Wow, the picture posted OK.
The 'towers' actually comprise 2 separate boxes. One is the bass box and the other is mids & tops.
The bass box is a sealed 80 liter enclosure with a 'front firing' 12" driver and also a 'rear firing' 15" sub.
The rear 15" is only partially electrically driven, creating what I call : "An actively assisted passive radiator".
( it also couples 'acoustically' with the 12" front woofer via thick 1cm felt > in a way, you could call the box vented )
The top box, housing 6x 5.5" mid drivers & *3x tweeters is open baffle with 'slight sides & top'.
This top box has 'all panel damping' plus one rear firing horn tweeter. It also has a bottom concrete slab for stability.
I will post some measurements soon.
The 'towers' actually comprise 2 separate boxes. One is the bass box and the other is mids & tops.
The bass box is a sealed 80 liter enclosure with a 'front firing' 12" driver and also a 'rear firing' 15" sub.
The rear 15" is only partially electrically driven, creating what I call : "An actively assisted passive radiator".
( it also couples 'acoustically' with the 12" front woofer via thick 1cm felt > in a way, you could call the box vented )
The top box, housing 6x 5.5" mid drivers & *3x tweeters is open baffle with 'slight sides & top'.
This top box has 'all panel damping' plus one rear firing horn tweeter. It also has a bottom concrete slab for stability.
I will post some measurements soon.
YES!
But the Philips tweeters are in series, with the lower one having its 'dispersion cover' removed.
The Vifa receives full power connection, giving the 'tweeter assembly' a nominal 6 ohms load.
The tweeters are actually mounted 'staggered' in a maximum overlap fashion.
( it is the sound of this that has made me state > "Sometimes comb-filtering sounds good" )
Here is another speaker project I built 'by ear'. For obvious reasons, I call them "The horny boxes".
I thought the story of how they came to fruition might be of interest to some readers.
When I spotted the CW2196 8" woofers in my Jaycar catalogue, I thought what a bargain with those specs.
I thought - I must have a pair of them, and I can dig out those old dusty 18 liter boxes that have just been waiting.
Installing & listening to woofers alone, it became apparent they had wonderfully smooth sound & natural roll-off.
I decided that for this project I would run the woofers with no crossover components at all > direct to amplifier.
Now for top-end, I still had in storage two old Tandy metal horns I bought in 1980. (will they fit?) YES - JUST.
Knowing these horns (so called tweeters) dived in output around 13Khz , I could also dig-out an old pair of generic Piezos.
Now I faced the real challenge of taming the 'Honky-Tonky-Horny' sound of the metal horns lower frequencies & resonance.
In keeping with the theme of using existing parts, I had a pair of fairly small .38mH coils, putting me in the 'ball-park' of 3.5Khz.
Now I could use the attenuation resistors values + capacitor values to fine-tune the woofer to horn crossover. Piezo drive comes last.
Through this process, I didn't care what the impedance might be, I was only dealing with the sound. I was becoming quite impressed.
The Piezo drive proved to be very simple comprising 1x cap. 1x resistor and 1x 680uH to make it 'sing'.
A funny thing happened in fitting the metal horns, being that I had to cut a rear hole to accommodate their depth > Hence tuning the box.
A final point is that I found the right quantity of soft/fluffy internal damping greatly improved the bass sound.
I thought the story of how they came to fruition might be of interest to some readers.
When I spotted the CW2196 8" woofers in my Jaycar catalogue, I thought what a bargain with those specs.
I thought - I must have a pair of them, and I can dig out those old dusty 18 liter boxes that have just been waiting.
Installing & listening to woofers alone, it became apparent they had wonderfully smooth sound & natural roll-off.
I decided that for this project I would run the woofers with no crossover components at all > direct to amplifier.
Now for top-end, I still had in storage two old Tandy metal horns I bought in 1980. (will they fit?) YES - JUST.
Knowing these horns (so called tweeters) dived in output around 13Khz , I could also dig-out an old pair of generic Piezos.
Now I faced the real challenge of taming the 'Honky-Tonky-Horny' sound of the metal horns lower frequencies & resonance.
In keeping with the theme of using existing parts, I had a pair of fairly small .38mH coils, putting me in the 'ball-park' of 3.5Khz.
Now I could use the attenuation resistors values + capacitor values to fine-tune the woofer to horn crossover. Piezo drive comes last.
Through this process, I didn't care what the impedance might be, I was only dealing with the sound. I was becoming quite impressed.
The Piezo drive proved to be very simple comprising 1x cap. 1x resistor and 1x 680uH to make it 'sing'.
A funny thing happened in fitting the metal horns, being that I had to cut a rear hole to accommodate their depth > Hence tuning the box.
A final point is that I found the right quantity of soft/fluffy internal damping greatly improved the bass sound.
