Hi,
As the GZ37 is getting so expensive, I am thinking if I can use the 6AS7 as an indirectly heated rectifier tube instead.
If it can be done, I believe it need to have the grid and cathode shorted for it to work as rectifier.
My questions are :-
1. What is the current rating with this config?
2. Does it have the same slow turn on time like the GZ37??
Johnny
As the GZ37 is getting so expensive, I am thinking if I can use the 6AS7 as an indirectly heated rectifier tube instead.
If it can be done, I believe it need to have the grid and cathode shorted for it to work as rectifier.
My questions are :-
1. What is the current rating with this config?
2. Does it have the same slow turn on time like the GZ37??
Johnny
I've seen people using an 845 as a rectifier: it was in an all-845 amp, with 5 845 tubes: 2 rectifiers, a voltage amp, a driver transformer coupled to another 845, the real power one... people sometimes are crazy 😉
I tried it. Sounds great!
About current, it was a monoblock sucking 50 mA so i wasn't worried.
That 6AS7 died in an accident btw (a transformer hit her badly) but i've got now a NOS RCA which is better than the Svetlana.
About current, it was a monoblock sucking 50 mA so i wasn't worried.
That 6AS7 died in an accident btw (a transformer hit her badly) but i've got now a NOS RCA which is better than the Svetlana.
The 6AS7 would be a pretty bad choice as a rectifier due to cathode stripping during warm up. Current production 5AR4/GZ34 would be a better choice.
Old production 6BY5G/GA are a dirt cheap, indirectly heated dual diode. 6AX5 is another. For REALLY slow warmup, use damper diodes like a pair of 6AX4, 6W4, 6AU4.
I'd be worried about the peak inverse voltage. When plate is not conducting. A tube not designed for such voltages may be prone to arc. The rectifier is a special case that has to endure things no triode should ever see.
Then again. can't hurt to try.
jh
Then again. can't hurt to try.
jh
Not so, I'm afraid...
I thought that too - I figured that the thick heater/cathode insulation must slow warm-up. Then I measured 6CL3. They take exactly the same time as any other diode (about 11 seconds).
But don't let me dampen your enthusiasm for them - they're good and they're cheap.
Tom Bavis said:
I thought that too - I figured that the thick heater/cathode insulation must slow warm-up. Then I measured 6CL3. They take exactly the same time as any other diode (about 11 seconds).
But don't let me dampen your enthusiasm for them - they're good and they're cheap.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.