First time using Xsim.
Bookshelf = Woofer (60W) + Tweeter (25W). (ignore Sony label)
Sub = 2 x 120W (philips SW8100P/37 - ordinary and very cheap)
Weird LC values...but the final response seems (reasonably) flat.
EDIT : I'm doing a 3-way passive filter now (for the sake of completeness)
Files :
ZMA and FRD files
Crossover :
Freq Response (Woofer / Tweeter / Sub) :
Bookshelf = Woofer (60W) + Tweeter (25W). (ignore Sony label)
Sub = 2 x 120W (philips SW8100P/37 - ordinary and very cheap)
Weird LC values...but the final response seems (reasonably) flat.
EDIT : I'm doing a 3-way passive filter now (for the sake of completeness)
Files :
ZMA and FRD files
Crossover :
Freq Response (Woofer / Tweeter / Sub) :
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Hi, couple of initial thoughts. I've not yet D/L'd your frd & zma files; will have a play with them later.
1: You'll probably get the attention of more people who might help in the Multiway speakers section, I've pinged the mod's to see if they'd mind moving your post there.
2: Your overall impedance is probably too low - very few amps will be happy driving 2.5Ω across that much of the low mids (especially if you want this speaker to be useable standalone, without the bass section you mentioned) - it will be worth reworking your schematic to raise that.
2b: It's normal to make sure that the series element of a filter comes before the shunt, as this helps stabilise impedance somewhat - in your HPF you have these the other way round. Getting C2 upstream of the L3R5 pair will probably help with point 2.
3: You have nearly 10dB rise from ~1.6kHz up to ~4kHz - that'll almost certainly stand out and make this an unpleasant speaker to listen to - effort to flatten that would be worthwhile.
4: Have you accounted for bafflestep and cabinet edge diffraction? If not, it'd be worth reading up on those and simulating them too - I don't know if Boxsim can do that natively or not, VituixCAD can which will be what I use if I feel I can offer any improvements once I play with your files.
Cheers,
David.
1: You'll probably get the attention of more people who might help in the Multiway speakers section, I've pinged the mod's to see if they'd mind moving your post there.
2: Your overall impedance is probably too low - very few amps will be happy driving 2.5Ω across that much of the low mids (especially if you want this speaker to be useable standalone, without the bass section you mentioned) - it will be worth reworking your schematic to raise that.
2b: It's normal to make sure that the series element of a filter comes before the shunt, as this helps stabilise impedance somewhat - in your HPF you have these the other way round. Getting C2 upstream of the L3R5 pair will probably help with point 2.
3: You have nearly 10dB rise from ~1.6kHz up to ~4kHz - that'll almost certainly stand out and make this an unpleasant speaker to listen to - effort to flatten that would be worthwhile.
4: Have you accounted for bafflestep and cabinet edge diffraction? If not, it'd be worth reading up on those and simulating them too - I don't know if Boxsim can do that natively or not, VituixCAD can which will be what I use if I feel I can offer any improvements once I play with your files.
Cheers,
David.
Right, have had a look at the files, so a few thoughts.
1: Baflestep/diffraction - I see now that you haven't accounted for these, so unless you're planning on building the speakers flush into a wall, the nominal frequency responses from the manufacturers won't be representative.
As I said, VituixCAD can simulate this, not sure if Boxsim can. Can you tell us what size your cabinet will be, including the driver positions on the baffle, and where it will be positioned (ie freestanding/standmounted/ on a table/actually on a bookshelf backed right up to the wall please?
2: I see now that the L3R5 pair is impedance compensation to flatten the woofer's impedance peak. The vast majority of solid state amps won't need this, and if your amp is sensitive enough to need it, it may also have real problems with the resulting 2.5Ω impedance as I already said.
3: Crossover point. You haven't let us know what the midwoofer actually is, so we have no way of knowing if your ~5kHz crossover point is the best for this combination of drivers or not. That's because things like the driver size affect the off-axis response, which in turn can influence the optimum crossover point, so please can we have the make/model for that?
