The new idea is building on using two normal halogenbulbs 100-150W 12Volt. I have found a way to put them close together, so you get a pointsource. A normal 100W bulb has a lift of 3000h and puts out 2200 lm. If you run that bulb on 15.6Volt, you will get around 6000 lm, but the lift of the bulb will only get 90h-180h. I use two of them, then I got 12000 lm. If you do the same with 150W bulb you get 19000lm. Two 100W cost around $2. The best part with this solution is that the color temp increase till around 3450 K, it is really whitelight. How do I get 15.6 Volt ? Well , just buy a normal electronic transformer for Halogenlight 150W, put a few more turns on the output transformer. See the picture. I am running this in my projector and it works very well, no problem with two lightsources, but you must mount them like I do, otherwise it will not work. This is a solution for those who don´t want to begin with HID-bulbs.
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Maybe you could cool it by putting it under watter... Im kidding, really! lol. When people post new ideas its good, when they actually try them first, thats better! That looks nice, though im still wondering about the results. How does it work overlapping the bulbs like that? Do you have fairly even spread of the light when a fresnel is used? What is the heat situation... you are kind of "underclocking" them in a sence right?
Phil
Phil
Nice. Overlclocking i think is what he's doing.
I'm wondering how you kow that the color temperature increases?
I'm wondering how you kow that the color temperature increases?
MMMMMMMMM ICECREAM... What kind of ice cream do you think that scoop was used on?
God im oozing with good input. But seriously your a genious i would have never thought of that, and even if i did, i wouldnt know how to pull it off.
God im oozing with good input. But seriously your a genious i would have never thought of that, and even if i did, i wouldnt know how to pull it off.
hmm...
You posted a pic of your lighting setup, can you post a pic of your image, and tell us which LCD you are using?
19,000 inital lumens doesn't seem like that much, maybe your design is more efficient?
One thing I noticed with that setup is that your lights are way outside the ice cream scoop. Wouldn't that mean that alot of light is being wasted out the sides? Dont you want to basically bury the light(s) in the reflector (when looking at the setup from the side)?
You posted a pic of your lighting setup, can you post a pic of your image, and tell us which LCD you are using?
19,000 inital lumens doesn't seem like that much, maybe your design is more efficient?
One thing I noticed with that setup is that your lights are way outside the ice cream scoop. Wouldn't that mean that alot of light is being wasted out the sides? Dont you want to basically bury the light(s) in the reflector (when looking at the setup from the side)?
Yes it´s a icecreamscoop. I´m using two 100W bulbs, when you run them on 15.6Volt you get 145W * 2, So you don´t get more heat than a normal 300W bulb. But you get 3 times more light. How this work, you can see on bulb manifactors homepage, www.gilway.com, www.philips.com
The bulb must be in the radius of the reflector thats why it´s more outside than in a normal light design, all OHP-works this way.
I will post a picture on the image, then i have changed my broken condeserlens.
The bulb must be in the radius of the reflector thats why it´s more outside than in a normal light design, all OHP-works this way.
I will post a picture on the image, then i have changed my broken condeserlens.
The dark strips in the picture is the broken condenserlens, it´s in 3 parts now........ I will buy a new tomorrow.
yup looks just like my old double light source project... except mine was WAYY darker.
any ways what kinda LCD are u using?
any ways what kinda LCD are u using?
The lcdpanel I´m using is a 15" Philips 150P. I´m projecting the picture on an old slideprojection screen, that´s why it´s a little crumpled. Bought a new condenserlens today and two more 100W bulbs, so I can replace the old ones when they have burned out. Found out that the new 100W bulbs have a lifetime of 4000h and puts out 2400 lm.
If you run them in my setup you got 14400 lm, a 150W HID bulb give 13000 lm. If you dare to run the bulbs on 16.8V, you get 19200 lm, just for $2, a 250W HID bulb gives 20000lm, but costs very very much more.
My setup is not opptimized yet, thats why it´s little dark in the edges.
If you run them in my setup you got 14400 lm, a 150W HID bulb give 13000 lm. If you dare to run the bulbs on 16.8V, you get 19200 lm, just for $2, a 250W HID bulb gives 20000lm, but costs very very much more.
My setup is not opptimized yet, thats why it´s little dark in the edges.
In my country Sweden, you can buy this bulbs in two-pack. I have found my bulbs in a hobbyelectronicstore, but I know other shops that take $2/bulb.....
