi-Vi TN28 given to me by rabbitz a while ago to top mount.
I intend to use the existing tweeter position in the top of the box to place a small midrange.
What I am looking for is a driver with an integrated can type assembly that will fit in the existing tweeter hole position,
I have a pair of Foster drivers here but they are 5.5" and too large.
Before I start mucking about with coffee cans and mounting from the rear does anybody know of an existing 100mm midrange with a can of about a litre or so that isn't your typical sealed back mid?
I don't know of any sealed back mid that sounds good crossed over as low as 400Hz, if you do I may be interested if you could post a link
So you want a closed back midrange that isn't a closed-back midrange??? 
Most are of the "pro" type are done with very small "enclosures".. in fact the only one I can think of that isn't like this (with a larger volume chamber) is the old Peerless 821615.
As for what you can actually find (today):
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/292-594--visaton-m10-spec-sheet.pdf
Alternatively,
-you could always look to cardboard tube for the enclosure, or perhaps make a 3-D print file and then send it off to a service to have it printed for you (assuming you don't have a 3D printer that is large enough), maybe some stacked plastic cups with foam insulation sealing around the driver you are interested it.

Most are of the "pro" type are done with very small "enclosures".. in fact the only one I can think of that isn't like this (with a larger volume chamber) is the old Peerless 821615.
As for what you can actually find (today):
https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/292-594--visaton-m10-spec-sheet.pdf
Alternatively,
-you could always look to cardboard tube for the enclosure, or perhaps make a 3-D print file and then send it off to a service to have it printed for you (assuming you don't have a 3D printer that is large enough), maybe some stacked plastic cups with foam insulation sealing around the driver you are interested it.

I'm not after a sealed back midrange; rather i am after an open back midrange with its own integral "Canister" type enclosure of around a half litre or so.
Like these Foster drivers in the attached pix
Like these Foster drivers in the attached pix
Attachments
BummerLast time I checked, Fostex was the only one still making them. 🙁
The two I have got attacked by rodents and waiting on a recone but being 5.5" they are too large.
I guess I'll have to do the coffee can thing again which means I have to drink two tins of Milo as fast as I can
Looking closely at the picture - I don't see anything "open back" about it, it's a sealed midrange though it does have a larger volume like the old Peerless rather than an abrupt "ending" near the spider (..maybe that's what you call "sealed-back"?).I'm not after a sealed back midrange; rather i am after an open back midrange with its own integral "Canister" type enclosure of around a half litre or so.
Like these Foster drivers in the attached pix
Anyway, good luck with the can's! 🙂
Tip: you might consider that "cup within a cup" design (or cup in a can) with some soft pure silicone caulk between (void-space) the two containers and as a seal around the driver for the can/cup contact (along with some adhesive).
Poor baby! 😉 Around here, thick glass jars or cheap cardboard cans with a metal bottom are far more available in a much wider size/shape
Here are pix of the back side of the driver to make it clear.
These were available on clearance at Jaycar when Plessey Australia went out of business.
96dB when crossed over and went with a 15" woofer in a 3-Way
I was hoping to find the 100mm version of these which are nominally 5" but need a 5.5" hole
If I could find some thick cardboard tubes of 110mm internal that would also work but I've been looking for weeks and found nothing suitable. Sewer pipe I think won't glue properly to the MDF of the box in question
These were available on clearance at Jaycar when Plessey Australia went out of business.
96dB when crossed over and went with a 15" woofer in a 3-Way
I was hoping to find the 100mm version of these which are nominally 5" but need a 5.5" hole
If I could find some thick cardboard tubes of 110mm internal that would also work but I've been looking for weeks and found nothing suitable. Sewer pipe I think won't glue properly to the MDF of the box in question
Attachments
It does on what's available here if you sand/whatever the surface finish off and personally used whatever epoxy I had laying around and assuming MDF here is the same it needs to be shellac'd/whatever to seal it for any kind of glue/adhesive that isn't sufficiently liquid to sink in.
JB Weld epoxy, once it cures (24 hours) is like steel-strong and permanent.
I love that stuff if I never want something to break loose.
I love that stuff if I never want something to break loose.
Yeah, have repaired many an automotive, etc., part, broken bike frames, you name it, but once I could get various types of glues, sealers that is quick set in a cardboard tube, what's left of the JB Weld is likely to wind up in someone else's toolbox after I'm gone.
I guess I'll be using PVC with end caps.
A shame that the Foster/Fostex and the Peerless are no longer available, they were a good option when your woodworking skills weren't up to making boxes within boxes
A shame that the Foster/Fostex and the Peerless are no longer available, they were a good option when your woodworking skills weren't up to making boxes within boxes
you might also consider (small?) sport cones as used here:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/post-5459693
that saves making the end cap and could even reduce resonances.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/10f-8424-rs225-8-fast-waw-ref-monitor.273524/post-5459693
that saves making the end cap and could even reduce resonances.
Dayton PC105 with 4L Jalna Yoghurt pots gooped onto the front baffle with silicon or Liquid Nails
(PC105s on special ATM)
(PC105s on special ATM)
I was going to use the last of my little Jaycar 4" drivers Pete but could be persuaded to try the small Dayton. Only have limited space and I can't fit a 4 litre bucketDayton PC105 with 4L Jalna Yoghurt pots gooped onto the front baffle with silicon or Liquid Nails
(PC105s on special ATM)
go the 2 litre Greek with the top lip cut off, just over 100mm- cheaper & just as tasty (I usually find that 2L well stuffed is OK for mid drivers)
The Eminence ISO-5 mid enclosure might work for you. Internal volume is less than 1L though, about 0.55L. Less complex than making something but at more expense.
That would work if it fitted the box, but as the 8" woofers are Peerless clones and mounted in the vertical orientation [ I must post pictures] the biggest driver i can physically fit are these 100mm units. Actual size 105mm Nominal driver size is 90mm
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