Good morning everyone, thx for the concern. I slept at 2 something yesterday, so I woke up late today. Anyway I knew you guys will not understand for the typing ( cuz I just type it right after I found out those things. 1 finger per my dirty hand.... hehe). Let me make a summery here:
I followed the two bridge connection graph which posted by nuuk
[testing]
1.My rail is about +/-37.9-38V DC out (Way too high)
2.Fast Blow 3A fuse won't blow on this
3.I'm testing two lights (12k resistor in series) by using the "testing wire" connect it to -/0v/+, and the fuse won't blow.
Light a: (+)---(0V), (-)-----12k------(-)rail. [Light on]
Light b: (+)----(+)rail, (-)-------12k------(0V). [Light on]
[fuse start to blow]
4. I think it is ok, then I start connecting the amp's +/0V/- to the bridge.
2 amps: 2 (+) join together - (+) rail
2 (- ) join together - (- ) rail
2 (0v) join together - (0V)
2 lights : light number 3 a&b setting.
5. 3A fuse start to blow even the slow blow type. ( should I go higher or not?)
[trouble shooting]
6. I closed the light and check what's happen while I burn the fuse, and I found out one of the bridge will flash while the fuse blow. It is always that one and only that side of the light on after the first fuse blow. ( the other side of the light never on after the first fuse blow.)
7. I unscrew the diodes, and I tested it by a muti meter. I found out the "flashing" bridge only "K" side have connect to the "heat sink part, the part with a screw hole on it", and A is dead. The second bridge had 2 diodes act the same and two remain full connecting between "K"A"Heat sink"
8. On my picture 4 on the website, should the middle part of the circut have connection to each other?
I think that's all I wanted to ask. plz help this poor little newbie....................
I followed the two bridge connection graph which posted by nuuk
[testing]
1.My rail is about +/-37.9-38V DC out (Way too high)
2.Fast Blow 3A fuse won't blow on this
3.I'm testing two lights (12k resistor in series) by using the "testing wire" connect it to -/0v/+, and the fuse won't blow.
Light a: (+)---(0V), (-)-----12k------(-)rail. [Light on]
Light b: (+)----(+)rail, (-)-------12k------(0V). [Light on]
[fuse start to blow]
4. I think it is ok, then I start connecting the amp's +/0V/- to the bridge.
2 amps: 2 (+) join together - (+) rail
2 (- ) join together - (- ) rail
2 (0v) join together - (0V)
2 lights : light number 3 a&b setting.
5. 3A fuse start to blow even the slow blow type. ( should I go higher or not?)
[trouble shooting]
6. I closed the light and check what's happen while I burn the fuse, and I found out one of the bridge will flash while the fuse blow. It is always that one and only that side of the light on after the first fuse blow. ( the other side of the light never on after the first fuse blow.)
7. I unscrew the diodes, and I tested it by a muti meter. I found out the "flashing" bridge only "K" side have connect to the "heat sink part, the part with a screw hole on it", and A is dead. The second bridge had 2 diodes act the same and two remain full connecting between "K"A"Heat sink"
8. On my picture 4 on the website, should the middle part of the circut have connection to each other?
I think that's all I wanted to ask. plz help this poor little newbie....................
Solomon, we need to know if your rectifier diodes are mounted on a heatsink. It sounds like you have a short somewhere or possibly something too close so that you are getting some arcing.
Mains primary fuse should be the T type, not fast blow.
But please tell us about the rectifier bridges. Let's see if we can sort this out before you head off to Kowloon or wherever you live in HK!
Mains primary fuse should be the T type, not fast blow.
But please tell us about the rectifier bridges. Let's see if we can sort this out before you head off to Kowloon or wherever you live in HK!
ok, fisrt my case is like the metal used to build PC case. there are many holes on the case up cover side. I screwed only one diode on the holes to hold up the enitre bridge board. and the one paralled right next to it wasn't screwed, it just touches the non-conductive case surface. The other 2 diodes were left in the air.
Solomon, nobody else has answered you because they have all died of shock 
You have bolted a diode to the metal case!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is probably your problem. Just build the rectifier bridges and don't worry about heatsinking them. If you need to fix the bridges somewhere do so without letting any of the metal parts make contact with any other conductive material. None of the diodes should touch each other either. They should only be joined by their legs as shown on my site.
You have bolted a diode to the metal case!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is probably your problem. Just build the rectifier bridges and don't worry about heatsinking them. If you need to fix the bridges somewhere do so without letting any of the metal parts make contact with any other conductive material. None of the diodes should touch each other either. They should only be joined by their legs as shown on my site.
Hi Solomon, I'm not sure when/where you will read this but I think that it is a good thing for you to get back to Hong Kong after causing that power cut in the States
Well, you could try testing the diodes if you have a tester. If not, then play safe and replace them all. Always remember that safety comes first in this game!
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