OP270FZ
Dear Beercan,
Try the Analog Devices OP270FZ. Make sure it is the FZ version. I don't care about the spec's, because in my opinion it is one of the best dual opamps. Other types that might be good as replacement for the 5532 are:
OPA2604
OPA2134/32
AD8620 (watch out: the max voltage may not exceed 13 volts a rail!)
Other (the best) possibilities are to use the BrownDog adapters and make from two good single opamps one dual.
I prefer the underestimated AD797. They need some attention in the powersupply rails!
Other people might say the OP627 sounds great.
Good luck!
Kind Regards,
Bas
Dear Beercan,
Try the Analog Devices OP270FZ. Make sure it is the FZ version. I don't care about the spec's, because in my opinion it is one of the best dual opamps. Other types that might be good as replacement for the 5532 are:
OPA2604
OPA2134/32
AD8620 (watch out: the max voltage may not exceed 13 volts a rail!)
Other (the best) possibilities are to use the BrownDog adapters and make from two good single opamps one dual.
I prefer the underestimated AD797. They need some attention in the powersupply rails!
Other people might say the OP627 sounds great.
Good luck!
Kind Regards,
Bas
replaced with the
What will hapen your mind could not inmagine what a deapt and brite briljant softly sounding.
Exellent tastly rich sounding opamp but refer to the same output.
Becourse the 5532 is differant from the OP270FZ i got keramic housing
I changed my V-Dac, music fidelity the last output stage and replaced the output Electrolites changed to 2,2uF types mkp and now there is a sound stage
Thx Sebastiaan
Bedankt
LM4562. They have them packed in any type of capsule and they sound cleary better than most of the dual opamps on the market.
There are some other good ones, but they are available only in SMD.
You have one dual OpAmp for each channel.
The headphone section it has NJM4556 - those are good because of the high output curent.
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Ocelot i find too many tweaks to do in this CDP-307 ESD Looool
First cut out the Muting those transistors kills sound stage
output caps 47uF change those to 2,2 or 4,7uF MKP types (non electrolytes)
And NJM5532D-D (looks like teac vrds10 trash opamps) those aint JRC 5532DD types, by my thoughs
Better search for direct output from the TDA1541
Maybe this will help
http://www.audiocircuit.com/A-PDF/AA-Projects-DPR/Magnavox_CD-650-MAG/940-DPR-MAG-article.pdf
Here you can read it
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54619-removing-output-mute-transistors-cd-player.html
That i dont make something out of my thumb
More people do this (cutting mute transistors)
if you cant hear the differance i rather think you never done it, so how could you know what it brings? ... notting i guess
no offence m8
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/54619-removing-output-mute-transistors-cd-player.html
That i dont make something out of my thumb
More people do this (cutting mute transistors)
if you cant hear the differance i rather think you never done it, so how could you know what it brings? ... notting i guess
no offence m8 I tried a few modification to the 307ESD today and it's made an improvement.
I replaced the decoupling caps around the DAC with 220nf MKT caps. Removed the muting transistor going to the variable output. Replaced the op amp that I think is going to the variable output (I think the other op amp is for the fixed output) with my last OPA2132. I used the little sockets so I can change op amps easily in the future.
With these few mods I can hear an improvement. I think the next change will be to the output caps.
@ dutchaudio you say the output caps are 47uf. I found them and there are only two. I would have thought that there would be four, two for variable out and two for fixed out. Just how do they connect with the rest of the circuit?
I've tried looking at the service schematic but it's too faded looking to follow the traces, and I get too lost looking at the underside of the board.
I replaced the decoupling caps around the DAC with 220nf MKT caps. Removed the muting transistor going to the variable output. Replaced the op amp that I think is going to the variable output (I think the other op amp is for the fixed output) with my last OPA2132. I used the little sockets so I can change op amps easily in the future.
With these few mods I can hear an improvement. I think the next change will be to the output caps.
@ dutchaudio you say the output caps are 47uf. I found them and there are only two. I would have thought that there would be four, two for variable out and two for fixed out. Just how do they connect with the rest of the circuit?
I've tried looking at the service schematic but it's too faded looking to follow the traces, and I get too lost looking at the underside of the board.
Would you please further discuss your preference of the 'F' suffix device over the 'E' suffix'. I took a quick look at the OP270 datasheet and noted that while both the E and F devices are available in ceramic packages, the E devices are selected for having superior D.C. offset and common-mode rejection.
I did read an interesting potential reason for such a listening preference in the datasheet, though. The F devices exhibit a lower open-loop gain than do the E devices. Which means the any closed-loop gain setting will inherently employ less negative-feedback. While objectively inferior for static THD, it may none-the-less be good for subjective listening. As you say, never mind it's specs., it just sounds good.
