http://www.tr.ca/2006/english/products/enclosures/nac-221.htm#
local company ...want to encourage them
planning on my HT system for a completely treated and controlled non rectangular 20' by 25' room ..
would get 2 of those ...i know that Belisle accoustics produces high quality drivers ..wonder if anyone has any experience with their complete sub boxes
would be used for <100hz
probably 70-80hz crossed pretty steep to
some 24 8" mids in stereo line array for front ..
1 box of 2 21" on each side for stereo bass 🙂
local company ...want to encourage them
planning on my HT system for a completely treated and controlled non rectangular 20' by 25' room ..
would get 2 of those ...i know that Belisle accoustics produces high quality drivers ..wonder if anyone has any experience with their complete sub boxes
would be used for <100hz
probably 70-80hz crossed pretty steep to
some 24 8" mids in stereo line array for front ..
1 box of 2 21" on each side for stereo bass 🙂
also,
how would you recommend fixing those monsters to the house ???
my house will be made with ICF ( concrete covered with isolated foam forms )
i dind't plan any finish for the HT room yet,
as it is the least of my concerns
( i usually turn the lights off when i watch a movie neway 😛 )
i am not sure how i could fixe those so they don't vibrate on the floor/walls ...
how would you recommend fixing those monsters to the house ???
my house will be made with ICF ( concrete covered with isolated foam forms )
i dind't plan any finish for the HT room yet,
as it is the least of my concerns
( i usually turn the lights off when i watch a movie neway 😛 )
i am not sure how i could fixe those so they don't vibrate on the floor/walls ...
enclosures outside ? i hope that you don't mean outside of the house! 😛
the outside of the enclosures to the house walls ok ?
directly on the foam would do or too soft ?
if i know in advance
i'd probable be able to put some anchors directly in the concrete
the outside of the enclosures to the house walls ok ?
directly on the foam would do or too soft ?
if i know in advance
i'd probable be able to put some anchors directly in the concrete
hmm.... an almost 800 liter cabinet playing "only" to 29Hz. I bet they measure -5db or more. Max SPL 146 db!
Why in the hell do you need that level in your living room? 😀 😀
Sure, let them endorse you with a pair.....but make sure to get them for free...
🙂 🙂
Why in the hell do you need that level in your living room? 😀 😀
Sure, let them endorse you with a pair.....but make sure to get them for free...
🙂 🙂Yep. Maximum flat response for a vented enclosure is about 2.75 cubic feet @ 47Hz for an F3 at 56.3Hz, LOL. 
For that kind of money, there's many more suitable options out there for this application, to say the least..and that's putting it mildly. 🙄
For that kind of money, there's many more suitable options out there for this application, to say the least..and that's putting it mildly. 🙄
Why not a hugh tapped horn with 4 B&C 18TBX100?
You could easely get flat respons down to 18 Hz and a max SPL of 135 dB @20 Hz
You could easely get flat respons down to 18 Hz and a max SPL of 135 dB @20 Hz
Lindell said:hmm.... an almost 800 liter cabinet playing "only" to 29Hz. I bet they measure -5db or more. Max SPL 146 db!
Why in the hell do you need that level in your living room? 😀 😀
Sure, let them endorse you with a pair.....but make sure to get them for free...
Indeed. You can do way better with less...
tinitus said:
Funny. That's exactly one of the options I was thinking the other day when I saw this thread. The very first thing that came to mind, actually.
..Or, 12 CSS SDX15's. Cost would be roughly the same as the above suggestion, although that's not considering the power required. Not certain about vented, but just off the top of my head, that'd be a total of 40.8 cubic feet or 1155.30 liters sealed (3.4 ft^3 per enclosure). But if it were me, I'd probably try to do 2 per box in a push-pull, 6 woofers per side...so a total of six 6.8 cubic foot enclosures with a pair of SDX15's in each. Add a bit of a linkwitz transform 'only' down to 20Hz or less. I'm thinking probably over 120ish dB with 1 watt applied to each woofer?...higher in-room, of course. As far as distortion from the drivers themselves, well...pretty much nonexistent.
Of course, this is all just insane thinking. Absolutely unnecessary, really. Think of the power requirements?!? I'd suggest wiring your house directly to a power plant, or something. 😀
21" monsters
Geez....
I've got a 12" sonosub and an isobaric dual 12" sonosub in my 32' x 32" HT and they shake the whole 2 story structure like no tomorrow...
I understand the "bigger is better" mental state 😀 , but I agree there are better avenues taking up much less space with flatter in room response at lower frequencies.... I personally am a fan of sonosubs... they could be integrated into the structure (sub floor, etc.) pretty easily, are cheap and effective, and would free up capital for other uses <<-always a good thing... or you could do the infinite baffle thingie ala 12 shivas shaking etc.
Of course, far be it from me to discourage extravagant excess when it comes to audiophilia...
John L.
Geez....
I've got a 12" sonosub and an isobaric dual 12" sonosub in my 32' x 32" HT and they shake the whole 2 story structure like no tomorrow...
I understand the "bigger is better" mental state 😀 , but I agree there are better avenues taking up much less space with flatter in room response at lower frequencies.... I personally am a fan of sonosubs... they could be integrated into the structure (sub floor, etc.) pretty easily, are cheap and effective, and would free up capital for other uses <<-always a good thing... or you could do the infinite baffle thingie ala 12 shivas shaking etc.
