I have been wondering what ya all thought about this.
By looking at my .jpg, I hope it made it through, I round the walls inwards.
I don't think a horn shape is what I'm looking for, such as a tweeter( that shape of wall curve).
I'll end up with a box 20" square and 13.5" in depth.
I figured I'd hollow out 2"x8"s for the walls of the horn. I should be able to leave about 1" thickness of wood left over after hollowing.
My listening room is 15' x 13'. The stereo sits next to the TV and I watch and listen from the wall 14' away. Its only two channel, but it can get up to 6 including sub.
Will I benefit by setting up a box like this? Anyone try this ???
I have two 10" subs to use. If I like what one sounds like I may create a passive crossover and sit the two boxes below my Klipsch Heresy's, forcing the subs to work below 140 Hz.
Another question I need to ask, is about the woofer impedances. One is a 2.2 ohm and one is 4 ohm. I'm probably going to have to find the best resistor to add impedance onto the 2.2 ohm sub to balance the load. Since the resistor is going to be in series with the 2.2 ohm, do I need to look for a power resistor of some sort? I see Partsextress has 10 watt 1.8 ohm, but it that enough? Doesn't seem so, as far as power goes.
Many thanks all,
Greg
By looking at my .jpg, I hope it made it through, I round the walls inwards.
I don't think a horn shape is what I'm looking for, such as a tweeter( that shape of wall curve).
I'll end up with a box 20" square and 13.5" in depth.
I figured I'd hollow out 2"x8"s for the walls of the horn. I should be able to leave about 1" thickness of wood left over after hollowing.
My listening room is 15' x 13'. The stereo sits next to the TV and I watch and listen from the wall 14' away. Its only two channel, but it can get up to 6 including sub.
Will I benefit by setting up a box like this? Anyone try this ???
I have two 10" subs to use. If I like what one sounds like I may create a passive crossover and sit the two boxes below my Klipsch Heresy's, forcing the subs to work below 140 Hz.
Another question I need to ask, is about the woofer impedances. One is a 2.2 ohm and one is 4 ohm. I'm probably going to have to find the best resistor to add impedance onto the 2.2 ohm sub to balance the load. Since the resistor is going to be in series with the 2.2 ohm, do I need to look for a power resistor of some sort? I see Partsextress has 10 watt 1.8 ohm, but it that enough? Doesn't seem so, as far as power goes.
Many thanks all,
Greg
Attachments
If your picture is the least bit accurate what you have is a waveguide, a horn where the throat is larger than the cone. It would provide a bit of directional control, which in a sub is useless, and a bit of gain, 2-3dB perhaps, around the quarter wavelength of the guide length, which would appear to be around 500-600 Hz according to the dimensions you give; gain would extend perhaps an octave at best above that as the throat is too large to effectively load even at 500 Hz, let alone much above that.
In short your design offers no improvement over either a sealed or vented box of the same volume, and in fact won't even perform as well as either of those options. Sorry.
You cannot add resistance to the 2.2ohm load; the power requirement would be equal to that of the driver wattage rating to not simply burn up. Better to use two lower wattage plate amps with level controls for matching.
If you want something to keep up with the sensitivity of a Klipsch Heresey what you propose won't do it, not even close. And what are the T/S parameters of your drivers? Jut because they're tens doesn't mean they are subwoofer material.
Asdie from a simple sealed or ported box that you can design with a box program like WinISD I'd forget about trying to design a high efficiency sub; even most experienced designers don't have the requisite chops to come up with small sub horns. If that is what you want here's one possible alternative:
www.billfitzmaurice.com/plans/product_info.php/products_id/7
In short your design offers no improvement over either a sealed or vented box of the same volume, and in fact won't even perform as well as either of those options. Sorry.
You cannot add resistance to the 2.2ohm load; the power requirement would be equal to that of the driver wattage rating to not simply burn up. Better to use two lower wattage plate amps with level controls for matching.
If you want something to keep up with the sensitivity of a Klipsch Heresey what you propose won't do it, not even close. And what are the T/S parameters of your drivers? Jut because they're tens doesn't mean they are subwoofer material.
Asdie from a simple sealed or ported box that you can design with a box program like WinISD I'd forget about trying to design a high efficiency sub; even most experienced designers don't have the requisite chops to come up with small sub horns. If that is what you want here's one possible alternative:
www.billfitzmaurice.com/plans/product_info.php/products_id/7
What is the sub and what are the specs?
fs
Qts
Vas
xmax ... etc
Even though your room is fairly small, you won't get much output out of a 10" sub, although you can get a decent amount out of a pair of them, depending on the excursion.
