Hence my interest in using DC heating. One big limitation I've seen in my parents' system is that even very heavy loads like the kettle, oven etc., are forced through the whole system of voltage step-up, battery storage and DC to AC conversion. Heaters are just big resistors. They don't need to additionally radiate ELF radio waves and create potentially nasty pulses that potentially cause severe muscle cramps in case of accidents.
High power DC gets problematic. Arcs with DC do not quench automatically as there is no zero-crossing, so switches need to be expensive & large (or contactors controlled from auxiliary circuit) which can break a high power DC arc reliably. A mechanical switch for 3kW 240Vac (13amps) can be relatively small, a contactor for 3kW 24Vdc (125amps) is a bit of a monster by comparison.
Basically for high power you want high voltage and relatively modest current to keep cabling and switchgear affordable, and AC is safer once you are at higher voltage. Another worry with DC is the possibility of electrolytic corrosion, especially in a damp environment.
I think the current wars ended conclusively the last time!
Basically for high power you want high voltage and relatively modest current to keep cabling and switchgear affordable, and AC is safer once you are at higher voltage. Another worry with DC is the possibility of electrolytic corrosion, especially in a damp environment.
I think the current wars ended conclusively the last time!
You may have a point regarding contact resistance. I had a little issue a couple of years ago: I'd just built a little class-a amplifier, and it came to testing on speakers something seemed broken and I couldn't get the damned thing to connect.
As it happened, I'd grown so accustomed to class-d amplifiers instantly connecting every time (because of the PWM), even with ****ty old PVC coated wires, I'd forgotten that such a problem with oxidation could exist. I had to scrape the wires with a knife and then crimp them down tightly.
As it happened, I'd grown so accustomed to class-d amplifiers instantly connecting every time (because of the PWM), even with ****ty old PVC coated wires, I'd forgotten that such a problem with oxidation could exist. I had to scrape the wires with a knife and then crimp them down tightly.
I think I will look into setting up a LiFePO battery with enough solar to always keep it topped up. And run all my USB bus powered and plugpack powered audio equipment of this. Four of the studio digital gear need 240v so will need an inverter to this battery
I think I will need some help in figuring out a base voltage for the LiFePO cells stacking and always on charging system
I will also need help with pointers towards stepping this voltage down to USB bus 5v
There are plenty of inverters to step this up to 240v for the mixer, screen and PC
I am hoping to get these gear off the grid and also replicate this on the houseboat for the deck party system
I think I will need some help in figuring out a base voltage for the LiFePO cells stacking and always on charging system
I will also need help with pointers towards stepping this voltage down to USB bus 5v
There are plenty of inverters to step this up to 240v for the mixer, screen and PC
I am hoping to get these gear off the grid and also replicate this on the houseboat for the deck party system
The LM2596 DC-DC buck converter modules are my go to cheap option (although these days there are smaller modules available). Remember to switch before the converter so you don't waste battery running the converter at quiescent levels. Adding a polyfuse before each converter might be a wise precaution.
Thank you, I'll try to lookup some of those modules. I might have them in the collection that I have but never used too
Take care about LM2596 available modules if they are the adjustable version, or even if they are fixed version. See graphs at page 20 in the chip datasheet- relationship between Vin-Vout-Ioutmax and the power inductor value. I.e. for 12V input, 5V output and max. 3A, inductor should be 33uH.
All my LM2596 modules arrived with 100uH inductor, so they will never output more than 1.2A-1.4A whatever the input and output voltages are.
All my LM2596 modules arrived with 100uH inductor, so they will never output more than 1.2A-1.4A whatever the input and output voltages are.