Look forward to hearing back from you,
D.
1: Baflestep/diffraction - I see now that you haven't accounted for these, so unless you're planning on building the speakers flush into a wall, the nominal frequency responses from the manufacturers won't be representative.
As I said, VituixCAD can simulate this, not sure if Boxsim can. Can you tell us what size your cabinet will be, including the driver positions on the baffle, and where it will be positioned (ie freestanding/standmounted/ on a table/actually on a bookshelf backed right up to the wall please?
2: I see now that the L3R5 pair is impedance compensation to flatten the woofer's impedance peak. The vast majority of solid state amps won't need this, and if your amp is sensitive enough to need it, it may also have real problems with the resulting 2.5Ω impedance as I already said.
3: Crossover point. You haven't let us know what the midwoofer actually is, so we have no way of knowing if your ~5kHz crossover point is the best for this combination of drivers or not. That's because things like the driver size affect the off-axis response, which in turn can influence the optimum crossover point, so please can we have the make/model for that?
Look forward to hearing back from you,
D.
Thank you very much for your support !
- He..he...I know about electrical circuits...but nothing about acoustic. (Bafflestep ??? What ???)
- The bookshelves are...pretty ordinary. I just bought the boxes...some reasonable drivers from Aliexpress...and BANG !!! (picture in the open page)
- The Subs came from an old sound bar / home theater...a little crappy I know, but I don't care so much about sub-bass freqs (picture from internet). They are now Passive Subs (since the amp was damaged).
- I changed the crossover circuit a little bit, after your comments. It's a 3-way passive now. Just to make things easier. Added an approximated freq response for those subs (as I said...only for the sake of completeness).
- For now, I have just one Amp at hand : this one
- There will be a post equalization (using PC-Equalizer...since PC is the source of all my music). There is a small DAC in between.
- I enjoy music using headphones (AKG K371 for commuting ... and Sennheiser HD560S for home listening...along with some Hifi portable players or Headphones Amps)...this is the first time I'm giving attention to full sized speakers. In my ignorance, I thought I could use the Harman curve also for speakers.
- He..he...I know about electrical circuits...but nothing about acoustic. (Bafflestep ??? What ???)
- The bookshelves are...pretty ordinary. I just bought the boxes...some reasonable drivers from Aliexpress...and BANG !!! (picture in the open page)
- The Subs came from an old sound bar / home theater...a little crappy I know, but I don't care so much about sub-bass freqs (picture from internet). They are now Passive Subs (since the amp was damaged).
- I changed the crossover circuit a little bit, after your comments. It's a 3-way passive now. Just to make things easier. Added an approximated freq response for those subs (as I said...only for the sake of completeness).
- For now, I have just one Amp at hand : this one
- There will be a post equalization (using PC-Equalizer...since PC is the source of all my music). There is a small DAC in between.
- I enjoy music using headphones (AKG K371 for commuting ... and Sennheiser HD560S for home listening...along with some Hifi portable players or Headphones Amps)...this is the first time I'm giving attention to full sized speakers. In my ignorance, I thought I could use the Harman curve also for speakers.
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[I like what you did with your first post putting the images inside spoilers, that worked well. Unfortunately after the last edit I can't see the pictures any more. I'm guessing you still can because they are cached on your computer.. ]
Your boxes can't get 'behind' your lower midrange and bass because they are too small. It spreads out (unless you are putting these speakers on a shelf with books all around them?) The treble will be louder.
Either try to make your Xsim response look like this, or use your equaliser to do the same and you will be OK... Some will instead modify their frd files to include this effect. Even that won't be necessary if you measure instead.
PICTURES FIXED.
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About frequency response...well...I've tested few cellphones and tablets using a full-range driver and a signal generator...and I got one pretty linear and wide range. So I'm using a free App called "Advanced Spectrum Analyzer" for equalizing. Far from being a professional solution, but pretty decent.
As I said, this is my first incursion into the full-sized speakers world...accuracy is not mandatory right now. (maybe I take a liking to that and get more professional solutions).