Of course, far be it from me to discourage extravagant excess when it comes to audiophilia...
John L.
...Yeah, me too. But, I also like straight TL's using Sonotubes too, though. 😀
Problem with most of the drivers that I admire is that their FS is usually extremely low, and the line has to be ridiculously long. 🙁
My particular drivers would need roughly around an 18ft long tube, if I remember correctly. Not possible in here! And, I have 4 of these. 🙁
The few TL's I've had the chance to hear, I liked them a lot...as far as strictly reproducing the very lowest frequencies at least. I'm starting to become more interested in TL's though the more I read about them. Obviously, I'm still reading...
Problem with most of the drivers that I admire is that their FS is usually extremely low, and the line has to be ridiculously long. 🙁
My particular drivers would need roughly around an 18ft long tube, if I remember correctly. Not possible in here! And, I have 4 of these. 🙁
The few TL's I've had the chance to hear, I liked them a lot...as far as strictly reproducing the very lowest frequencies at least. I'm starting to become more interested in TL's though the more I read about them. Obviously, I'm still reading...
Circlomanen said:
No one here ever seems to listen to me when I suggest horn subwoofers for HT. One horn sub ought to bring the house down, literally. More drivers doesn't necessarily mean more bass. Better to build smarter. I think the tapped horn idea is a good one.
FWIW, on the sonotube transmission line sub route, .. been there, done that (as well as ported and sealed). Nice, but horns still rule.
BHTX : i never stated any price on those here..
i can get a "deal" on those..and pay cash
that is something i need to consider
but i ain't no foool 😛
so that is why i wanted to know what you guys think about this particular loudspeaker.. 🙂
Lindell : you sure know how to "spot" a driver
it does look like the england driver you pointed ..
i do not understand
Belisle accoustics are supposed to make all of their drivers .... weird
so what about the FR of this loudpseaker?
if we look at the graph from their site,
it does look enough nah ??🙄 🙄
i don't want 140db necessailry,
but i want the best i can get for bass
and i'd figure that i'f i could get those pretty cheap
since they are made to play at ridiculous level of power
in big rooms, they would play very well
and moderated ( compared to their peak )
levels in my 20x25 room nah ?
and 4 21" shouldn't have much trouble moving
the air required for movies nah ?
still haven't had the change to listen to em though ...
Circlomanen and zobsky :
what would a horn bring me in that case?
how big would it needs to be to get that kind of power at 20hz ??
i can get a "deal" on those..and pay cash
that is something i need to consider
but i ain't no foool 😛
so that is why i wanted to know what you guys think about this particular loudspeaker.. 🙂
Lindell : you sure know how to "spot" a driver
it does look like the england driver you pointed ..
i do not understand
Belisle accoustics are supposed to make all of their drivers .... weird
so what about the FR of this loudpseaker?
if we look at the graph from their site,
it does look enough nah ??🙄 🙄
i don't want 140db necessailry,
but i want the best i can get for bass
and i'd figure that i'f i could get those pretty cheap
since they are made to play at ridiculous level of power
in big rooms, they would play very well
and moderated ( compared to their peak )
levels in my 20x25 room nah ?
and 4 21" shouldn't have much trouble moving
the air required for movies nah ?
still haven't had the change to listen to em though ...
Circlomanen and zobsky :
what would a horn bring me in that case?
how big would it needs to be to get that kind of power at 20hz ??
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is a sim of a possible Tapped horn with 4 B&C18TBX100.
Re: Re: 4 21" for HT ..what u think ?
not if you divised it by 2 ...makes only 8' high for each lousdspeaker ( almost from floor to ceiling ..i should have a little less than 9' of clearance )
not too sure about 8" yet..but it should be near that
So what would you guys sugges to be the best possible solution for getting sub-bass at a dramatic-crazy-waytoomuch point ?
Cal Weldon said:
not if you divised it by 2 ...makes only 8' high for each lousdspeaker ( almost from floor to ceiling ..i should have a little less than 9' of clearance )
not too sure about 8" yet..but it should be near that
So what would you guys sugges to be the best possible solution for getting sub-bass at a dramatic-crazy-waytoomuch point ?
Circlomanen:
very interesting indeed
but i am not familiar with this software. nor with horns.
Is this a single horn drived by 4 drivers,
or 4 seperated horns?
then, what is the size of this horn ?
and why this particular bass driver?
i guess that this kind of sub bass performance is only possible with alot of drivers in sealed or vented box,
or a horn design as you stated with much less drivers?
very interesting indeed
but i am not familiar with this software. nor with horns.
Is this a single horn drived by 4 drivers,
or 4 seperated horns?
then, what is the size of this horn ?
and why this particular bass driver?
i guess that this kind of sub bass performance is only possible with alot of drivers in sealed or vented box,
or a horn design as you stated with much less drivers?
JinMTVT said:
It's just a single subwoofer driver in a tapped horn, .. single fold, .. should be fairly easy to build, ...but make sure you match the driver to the horn (ask questions on the relevant thread) and brace it VERY well along the path.. There's a big thread on Tapped Horns in this forum, .. look towards the end and you will see some pictures.
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