Hi everyone!
In short, I would like to ask the following: Is this schematic correct and possible (please see attachment)? Can it be improved? Or maybe some other comments?
My goal is to stabilize the voltage across the three consumers in the schematic excluding other consumers in the car (starter, headlights, etc).
Also, what kind of diode should I get so it operates normally in this circuit?
I'd like to make this upgrade because the CD/MP3 player restarts itself during engine ignition or when the volume of the player is increased beyond a certain level.
Please, help with some advice 🙂
Thanks
In short, I would like to ask the following: Is this schematic correct and possible (please see attachment)? Can it be improved? Or maybe some other comments?
My goal is to stabilize the voltage across the three consumers in the schematic excluding other consumers in the car (starter, headlights, etc).
Also, what kind of diode should I get so it operates normally in this circuit?
I'd like to make this upgrade because the CD/MP3 player restarts itself during engine ignition or when the volume of the player is increased beyond a certain level.
Please, help with some advice 🙂
Thanks
Attachments
It's probably impractical to do this for the amplifiers. Having only the head unit on it may be enough.
A schottky diode will operate at the lowest temperature because it will have the lowest voltage drop across it. The size of the diode will be dependent on the current consumption of the components it's supplying.
A schottky diode will operate at the lowest temperature because it will have the lowest voltage drop across it. The size of the diode will be dependent on the current consumption of the components it's supplying.
I had the same question when I started into car audio.
It became clear very quickly that a 100A diode would be massive and not very practical.
Not to mention you will need a giant heatsink to mount the diode to.
I would suggest not worrying about the diode and just put the cap as close as possible to the amplifiers.
The head unit won't draw enough to worry about if it's not actually driving speakers.
The cap will do it's job perfectly well without a diode.
Also beef up all of your grounds, especially your engine block to chassis and chassis to battery.
Make sure your grounds to the head unit and your amps go to chassis steel and not just body metal.
It became clear very quickly that a 100A diode would be massive and not very practical.
Not to mention you will need a giant heatsink to mount the diode to.
I would suggest not worrying about the diode and just put the cap as close as possible to the amplifiers.
The head unit won't draw enough to worry about if it's not actually driving speakers.
The cap will do it's job perfectly well without a diode.
Also beef up all of your grounds, especially your engine block to chassis and chassis to battery.
Make sure your grounds to the head unit and your amps go to chassis steel and not just body metal.
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As above. Diode is impracticable.
You have two issues.
Radio cuts out when you crank the motor.
Thats what its supposed to do.
Its called load shedding.
Radio cuts out under high volume.
You have power issues.
Before you go farting around with capacitors (band aids in my opinion).
You need to do some basic tests.
Is it the radio or the amplifiers that are turning off ?
What is the battery voltage when the radio cuts out ?
What is the voltage at the radio plug when it cuts out ?
What is the voltage at the Amplifiers when it cuts out ?
If the two voltages are not the same, you have a wiring problem.
If the two voltages are the same, look at how much power your drawing from the battery.
It could be a battery or alternator problem.
Does the radio cut out when the engine is running ?
Or does it only do it when the engine is off ?
How big is the battery ?
How old is the battery ?
You have two issues.
Radio cuts out when you crank the motor.
Thats what its supposed to do.
Its called load shedding.
Radio cuts out under high volume.
You have power issues.
Before you go farting around with capacitors (band aids in my opinion).
You need to do some basic tests.
Is it the radio or the amplifiers that are turning off ?
What is the battery voltage when the radio cuts out ?
What is the voltage at the radio plug when it cuts out ?
What is the voltage at the Amplifiers when it cuts out ?
If the two voltages are not the same, you have a wiring problem.
If the two voltages are the same, look at how much power your drawing from the battery.
It could be a battery or alternator problem.
Does the radio cut out when the engine is running ?
Or does it only do it when the engine is off ?
How big is the battery ?
How old is the battery ?
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Hi all,
Today I was able to measure some of the (I think) more important voltage drops, please see attached .zip file (which holds a .xlsx file). If some conclusions can be made based on this data, please bring it up 🙂
some notes:
- during the measurement only the player and the two speakers were active (no other consumers like amplifiers, headlights, heating, etc.);
- I last drove the car yesterday, and last night it was below zero degrees C, today it was -1.5 C;
- I found out that there was a faulty cabel connection in the power plug of the player which might be causing some issues and I will fix it;
- It is the player (radio) that turns off. There's no amplifier running during the test measurement.
- The player does not power off while engine is running - it only distorts beyond a certain volume level.
- Not sure how old the battery is; it should be sort of new. It is rated at 80Ah.
intentions:
- I won't be mounting a big diode as originally thought;
- I will put thicker power cables to the player - 4 sq.mm;
some questions:
- I am left with two capactiors (a total of 44,000 µF) and a small diode (6A). Should I wire them as in the wiring diagram or not?
- Is there any point having the 10A fuse as in the wiring diagram?
- Currently the ground is attached on the bolt for the seatbelt. I suppose I should find a thicker place to attach it?
- Should I buy a new battery?
