Which works wonders if you happen to have a cheap 15" long throw sub to go along with a regular 12" woofer. The drone sub might not need need any weight added but what it can do to the woofer if the excursion is not kept under control can be startling to the uninitiated.
It's all in what you're working with.
Wouldnt it be cool...
- If you could take an amplifier, put in a little output series resistance, monitor the signal across it, feed it back to the input through a band pass filter - and make its output impedance a function of frequency.
Do that with a class D amp with DSP; you could make your passive speaker's damping be a function of frequency. Tune it to how you like in software...
/Wouldnt it be cool...
- If you could take an amplifier, put in a little output series resistance, monitor the signal across it, feed it back to the input through a band pass filter - and make its output impedance a function of frequency.
Do that with a class D amp with DSP; you could make your passive speaker's damping be a function of frequency. Tune it to how you like in software...
/Wouldnt it be cool...
Passive radiator is like a pendulam swinging in free air. The heavier the pendulam more difficult to swing and more difficult to stop. The varing air pressure inside the box due to woofer movement controls the movement of the radiator. At resonance when the pressure in the box increases, then the radiator moves inword like the woofer (due to tuning of the radiator) and deepens the bass.
In case of a resistor dampened second woofer it acts like a pendulam immersed in water, allways damped. Cannot tune it to resonance. When woofer moves in to the box the damped second driver will moove out. No increase in bass. Just muddy bass will result.
In case of a resistor dampened second woofer it acts like a pendulam immersed in water, allways damped. Cannot tune it to resonance. When woofer moves in to the box the damped second driver will moove out. No increase in bass. Just muddy bass will result.
Once I had a cheap 3 way tower with MTM and a bass on the side. I didn't like the original sound, so I used the bass driver as a passive with the option to short or open the coil (it was already there and adding $2 of switch is easier than filling that space). Also had opened the "mid" chamber to run the 6.5" double woofers as full bass duty.
It sounded reasonable; maybe having 2x 6.5 inch woofers in the entire cabinet vs this larger cheapo bass driver in a sealed portion was better for them. Also modified the crossover.
It sounded reasonable; maybe having 2x 6.5 inch woofers in the entire cabinet vs this larger cheapo bass driver in a sealed portion was better for them. Also modified the crossover.