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I have discovered through lots of trial and error that Birch simply doesn't produce the colour it says on the can when it comes to stains. The stores show samples, small pieces of wood, but they are invariably Oak or Pine and on Birch it looks different. In some cases it looks completely different.
I am going to use the Gel stains, they don't appear to blotch. In fact the biggest issue is that it shows up the imperfections in the plywood (e.g. banding from how the veneers are harvested) but otherwise ok. By combining two or more gel stains I can get a colour that doesn't make we want to puke and it's relatively low on the effort scale since you can brush in on without any skill or equipment other than a brush.
update: I took the AN15 driver off burn-in last night. It's now got about 500 hours of burn-in on the clock so it should be ready to go when the box is ready !
I am going to use the Gel stains, they don't appear to blotch. In fact the biggest issue is that it shows up the imperfections in the plywood (e.g. banding from how the veneers are harvested) but otherwise ok. By combining two or more gel stains I can get a colour that doesn't make we want to puke and it's relatively low on the effort scale since you can brush in on without any skill or equipment other than a brush.
update: I took the AN15 driver off burn-in last night. It's now got about 500 hours of burn-in on the clock so it should be ready to go when the box is ready !
Absolutely, but its massive ~177 ft^3 net Vb and material cost makes it impractical for all but the largest home entertainment rooms. Basically, you need to build a divided false wall at one end to minimize material cost and loss of room space.
GM
GM
177 is unworkable. we're talking 5meters high with width/depth of 1m.
that is not a speaker cabinet. that's a car.
that is not a speaker cabinet. that's a car.
I'd not second guess GM. My miniOnken-style boxes tend to be small, the AN15 one i actually compromised the size to get the volume down to 600 litres. I started doing the work to design one to a specified footprimt for s client but abandoned it when the thing turned out to be well above 2m in height.
dave
177cuft is not just bigger than 600l. it is an order of magnitude bigger than the 600l. it is ~5000l.
and please don't misunderstand me, i am not saying that the calculations are wrong, i am saying that a 177cuft speaker is practically worthless. That is, it is so big that it makes it so unpractical that you can't actually use it. Unless you own a hangar or something. a cathedral?
with sufficient padding, would the physical dimensions of the cabinet drop any? Achieve an effective 177cuft Vb with a 50cuft box perhaps?
i am not very knowledgeable.
and please don't misunderstand me, i am not saying that the calculations are wrong, i am saying that a 177cuft speaker is practically worthless. That is, it is so big that it makes it so unpractical that you can't actually use it. Unless you own a hangar or something. a cathedral?
with sufficient padding, would the physical dimensions of the cabinet drop any? Achieve an effective 177cuft Vb with a 50cuft box perhaps?
i am not very knowledgeable.
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Joined 2009
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i don't think that everyone has yet grasped the magnitude of a 177ft3 requirement. you need 2 - TWO of them!
and the line length of the BiB would be about 20' with a terminus of 2436 in2! this is according to the BiB_166_GM2.xls calculator.
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Welcome to the world of man-sized boxes. 😉 As GM said, this is essentially one for those who can physically build it as part of the room via false wall. Not impossibe for all, but impractical for the majority, who aren't able to engage in a major project of this nature. This is the issue with the AN15. It's an old fashioned style of driver; probably all the better for it, but, that comes at a price: namely, it wants a big box.
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this would then become like some of the pipe organ installations that encompass the entire back part of the stage in a unified cabinet.
Again, if one has the luxury of being able to build them into a false wall cavity, it doesn't reduce room size very much because its depth need only be ~1.5x the driver's protrusion into the cab, so not worthless IME.
In a prior neighbor's house I built a smaller, but still substantial, ~150 ft^3/channel [~300 ft^3 total] I.B. in a partitioned basement room. It's been so long ago I don't remember the room dims, but would be surprised if it was as big as my current ~16 x 24 x 8 ft room.
Large by many folks standards around the world to be sure, especially most apartment or condo dwellers [even here], but only equates to a one car carport or garage here in the USA where a two car one is the norm.
Bottom line, they can fit and work well in an even smaller room plus if you build them in as diagonal corner horns, then an even smaller room can be made to work plus the 'V' front wall it creates massively improves the room's LF response.
At 50 ft^3, you might as well just make it a T/S max flat vented alignment's ~39 ft^3 except design it as a mass loaded [vented] Voigt pipe [AKA ‘BIB’].
Seems to me I already posted on one of these A-N threads what I consider the smallest cab that the driver's published specs will tolerate without resorting to going towards aperiodic, but again it's whatever net Vb it takes to raise Fs 1.56x in a sealed cab or ~15.15 ft^3. Tune it to Fs if driving it with a high output impedance or as far down as ~22 Hz if a very low output impedance.
While this is hardly carry on luggage size, it’s portable if a hand-truck is available, or just put casters and a grab bar on it like I did with my 20 ft^3 cabs, though you’ll need some strong help if going up/down a long stairway.
GM
In a prior neighbor's house I built a smaller, but still substantial, ~150 ft^3/channel [~300 ft^3 total] I.B. in a partitioned basement room. It's been so long ago I don't remember the room dims, but would be surprised if it was as big as my current ~16 x 24 x 8 ft room.
Large by many folks standards around the world to be sure, especially most apartment or condo dwellers [even here], but only equates to a one car carport or garage here in the USA where a two car one is the norm.
Bottom line, they can fit and work well in an even smaller room plus if you build them in as diagonal corner horns, then an even smaller room can be made to work plus the 'V' front wall it creates massively improves the room's LF response.
At 50 ft^3, you might as well just make it a T/S max flat vented alignment's ~39 ft^3 except design it as a mass loaded [vented] Voigt pipe [AKA ‘BIB’].
Seems to me I already posted on one of these A-N threads what I consider the smallest cab that the driver's published specs will tolerate without resorting to going towards aperiodic, but again it's whatever net Vb it takes to raise Fs 1.56x in a sealed cab or ~15.15 ft^3. Tune it to Fs if driving it with a high output impedance or as far down as ~22 Hz if a very low output impedance.
While this is hardly carry on luggage size, it’s portable if a hand-truck is available, or just put casters and a grab bar on it like I did with my 20 ft^3 cabs, though you’ll need some strong help if going up/down a long stairway.
GM
........and since the formula I posted doesn't account for Fs, the ~177 ft^3 stays the same if you tune it higher to shorten it/relocate the driver, so it's footprint/terminus will increase with increasing Fp.
GM
IME, definitely better. High Vas drivers can follow a signal more accurately than a low Vas one, so for wide BW apps it can't be too high and let the cab alignment and effective motor strength shape its point source response rather than its suspension.
GM