Lower bass extension is exactly what I am after with this volume + Isobaric. Obviously though, cancellation is not good.
How about another small PVC pipe to transmit the pressure through the driver vents? Oh, I'm going off on a tangent. I'll have to experiment...
Thanks gentlemen for tolerating my ignorance. Some of these designs are totally new to me.
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That’s what i meant too. Having them so far apart is not an advantage.
The baffles will deal with any difference between pipe diameter and driver diameter. Likely double layers of 18mm BB.
dave
Heres a rudimentary design I came up with when space was constrained in a frequently used bedroom system shared with my fiance. Essentially the stand columns perform double duty by housing a 6 inch TB sub for L/R sidse.
I'm thinking of rebuilding them and starting from scratch only next time I might do a push pull configuration. and put one sub in opposite ends. OR divide them on centre as they are shown here, but instead of one I'd install a 6 in each channel. I made it sound I litle confusing but what I mean is 2 per each stereo channel.
Perched on top are full range panasonics which do a really good job. I buttered a first pair and was lucky to grab more from a second hand along with the mini system they were intended for. They sounded brassy an too bright and I thought boy, much thought mustn't of went into them they sound horrible. After a few weeks usage the difference was night and day. That and a full class A amp really makes them sing out smooth with great midrange detail, and not rolled off too soon higher. . The deep cabinets help them achieve fairly decent bass too being as tiny as they are. To shorten this they really opened my ears to full range speakers.
I'm thinking of rebuilding them and starting from scratch only next time I might do a push pull configuration. and put one sub in opposite ends. OR divide them on centre as they are shown here, but instead of one I'd install a 6 in each channel. I made it sound I litle confusing but what I mean is 2 per each stereo channel.
Perched on top are full range panasonics which do a really good job. I buttered a first pair and was lucky to grab more from a second hand along with the mini system they were intended for. They sounded brassy an too bright and I thought boy, much thought mustn't of went into them they sound horrible. After a few weeks usage the difference was night and day. That and a full class A amp really makes them sing out smooth with great midrange detail, and not rolled off too soon higher. . The deep cabinets help them achieve fairly decent bass too being as tiny as they are. To shorten this they really opened my ears to full range speakers.
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Ah, thanks for clearing that up Scott. I've got to try it out. I just received my Jasper router jig for cutting/routing perfect circles too.
Patience is rewarded with full ranger 'break in'. Subs too I think. Nice you stuck with them! My P7's take more than a few weeks.
Prototype stage, Modular and experimental.
Thanks to Dave and Scott for motivation!
I've enough speaker terminals from my last stacked subwoofer experiment to draw out all connections from each driver for external connection to the Amp. In/out phase, series/parallel combo's. This will be beneficial even up to and including the final phase of this project.
Thanks to Dave and Scott for motivation!
I've enough speaker terminals from my last stacked subwoofer experiment to draw out all connections from each driver for external connection to the Amp. In/out phase, series/parallel combo's. This will be beneficial even up to and including the final phase of this project.
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For sealing I'm going to try adhesive vinyl foam strip. I have 2 thicknesses available: 3/16" & 1/8". Both are 2" wide which is enough to join the edges of drivers. It will seal, but at higher volumes, who knows. Initially, I intend low volume testing without this foam just to witness this air motor in action. 
As far as spacing, the xmax is 24mm for these drivers. I have them spaced at 1.030" with nylon spacers tightened between nylon impregnated locknuts. Granted, maybe not enough but I anticipate disaasembly 1 final time before sealing everything and painting. Thanks!
As far as spacing, the xmax is 24mm for these drivers. I have them spaced at 1.030" with nylon spacers tightened between nylon impregnated locknuts. Granted, maybe not enough but I anticipate disaasembly 1 final time before sealing everything and painting. Thanks!
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You are looking for a world of hurt with the door sealer — it only works on speakers if you are compressing it between 2 surfaces.. Much more stable if you just put one on each side of the baffle (you might have to double up ¾") and lose the nylon spacers. It looks like you has a solution looking for a problem.
dave
dave
I'm going to disassemble the first subwoofer build and increase the spacing from 1.5" to 2.5". But before I disassemble the 2 assemblies on the first build, with one clamshell on the bottom and one clamshell towards the top, I'm going to put together the second subwoofer this time with all four together like Dave suggested earlier:
My question is: where the 2 magnets meet, and these subs have vented holes, what should I use in between the magnets?
I have justthe same collection of bits. I have already cut the 12” PVC to the appropriate length for a sealed enclosure, cut baffles and get sufficient ready-rod to bolt 4 12s into each pipe in this push-pull-push-push configuration.
dave
My question is: where the 2 magnets meet, and these subs have vented holes, what should I use in between the magnets?
That particular sketch was an ideal case. The box is never likely to fit the drivers so nicely so i place a passive brace between the 2 magnets.
I’m not a big fan of vented polepieces and don’t mind blocking them, but if you are convcerned you can offset the magnet-tomagnet brace.
Build up 2 baffles. Each one with a driver on each side. Then mount them on either end and pull them together (with your ready rod or passively) such that they just touch the brace when tight.
dave
I’m not a big fan of vented polepieces and don’t mind blocking them, but if you are convcerned you can offset the magnet-tomagnet brace.
Build up 2 baffles. Each one with a driver on each side. Then mount them on either end and pull them together (with your ready rod or passively) such that they just touch the brace when tight.
dave
My woofers have a solid unvented cone, so I make sure the vent at the rear is not obstructed
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