ok great! and regular speaker wire is fine? should i try to get thicker wire or anything?
I found this stuff today...
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag | Parts-Express.com
Some reviews say its good... is that recommended to use?
Acousta-Stuf Polyfill 1 lb. Bag | Parts-Express.com
Some reviews say its good... is that recommended to use?
For subs I generally wire with 12 gauge speaker wire, the smallest size I would recommend would be 16 gauge speaker wire.
btw - Stuffing has a very minimal effect within a sealed or ported sub enclosure since only LF are involved and stuffing really is used to control mid and HF. Use it if you wish, it won't harm anything, just make sure that the stuffing can't come into contact with the rear surface of the driver cone
btw - Stuffing has a very minimal effect within a sealed or ported sub enclosure since only LF are involved and stuffing really is used to control mid and HF. Use it if you wish, it won't harm anything, just make sure that the stuffing can't come into contact with the rear surface of the driver cone
Well, there's been different people give different figures for stuffing. Some say that, with the right stuff, you can make a sealed box seem up to 25% bigger. More sensible people say around 10% bigger. Not advised for ported as it may be spat out at higher volumes. Still, most people line enclosures with ~1" of something or other. Can be done for ported and sealed, helps prevent internal reflections.
Chris
Chris
Ok thanks!
Ill make sure to get the right wire and probably just pass on the stuffing.
Thanks for all the help, its much appreciated 🙂
Ill make sure to get the right wire and probably just pass on the stuffing.
Thanks for all the help, its much appreciated 🙂
For subs you could try some of the 1" egg crate bed topper foam rubber(available cheaply from WalMart bedding dept.) and glue it on the inside wall opposite the driver location. This does help a bit in dispersing internal reflections - if you want to do it on other internal surfaces as well that's ok as well.
Oh wow lol thats interesting. 😱 😛
Ill have to check that out, the cost is going a little higher now with all this stuff than i originally thought, so not sure if I'll have room for that, but if its cheap and will make a difference ill have to try. 😀
Ill have to check that out, the cost is going a little higher now with all this stuff than i originally thought, so not sure if I'll have room for that, but if its cheap and will make a difference ill have to try. 😀
My last question to bug you with that i just thought about...
As quoted by your picture...
it shows that the same place i plug in the actual plug from the plate amp, i need to (solder) connect with wire to the other connection.
But if the plug is plugged into it... how am i supposed to solder the wire on the same connection thing?
Or would i use the other connector on that side? for instance like this?
Confused because your picture shows 2 connections on each side when the speaker has 4...
It would leave one connection ("lead"?) open, so im not sure if thats ok... and im guessing that either sides of those things are gonna have a + and - to show what side is which.
As quoted by your picture...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
it shows that the same place i plug in the actual plug from the plate amp, i need to (solder) connect with wire to the other connection.
But if the plug is plugged into it... how am i supposed to solder the wire on the same connection thing?
Or would i use the other connector on that side? for instance like this?
Confused because your picture shows 2 connections on each side when the speaker has 4...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
It would leave one connection ("lead"?) open, so im not sure if thats ok... and im guessing that either sides of those things are gonna have a + and - to show what side is which.
Electrically my wiring diagram and yours are exactly the same - good job !
Just make sure when you connect the wires to the driver what you have make sure is that the two terminals marked + are connected together and that the two terminals marked - are connected together, that way you will have a parallel connection for the driver voice coils.
Also, if you want, you can just cut the quick connects off of the end of the speaker wiring coming from the Foster sub amp and then, rather than soldering, connect these to your sub wiring using regular electrical twist Marr connectors. That way, if you have to remove the amp or driver for any reason it leaves that option open,
btw the egg crate foam rubber bed topper at WalMart is really cheap - about $16 for enough to cover a full queen size bed. Acoustically, once it is installed, you don't lose any of your internal cabinet volume so your enclosure calcs won't have to change.
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Ok great! 😀 thanks!
On the topic of that... should i make the wires long enough to droop down away from the magnet (idk if it will interfere?), or should i make them short enough to rest on the magnet? or possibly hold them away from the magnet?
Also, i ran WinISD to figure out an enclosure i should make... and it says i need a 4" hole for venting. would it be ok to make two 2" holes? seems like it would be the same thing, and would make it look alot less obtrusive and better. 🙄
Ok thats good, ill make sure i try that then!
Generally you don't want the wires coming into contact with the frame or the magnet of the driver because they could theoretically bang about and cause unpleasant noises when the sub is really cooking. Just zip tie them so that droop a little but are held back from contacting any part of the driver.
With a 12" sub usually you need at least a 4" dia port to avoid chuffing - when you have your project loaded into WinISD (make sure you have the correct signal tab level set in the small project window for system power input - that would be approx 100W for the Foster amp). Then on the main window use the pull down menu to look at Rear Port Air Velocity - the peak velocity shown should be no more that approx 15 m/s to avoid chuffing. Going with 2 ports is an option but using a 2" diameter for them is probably too small.
btw - if you want pls feel free to PM me and I will give you my email addy so that you can send me a copy of your WinISD Project file (.wpr) if you want any more extensive help with your design
With a 12" sub usually you need at least a 4" dia port to avoid chuffing - when you have your project loaded into WinISD (make sure you have the correct signal tab level set in the small project window for system power input - that would be approx 100W for the Foster amp). Then on the main window use the pull down menu to look at Rear Port Air Velocity - the peak velocity shown should be no more that approx 15 m/s to avoid chuffing. Going with 2 ports is an option but using a 2" diameter for them is probably too small.
btw - if you want pls feel free to PM me and I will give you my email addy so that you can send me a copy of your WinISD Project file (.wpr) if you want any more extensive help with your design
Last question...
Is pine wood ok to make a subwoofer enclosure out of?[/QUOTE]
I know it has been said, but not really. Spend the money (not that much) on MDF or Baltic Birch Plywood, they are both good and sturdy and sound amazing for enclosures both in your Home system or your Car.
Is pine wood ok to make a subwoofer enclosure out of?[/QUOTE]
I know it has been said, but not really. Spend the money (not that much) on MDF or Baltic Birch Plywood, they are both good and sturdy and sound amazing for enclosures both in your Home system or your Car.
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