So don't aim for 20hz limit. 40hz is plenty for music.
Anyway punch is felt in the 100 to 250hz range. If it's what you want , use the largest diameter in this range.
that is 10" in your case.
If i were you, i would build a three way using two 10" woofers.( which could be the xls 10")
I personally use, in a 60 liters closed box, a 12" xxls sub as a woofer, up to 300hz without problem. I mean 100 to 200hz is very clean and punchy.
Don't focuse too much on the very low end if you want SPL.
Mine is -3db at 40hz, or something like that, and that is too much bass. i still have to equalize down the low end.
I agree 20 Hz is more like a truck running stationer next door. I personally liked when the speaker does down to 30hz flat response makes good fundament for the music.
Hi,
Lists of drivers and amplifier powers and it will be active always worry me.
A more complete design philosophy is what is wanted.
Reading up on the Valdus 500's seems they are built for the purpose you
are using them, be thankful protection is fitted, otherwise you would have
continually frying tweeters, probably to due excessive amplifier clipping.
No bigger than 1100mm x 250mm x 350?mm is really pushing the design
constraints. 20Hz is doable at modest levels, not a chance at party
levels, and requires some pretty fancy footwook in design.
As quality goes up, the SPL needed to impress goes down,
which is why you don't find loads of high SPL DIY designs.
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus
Is a nice design that goes loud and deep. Possibly bi-amp.
rgds, sreten.
Lists of drivers and amplifier powers and it will be active always worry me.
A more complete design philosophy is what is wanted.
Reading up on the Valdus 500's seems they are built for the purpose you
are using them, be thankful protection is fitted, otherwise you would have
continually frying tweeters, probably to due excessive amplifier clipping.
No bigger than 1100mm x 250mm x 350?mm is really pushing the design
constraints. 20Hz is doable at modest levels, not a chance at party
levels, and requires some pretty fancy footwook in design.
As quality goes up, the SPL needed to impress goes down,
which is why you don't find loads of high SPL DIY designs.
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus
Is a nice design that goes loud and deep. Possibly bi-amp.
rgds, sreten.
Physics law doesn't support high efficient low in a small enclosure.
6,5" forget it we where talking high qaulity.
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Joined 2009
Hi, there's nothing severely wrong with your idea, I think you will have a lot of fun with it. I have some suggestions.
I strongly advise that you get measuring equipment. It's a very cheap investment and makes the crossover work a lot easier. Maybe I missed it but are you using DSP?
I think the pair of 10" XLS will work out fine. 20Hz is a bit of overkill, I think flat to 35Hz is a very reasonable target. What you need to realize however is that even if your speaker measures flat your room will have a great impact on the sound you hear. Living rooms can make even the best subwoofer in the world sound bad. EQ helps but not that much. What you will need to do is find the best room position for the subwoofers and that's the idea behind modular subs.
4-5kHz M-T crossover point is a bit high IMO. I would suggest 1-3kHz. Many good tweeters are designed to work in that range and you have to worry about the mid beaming at higher frequencies.
I strongly advise that you get measuring equipment. It's a very cheap investment and makes the crossover work a lot easier. Maybe I missed it but are you using DSP?
I think the pair of 10" XLS will work out fine. 20Hz is a bit of overkill, I think flat to 35Hz is a very reasonable target. What you need to realize however is that even if your speaker measures flat your room will have a great impact on the sound you hear. Living rooms can make even the best subwoofer in the world sound bad. EQ helps but not that much. What you will need to do is find the best room position for the subwoofers and that's the idea behind modular subs.
4-5kHz M-T crossover point is a bit high IMO. I would suggest 1-3kHz. Many good tweeters are designed to work in that range and you have to worry about the mid beaming at higher frequencies.
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The "Tarkus" is a nice design for a R&R speaker, but I played with the 12inch woofer and it looked even better.
Very low WAF though
Very low WAF though
I agree. My goal is a box a bit bigger than this (1500mm x 300mm x 400mm) and even then I think 110db at 20Hz is not going be possible. One option with a box that is thin is to side mount the woofer like the NHT3.3 and many other speakers (Audio Physic to name one still does this). In this case it might make sense to use 2 push-push side firing woofers instead of one larger woofer (again a la Audio Physic Avanti, Avantera, Virgo, Tempo etc..).
I am looking at an F3 of about 45Hz which is plently for most music.
A simple option is this:
2 Morel CAW938 woofers
1 Morel ECW 536
1 Morel ET448
Morel Loudspeakers - Home Audio - Octave Signature Audiophile Speakers - Octave Signature Floorstanding
If one had more design skills
2 x SB Acoustics SB29NRX75-6 or Usher 1001B woofers - they both work well in abot 30 liters.
1 x Peerless NE149W or Wavecor WF152 or WF138
1 x B&G Neo 3 for the tweeter
Parts Express has all these drivers.
Hi,
I really don't think you should attempt 20Hz when loudness is the priority. 30Hz is low enough for almost anything I've found, and 40Hz covers bottom E on a bass guitar, low enough for most stuff - it's rare to find anything lower in recorded music.
If you want antisocial levels, I'd get a reasonably cheap pair of 10"+tweeter PA speakers, then look to add subwoofers later. I've used speakers at levels (12"+tweeter) to fill a college auditorium. You could feel the bass at the other end of the room, yet the speakers went to a mere 80Hz.
Sensitivity, extension, small size. Pick any two.
Chris
I really don't think you should attempt 20Hz when loudness is the priority. 30Hz is low enough for almost anything I've found, and 40Hz covers bottom E on a bass guitar, low enough for most stuff - it's rare to find anything lower in recorded music.
If you want antisocial levels, I'd get a reasonably cheap pair of 10"+tweeter PA speakers, then look to add subwoofers later. I've used speakers at levels (12"+tweeter) to fill a college auditorium. You could feel the bass at the other end of the room, yet the speakers went to a mere 80Hz.
Sensitivity, extension, small size. Pick any two.
Chris
When you are looking at physics laws and then to a normal 6,5" driver it isn't a pointless statement at all.
Just look at what power it reaches Xmax and what spl you have at that power.
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