8"+1" combo home use

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#23
Has anyone build the 18Sound 8" kit ?
http://www.eighteensound.com/staticContent/applications/kits/kit8_2_way.htm
the price for the woofer is same as for the B&C 8NDL51, so I'm wondering if the additional price for the tweeter (and complete box as whole) would be worth the money. Its double the price of my initial thought, but i rather spend more now, then to regret later 🙂 Is the 8MB400 in the same class as the B&C driver?

If this would be worth pursuing, I dont have to worry about the x-over (maeby some minor adjustment)

thanks
 
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#24
Hi all.
This is first time I want to use regular way to design a speaker, so I played a little bit in WinISD.
Can you tell me if I'm doing something wrong?
To get the yellow line (22L vented SM108 driver) in this shape, I had to add 7g mass to the cone. What will i gain/loose?
Also I've noticed that in driver data I didn't had any Le value, and the blue line is with the Le entered, all other parameters same (vented, 22L, tuned to 55Hz, 7g added mass to cone).

Is somebody getting different results? The driver suppose to be good in 10 to 30L cabinets. I'd like to get the f3 something around 50-55Hz (later a pair of subs will be added).

any help highly appreciated.

danny

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
 
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#26
barackuda said:
Has anyone build the 18Sound 8" kit ?
Eighteen Sound Kits
the price for the woofer is same as for the B&C 8NDL51, so I'm wondering if the additional price for the tweeter (and complete box as whole) would be worth the money. Its double the price of my initial thought, but i rather spend more now, then to regret later 🙂 Is the 8MB400 in the same class as the B&C driver?

If this would be worth pursuing, I dont have to worry about the x-over (maeby some minor adjustment)

thanks
Click to expand...
The 18Sound looks like a decent driver, but the shorting ring and the excellent measured performance of the NDL51 are what attracted me to it. No experience with the 18S myself though.
The 18Sound kit does have the advantage of coming with the xover design, but I dunno if it will be a great xover or merely an 'adequate' cheap PA design - guessing the latter. The ND1070 is gong to be good based upon my early playing with the 1090, the first Ti frammed driver I have liked and I like the XT120.
 
#27
Hello all,
some updates.
I've been in touch with a member of this board (Paul) pkitt.We had a look at some cabinet alignments. This is the outcome (with a much respected knowledge of Paul - THANK YOU )
Drivers in question:
B&C 8NDL51, RCF L8S800, Beyma SM108, 18sound 8MB400:

From these drivers, the best results were achieved with the RCF driver, suggested by sumacSK (thanks for the idea ).
The simulation came out at F3 50Hz with 26,5L box, but I go for a 22L box with F3 around 56Hz, which is still pretty good for my needs.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


The other drivers:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


To compare to my simulation in WinISD for the RCF L8S800:
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So this driver won the competition 🙂
Still have to decide on a CD for the XT120 horns, which already arrived (didn't expected them to be that big :O ).The horns surprised me with they build Q, the plastic is very thick, a guess around 6-7mm over the entire area.
Probably there will be some fine filing between the driver output and horn mouth to have a smooth surface (but I could be wrong).

I'm still working on the design, but preliminary picture is like this.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Danny

P.S. : still open to suggestions and design ideas (the whole lot changes as time goes 😀 )
 
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#28
I too wish to make a small pro 1" compression driver with 8" mid when time allows and Dayton 8" round waveguide to form a simple looking speaker with two round 8" units. Lautsprecher Intertechnik - Produktkatalog & Shop - Lautsprecher für Selbstbau, Hifi, Pro Audio & Car Hifi - Shop Only source i can find in Europe for this waveguide.

The plan was to imitate the basic design of this Amphion Ion L, or Geddes speaker.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Can you integrate the port into the CNC cabinet work? KRK speakers use a rectangular front ported design

Through cross bracing is it logical to seal off the tweeter or even create a small transmission line or tapering tubes within the cabinet?
 
#29
Studio Au,
if I seal of the tweeter, I will loose a big amount of internal volume, which brings the f3 even higher, and I don't want that. The volume of drivers/horn ocupied will lower it about 1,5-2L anyway, so the FR will move up a little. But later I will add two stereo woofers to support the bottom end.
The back of my design has a flat surface along the height, so the port will be just as in a standard rectangular box (hole cut, counter sunk, port shoved in), something like Sonus Faber makes, well sort of.

I'm still strugling to think how to convert the Google Sketchup drawing to some CAD drawing, so the CNC machine accept it. Any ideas?

Danny
 
#31
When doing cnc work, i cheated and drew all my pictures in CorelDraw (Illustrator works well although harder to use) and saved them as DXF files. Your design seems to replicate the same pieces, with only a few changes for the bracing so it wouldn't take to long to draw out, not sure how you determine the recess for the front panel though.

If I was you, separate the different pieces to be machined in SketchUp, export as jpg, put them into your CorelDraw file and trace the edges. Then scale and measure (perhaps print out and measure with a ruler aswell).


CorelDraw offer a free trial.

I do believe SketchupPro has 3D and 2D exporters, DWG or DXF should give you the XYZ coordinates the CNC will need.

What is the material, a good plywood like the one used on the Sonus Faber would look excellent. Do they veneer them after, i much prefer the natural ply.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


You may have a great deal of excess material in the middle of all the curves, have you thought about using it, perhaps making stands?
 
#32
Studio Au:
That's what I was thinking.Use the middle pieces as stands (well, have some more cut to achieve the height)
I have drawn them with 30mm ply in mind, not decided on quality yet, as I'd like to have the baffle covered in white vinyl replicating leather (as sonus faber, but white) and the top and bottom to be piano finish in some colour, curved sides veneered to match my living room furniture. However I thing that its a loooooooong way before deciding this 🙂
Also mi wife has some saying in this manner, she likes to decorate 🙂 and I don't really mind what color are they (even if raw ply/MDF 😀 )

I'll take a note on this construction you posted (looks nice and easy to transfer to Coreldraw (perhaps I'll find some other way in mean time).
I have to re-do the bracing, this one looks much sturdy than mine.
Also the back slot opens up for ideas (a bar of nice polished aluminium with binding posts...etc etc.)

thanks for the hints....

but I'm more concerned about the drivers and XO, rather than looks 😉

Danny
 
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