Forget the variable out m8 use the fixed ones (too much components)
Schematic RapidShare AG, Cham, Switzerland right side "free account" click on slow download its free of charge.
Then you got a good copy to work with.
C412 and C512 are those output caps 47uF/25V replace them with 2,2uF -3,9uF MKP (no other types) you need the best qualities here course this is serial in the signal way to the RCA output.
If you have lower bass .... bypass the caps with higher uF till 5uF or higher 10, doesn't hurt at all (BUT DON'T USE those lowsy electrolytes) they have a DA factor of a brickwall and are polarity depending so you practically send one half sinus threw and the other half is blocked not with MKP foil caps.
47uF was taken becourse of worse case possible .... every device had to work behind it no matter what, that's way they chose big caps
Best way is to avoid opams and make from the dac a direct link to the pre in amplifier.
Only you can`t hang a wire stait on the dac course of current of the dac.
But with a small resistor like 200-300 ohm parallel on the output from there a output cap like the one above chosen .... its possible but be careful with this trick, you need advice from experienced professionals
No one has got adjustable inputs only adjustable outputs.
fixed only says NOT adjustable in output
Non fixed sounds real bad coursed by the adjuster mostly transistors
Some cases they use digital adjuster those don`t add trash to the signal and are as good as fixed ones.
The output you can`t adjust to the pre-amp .... so what .... most inputs of the pre-amp only needs from 500mV up to 1V
Only disadvantage with fixed is, you cant lower the output, but it sounds 100% better then non-fixed outputs.
So don`t worry and try to change those 47uF to 2,2-3,9uF MKP and you will hear much more clear sound with sprinkling smooth high en deep bass
Ocelot ..where are you from.. don`t see your country flag at your name tag?
fixed only says NOT adjustable in output
Non fixed sounds real bad coursed by the adjuster mostly transistors
Some cases they use digital adjuster those don`t add trash to the signal and are as good as fixed ones.
The output you can`t adjust to the pre-amp .... so what .... most inputs of the pre-amp only needs from 500mV up to 1V
Only disadvantage with fixed is, you cant lower the output, but it sounds 100% better then non-fixed outputs.
So don`t worry and try to change those 47uF to 2,2-3,9uF MKP and you will hear much more clear sound with sprinkling smooth high en deep bass
Ocelot ..where are you from.. don`t see your country flag at your name tag?
Think your country settings in your account ......
If you want to know who i am .... please visite my site
Who is? - Dutchamps
me just being stupid ???
I have a question about the value of a cap in the CDP-307ESD.
The cap is C904 (big Yellow one). According to the service manual the value of it is 47000MF 5.5V. But Looking at the actual cap, the value is 47mF 5.5V.
So what should it be if I were to replace it?
My understanding is that "MF" is just the older measurement of "uf". So should that cap be 47000uf or 47uf?
Why is the manual different to what's actually in there by such a large amount?
Here is a photo of the cap I'm talking about. It's the yellow one. (it's that tall that it only just fits in the machine).
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii201/mrX256/SONY CDP-307ESD/307esd_CAP.jpg
Here is a photo of the service manual:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii201/mrX256/SONY CDP-307ESD/307esd_datasheet.jpg
The tolerance isn't in the manual either hmmmm.
I'm thinking that "MF" and "mF" might just be two different measurements. Could someone a lot more knowledgeable than me please confirm what's going on?
I have a question about the value of a cap in the CDP-307ESD.
The cap is C904 (big Yellow one). According to the service manual the value of it is 47000MF 5.5V. But Looking at the actual cap, the value is 47mF 5.5V.
So what should it be if I were to replace it?
My understanding is that "MF" is just the older measurement of "uf". So should that cap be 47000uf or 47uf?
Why is the manual different to what's actually in there by such a large amount?
Here is a photo of the cap I'm talking about. It's the yellow one. (it's that tall that it only just fits in the machine).
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii201/mrX256/SONY CDP-307ESD/307esd_CAP.jpg
Here is a photo of the service manual:
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii201/mrX256/SONY CDP-307ESD/307esd_datasheet.jpg
The tolerance isn't in the manual either hmmmm.
I'm thinking that "MF" and "mF" might just be two different measurements. Could someone a lot more knowledgeable than me please confirm what's going on?
MFD, mfd, uF, MF and UF are all the same as µF, meaning millionths. And mF is milli-farad, meaning thousandths. So even though most listings would put your cap at 0.047F, it's also a 47mF, which is also a 47000MF or 47000µF.
If you saw this post before the edits, ignore it. I got it all squared away now.
So order a 0.047F 5.5-6.3V aluminum electrolytic cap with low leakage and you're good to go. The Nichicon UJB0L473THD looks good. Mouser has it in stock.
Out of curiosity, what are the physical dimensions of that cap?
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