12V 4 Ohm load:
Single-ended (basic TDA2003 etc) makes 4 Watts
Bridge-mode (standard car-sound chips) makes 16 Watts (18W-24W claimed)
How nano is this nano? I would expect anything with an electric starter (or drive motor), or headlights, would not be strained by a small car-sound system.
Single-ended (basic TDA2003 etc) makes 4 Watts
Bridge-mode (standard car-sound chips) makes 16 Watts (18W-24W claimed)
How nano is this nano? I would expect anything with an electric starter (or drive motor), or headlights, would not be strained by a small car-sound system.
With the efficiency of the TDA2003, which is 69%, you can get these 6W RMS on 4ohm load with 14,4V.
with 12V you will get 4,2W RMS on 4ohm as PRR stated.
About batteries and voltages which are allowed, I can discuss, but this is not the place for that. It is not the question here.
with 12V you will get 4,2W RMS on 4ohm as PRR stated.
About batteries and voltages which are allowed, I can discuss, but this is not the place for that. It is not the question here.
You could use an LM3886. It wouldn't be the most obvious choice, but it'd work.
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I´d use any of the old school chips.
No, NONE will make 6W, not their fault but too low supply voltaghe , so don´t lose sleep about that.
Slightly rewritten goal should be: "easy simple power amps, putting out as much as possible into 4 ohm speakers when fed from car battery voltage"
By the way, TDA2003 is rated 10W into 2 ohm, so you can add an extra pair 4 ohm speakers if space is available, with no extra amp complication.
No, NONE will make 6W, not their fault but too low supply voltaghe , so don´t lose sleep about that.
Slightly rewritten goal should be: "easy simple power amps, putting out as much as possible into 4 ohm speakers when fed from car battery voltage"
By the way, TDA2003 is rated 10W into 2 ohm, so you can add an extra pair 4 ohm speakers if space is available, with no extra amp complication.
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