801

[2a3maniac]

801 tube.please tell me the opinions for audio or some informations..thanks😎

 

[tubeman]

801/801A

801/801A = VT62 = Uprated version of 10Y triode tube
You can see some information at http://homepage.mac.com/ryomasuda/VT/num/10/
http://members.at.infoseek.co.jp/VT62/vt62amp.html
http://www.vt52.com/diy/myprojects/amps/exodus2/exodus2.htm
http://www5d.biglobe.ne.jp/~y-araki/vt62.htm
http://www.tubecollector.org/us-vt62.htm

tubeman.

 

[tubeman]

And this is link to nice project of VT62
http://www2u.biglobe.ne.jp/~tossie/index.html

Thank you
tubeman.

 

[Brian Clark]

I am now using 801As, driven from Lundahl LL1674 amorphous core 1:8 step-up trannies, which are giving the most achingly gorgeous sound through my Hedlund Horns with AER drivers.
For sensitive speakers like these I don't think there can be a finer valve. I have been selling my 45/245s.....

Brian.

 

[2a3maniac]

Thanks a lot for your informations, i have 4 801 tubes NOS and i want to build an ampl. around these tubes

 

[Brian Clark]

They are quite easy valves to drive, just 20Vrms 30V pk. A driver valve having a gain of around 30 would be ideal. Low current RC coupled PTT-type would fit the bill (WE102D and similar).
With Riken anode resistor and, say, Jupiter beeswax coupling cap you would one sweet little 2 watter. 7k5 OPT and around 20mA.

For 801A filament DC is mandatory, I use CLCL with the final L a small 7mH common mode at the valve base. I also use a pot the same as if I was using AC. Otherwise use constant current a la Tom Ronan.

Brian.

 

[Brian Clark]

Hmm. You have 4 801As eh? Try 801A driving 801A, 1st valve only drawing around 10mA so allowing Riken resistor loading.
Not sensitive though - 4Vrms, 6Vpk required for full 2 watts.

Brian.