Today I was able to measure some of the (I think) more important voltage drops, please see attached .zip file (which holds a .xlsx file). If some conclusions can be made based on this data, please bring it up 🙂
some notes:
- during the measurement only the player and the two speakers were active (no other consumers like amplifiers, headlights, heating, etc.);
- I last drove the car yesterday, and last night it was below zero degrees C, today it was -1.5 C;
- I found out that there was a faulty cabel connection in the power plug of the player which might be causing some issues and I will fix it;
- It is the player (radio) that turns off. There's no amplifier running during the test measurement.
- The player does not power off while engine is running - it only distorts beyond a certain volume level.
- Not sure how old the battery is; it should be sort of new. It is rated at 80Ah.
intentions:
- I won't be mounting a big diode as originally thought;
- I will put thicker power cables to the player - 4 sq.mm;
some questions:
- I am left with two capactiors (a total of 44,000 µF) and a small diode (6A). Should I wire them as in the wiring diagram or not?
- Is there any point having the 10A fuse as in the wiring diagram?
- Currently the ground is attached on the bolt for the seatbelt. I suppose I should find a thicker place to attach it?
- Should I buy a new battery?
Attachments
Before you buy or add anything, you should repair all known problems (broken/defective cable...).
You should charge your battery and then have it checked. Here, you can have it checked by many of the auto parts retailers that sell batteries. Only replace it if it fails the test.
You should charge your battery and then have it checked. Here, you can have it checked by many of the auto parts retailers that sell batteries. Only replace it if it fails the test.
Wow.
You really went all out for the measurements.
Well done.
It all looks ok.
Rest and cranking voltages look ok.
You have approximately 0.4 voltage drop in the wiring, nothing to worry about too much.
Radio cuts of at around 10.7v, thats normal. its a built in 'battery saver' sorta deal.
All headunits and amplifiers do this.
"- The player does not power off while engine is running
So thats means your one of your problems is answered. There is no fault.
- it only distorts beyond a certain volume level."
Theres your issue.
Distortion is (normally) a sign that its being turned up higher than it can handle.
Some head units are so poorly designed that they do indeed distort at higher levels.
This is where you need to start learning.
Now we need to know just what the equipment in the car is.
some questions:
- I am left with two capactiors (a total of 44,000 µF) and a small diode (6A). Should I wire them as in the wiring diagram or not?
The diode 'wastes' 0.7 of a volt.
Why the h are you still mucking around with a diode.
You do not need or even want a diode anywhere in the system.
Also, loose the capacitors. they are doing less than nothing for you.
Another waste of time and money.
- Is there any point having the 10A fuse as in the wiring diagram?
The fuse is there to protect the wiring in case of a short or major fault.
Yes, keep the fuse.
- Currently the ground is attached on the bolt for the seatbelt. I suppose I should find a thicker place to attach it?
Depends on the seat belt bolt type.
Most cars will have an 'earth' point under the dash od kick panels where they earth the cars other electrics.
- Should I buy a new battery?
Going by your voltage readings, I'd say the battery is fine.
Edit.
I'd also get rid of the 1uF capacitor.
And I'd also reduce the main fuse from 60Amps down to 40Amps.
I bet if you did a current draw test on the power line you'd never even see a 30Amp draw.
You really went all out for the measurements.
Well done.
It all looks ok.
Rest and cranking voltages look ok.
You have approximately 0.4 voltage drop in the wiring, nothing to worry about too much.
Radio cuts of at around 10.7v, thats normal. its a built in 'battery saver' sorta deal.
All headunits and amplifiers do this.
"- The player does not power off while engine is running
So thats means your one of your problems is answered. There is no fault.
- it only distorts beyond a certain volume level."
Theres your issue.
Distortion is (normally) a sign that its being turned up higher than it can handle.
Some head units are so poorly designed that they do indeed distort at higher levels.
This is where you need to start learning.
Now we need to know just what the equipment in the car is.
some questions:
- I am left with two capactiors (a total of 44,000 µF) and a small diode (6A). Should I wire them as in the wiring diagram or not?
The diode 'wastes' 0.7 of a volt.
Why the h are you still mucking around with a diode.
You do not need or even want a diode anywhere in the system.
Also, loose the capacitors. they are doing less than nothing for you.
Another waste of time and money.
- Is there any point having the 10A fuse as in the wiring diagram?
The fuse is there to protect the wiring in case of a short or major fault.
Yes, keep the fuse.
- Currently the ground is attached on the bolt for the seatbelt. I suppose I should find a thicker place to attach it?
Depends on the seat belt bolt type.
Most cars will have an 'earth' point under the dash od kick panels where they earth the cars other electrics.
- Should I buy a new battery?
Going by your voltage readings, I'd say the battery is fine.
Edit.
I'd also get rid of the 1uF capacitor.
And I'd also reduce the main fuse from 60Amps down to 40Amps.
I bet if you did a current draw test on the power line you'd never even see a 30Amp draw.
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Thank you very much, all! You helped me with really useful info and I will take the advices 🙂 I am looking forward to having some spare time to do the upgrade, just don't know when. Maybe I'll post an update.
Regards 🙂
Regards 🙂
I hope it helps.
And I really hope you do post an update.
If for no other reason than the info here might help someone else.....
And I really hope you do post an update.
If for no other reason than the info here might help someone else.....
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