A regular 10" sub doesn't sound like a good match for a klipsch.
Forget passive crossovers for a sub!
Basically you need an amp that can handle the impedance load of your speakers. You can add identical drivers - wired in series to increase increase impedance, but don't add resistors. They are only 10w at the most and it's a waste of power.
The speaker you have klipsch heresy is a fairly efficient speaker with 96db efficiency and 100 watts power handling and extension down to 50 Hz.
This translates to probably about 105 db at your listening position.
The sub needs to be fairly decent to compete with that. Some high excursion sub drivers under each speaker, might be just what you are looking for. It would elevate them a little so the tweeters are at ear level. One 12" driver per side is probably about right.
fs
Qts
Vas
xmax ... etc
Even though your room is fairly small, you won't get much output out of a 10" sub, although you can get a decent amount out of a pair of them, depending on the excursion.
A regular 10" sub doesn't sound like a good match for a klipsch.
Forget passive crossovers for a sub!
Basically you need an amp that can handle the impedance load of your speakers. You can add identical drivers - wired in series to increase increase impedance, but don't add resistors. They are only 10w at the most and it's a waste of power.
The speaker you have klipsch heresy is a fairly efficient speaker with 96db efficiency and 100 watts power handling and extension down to 50 Hz.
This translates to probably about 105 db at your listening position.
The sub needs to be fairly decent to compete with that. Some high excursion sub drivers under each speaker, might be just what you are looking for. It would elevate them a little so the tweeters are at ear level. One 12" driver per side is probably about right.
That pic is so cool! Is that a 3D rendering? Can't be real, can it?
The pic is basically what I thought.
I have no real data about the 10" subs. They are from some KLH subs I bought as is, in which the amps are blown. I know the speakers work though.
I figure the amps are repairable, but if I could just add bass to my Klipsch's I thought I'd be ahead. So I had to ask.
I have a new pair of 12" Pyramid PWF12 cheapo woofers but I thought the Klipsch's would out run them, even if I used only lower frequencies with the subs.
For an amp I have a Harmon Kardon AVR 225. Its supposed to have plenty of amps for lower impedances. I don't need a high watt amp because my listening area is fairly small. I now run a small 6" sub alone on the center channel with a coil to block off highs, and I can separately boost the center to add bass when I want.
Thanks for your advice,
Greg
The pic is basically what I thought.
I have no real data about the 10" subs. They are from some KLH subs I bought as is, in which the amps are blown. I know the speakers work though.
I figure the amps are repairable, but if I could just add bass to my Klipsch's I thought I'd be ahead. So I had to ask.
I have a new pair of 12" Pyramid PWF12 cheapo woofers but I thought the Klipsch's would out run them, even if I used only lower frequencies with the subs.
For an amp I have a Harmon Kardon AVR 225. Its supposed to have plenty of amps for lower impedances. I don't need a high watt amp because my listening area is fairly small. I now run a small 6" sub alone on the center channel with a coil to block off highs, and I can separately boost the center to add bass when I want.
Thanks for your advice,
Greg
It's an image taken from klipsch.com with a bit of manipulation - no, not a 3D model. I just copied the driver and made the duscap bigger to make it look more like a home audio sub and copied down the veneer.
If you want it to look like image AND you want to keep up with your mains, you need some serious excursion drivers! They are using a 12" driver to get down to 50 Hz in a fairly large sealed box. That means fairly low distortion tight bass with good dynamics. You could quite easily mess this up with a cheap muddy subwoofer.
A Peerless XLS 12" on either side would probably work quite nicely in a sealed box. You could make a new grille to make it appear that it is one speaker if you wish.
Hifi amps aren't that great for subs. They lack the power for a start, they also seem to lack control. Bass is more dynamic than the rest of the audio range, don't underestimate the power required! Considerably more power is needed simply because bass is more dynamic. You need 4x the power to get any real increase in dynamic range (6db).
What you really want are plate amps or PA amps. I'd say either a 250w plate amp for a Peerless XLS 12" in a sealed box under each of your klipsch speakers, or you could use a PA amp with similar power which might end up cheaper.
I can't see the value in adding small cheap subs to these speakers, seems like you would do more harm than good.
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