If and its a big if, i decide to upgrade the signal caps/resisitors in my amp could anyone tell me from the photo what ones are in the signal path,i think from memory the yellow caps are MKP . Large black ones are Kemet.
MKP just means a generic metallized polypropylene film capacitor, no particular brand.
If the electrolytics are less than 10 years old, I wouldn't replace those.
If the electrolytics are less than 10 years old, I wouldn't replace those.
thanks for your reply,i dont think they are far off the 10 year mark to be honest although i cant be sure.
I wouldn't bother with the caps yet. If you really want to change the resistors, it would be more interestingthanks for your reply,i dont think they are far off the 10 year mark to be honest although i cant be sure.
to do those now and hear the difference, without the complication of also changing capacitors at the same time.
Or else change the caps now, and wait on the resistors. Just don't do both at the same time.
It looks like a nice piece you have there. Technically, they're all in the signal path, but by appearances, you'd probably be best to just leave it as-is. Perhaps look at what's in front (driving) and behind (driven) your apparently fine tube power amplifier for sonic improvements.
thanks,yes leaving it alone is probably the best thing to do,i just wondered if by using better tolerance parts i'd gain a small improvment.It looks like a nice piece you have there. Technically, they're all in the signal path, but by appearances, you'd probably be best to just leave it as-is. Perhaps look at what's in front (driving) and behind (driven) your apparently fine tube power amplifier for sonic improvements.
Can you post the schematic? There could be a couple of particular resistors that would benefit from matching.thanks,yes leaving it alone is probably the best thing to do,i just wondered if by using better tolerance parts i'd gain a small improvment.
Probably not for the capacitors, though.
It looks like all of the critical resistors are already 1% types, and the capacitors appear to be decent quality. I would probably just leave it alone. I generally use teflon foil coupling capacitors in my designs, but they are extremely expensive and hard to justify from a measurement perspective.
yes that seems the generel advice ,ie leave it alone. in that case. i will.
thanks to all that replied.
thanks to all that replied.
Agree with rayma. If it's quite recent, then perhaps the only Electrolytics you may want to check are the Big PSU filter caps. They might still be good though. BTW, I've seen several people like Kemet caps.
It's a SET?
Enjoy it!
It's a SET?
Enjoy it!
Forget it.thanks,yes leaving it alone is probably the best thing to do,i just wondered if by using better tolerance parts i'd gain a small improvment.
Best to stop listening to other internet "kings" who are obsessed with some fantasy about superior purity.
They usually run other "believers" down a deep rat hole.
Jamie123, there is no such thing as signal path. That's oversimplification from japanese schematics.
http://lampizator.eu/HERESY/heresy.html
http://lampizator.eu/HERESY/heresy.html
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Quite true - technically everything is in the “signal path” including the power supply. Maybe with the exception of auxiliary loads such as the blue LED power indicator or the controls for a soft-start circuit. But if they generated noise it could still bleed into things as complete isolation is impossible.
Don’t crawl down any rabbit hole that you’re not willing to follow all the way to China. You can end up spending a fortune.
Don’t crawl down any rabbit hole that you’re not willing to follow all the way to China. You can end up spending a fortune.
I agree with those who said your device already appears to be of superior quality. No random parts rolling required at all.
Best regards!
Best regards!
It is not SET. It appears to be a push pull KT88 amp in Ultralinear configuration. There are two wires from each OPT to each output tube, the giveaway for UL. The octal twin triodes (6SN7's) are the LTP phase inverter, and the KT88's are the output tubes. The yellow caps near each KT88 socket are the coupling caps and the ones that most tweakers change. Can't tell much about the input stage. I am also of the opinion that it is best left alone since it looks well made, so at best minimal improvements could be made. The opportunity to make things worse is likely far greater than the possible improvements.It's a SET?
Enjoy it!
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