Have done some update on my project, And found out that my new light design is the final solution for me. Becourse I couldn´t find a condeserlens that could take so much heat, 300W. So I did a new design with a cheap 60 degrees coollighthalogen bulb. I cuted the bulb and replaced the 50W bulb in the middle with the two 100W bulbs, which I run on 16V. The result is amasing. With the coollightreflector design, almost all heat is going backwards. And with this type of setup I use almost 100% of the light. And the best part is that I don´t need to cool down the lcd, just a fan that cools the bulb. You all should try this setup. And you can replace my 100W bulbs with a small 150-250W HID.
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That looks interesting
Can you post some pictures of your screen with your new setup?
How much did this whole new lighting setup cost you to build?
Can you tell us who makes those bulbs?
Can you post some pictures of your screen with your new setup?
How much did this whole new lighting setup cost you to build?
Can you tell us who makes those bulbs?
A little explaining how to do the coollight setup.
1. You need a 60 degrees coollight halogen bulb, Osram or Philips 20-50W, it can be a bit tricky to find it, but ask your local lampshop, I did.
2. A glasscuter, this one I can use with my drillmashine.
3. Cut the backside of the bulb, so you get a hole as big as your bulb, but be carefull, It will not work if the hole is too big.
4. Smash the frontglass, so you can put in the new bulbs from the frontside. Be carefull, the broken glasspieces are very sharp.
5. Then you just have to buy some angelsteel and put it togheter in the way I did on the picture abowe.
1. You need a 60 degrees coollight halogen bulb, Osram or Philips 20-50W, it can be a bit tricky to find it, but ask your local lampshop, I did.
2. A glasscuter, this one I can use with my drillmashine.
3. Cut the backside of the bulb, so you get a hole as big as your bulb, but be carefull, It will not work if the hole is too big.
4. Smash the frontglass, so you can put in the new bulbs from the frontside. Be carefull, the broken glasspieces are very sharp.
5. Then you just have to buy some angelsteel and put it togheter in the way I did on the picture abowe.
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How much this setup costs depends on what you use, and how good you are at electronics.
My lightsetup costs:
1. Osram Halogenbulb 20W 60 degrees coollight $6.
2. Electronictransformer for halogenlight 12V 120W $26 * 2 = $52, On this one you need to modify the cooling to the transistors, a current limit resistance and put more turns on the output transformer, so it can handle 150W. Modified to 16V.
3. 100W 12V Halogenbulbs, Philips Capsuleline Pro , 4000h $1.6 * 2 = $3.2.
Total cost = $61.2 US.
more simple:
1. Osram Halogenbulb 20W 60 degrees coollight $6.
2. Electronictransformer for halogenlight 12V 150W $35 * 2 = $70, On this one you just need to modify the output transformer, so you get 16V.
3. 100W 12V Halogenbulbs, Philips Capsuleline Pro , 4000h $1.6 * 2 = $3.2.
Total cost = $79.2 US.
All costs are for new parts, and no old crapp from Ebay.
To get 16V, you need to count the turns on your output transformer, if there are 7 turns, you get 11.5/7 = 1.64 V/turns. To get 16 Volt then you need 10 * 1.64 = 16.4 Volt = 10 turns.
If you want a cheaper solution you can buy a 400W 36V transformer, and use more expensive 400W/36V Ohp-bulbs, but they will only last for 50h and puts out more heat.
My lightsetup costs:
1. Osram Halogenbulb 20W 60 degrees coollight $6.
2. Electronictransformer for halogenlight 12V 120W $26 * 2 = $52, On this one you need to modify the cooling to the transistors, a current limit resistance and put more turns on the output transformer, so it can handle 150W. Modified to 16V.
3. 100W 12V Halogenbulbs, Philips Capsuleline Pro , 4000h $1.6 * 2 = $3.2.
Total cost = $61.2 US.
more simple:
1. Osram Halogenbulb 20W 60 degrees coollight $6.
2. Electronictransformer for halogenlight 12V 150W $35 * 2 = $70, On this one you just need to modify the output transformer, so you get 16V.
3. 100W 12V Halogenbulbs, Philips Capsuleline Pro , 4000h $1.6 * 2 = $3.2.
Total cost = $79.2 US.
All costs are for new parts, and no old crapp from Ebay.
To get 16V, you need to count the turns on your output transformer, if there are 7 turns, you get 11.5/7 = 1.64 V/turns. To get 16 Volt then you need 10 * 1.64 = 16.4 Volt = 10 turns.
If you want a cheaper solution you can buy a 400W 36V transformer, and use more expensive 400W/36V Ohp-bulbs, but they will only last for 50h and puts out more heat.
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