Project started. This is my first active speaker building. My experience is only working with passive 2way speakers KIT. Need some help.
Faitalpro drivers 6RS140, 10RS350 purchased.
Tweeter has not yet been selected. I have SEAS 22TAF/G from passive 2way Troels kit with ca15rly. Should I buy other? Troels did with ScanSpeak D2608/913000. I am adding a photo from the ZaphAudio website. Left 22TAF/G and right D2608/913000.
Crossover points are planned as Troels did. 400hz and 2.4khz. Its Ok?
I planned to repeat the dimensions and box volumes of the Troels project Faitalpro 3WC but fully active.
Volume for 6RS140 closed box 6.5L. Ok?
Volume for 10RS350 bass reflex box 45L. Two bass tubes with size 70x220. Ok?
fo=70mm
L=219mm
fi=58mm
H=97mm
Now I'm waiting for the delivery of the 2х6 digital crossover.
The measuring microphone is available. I'm trying to learn REW. Little by little, something works.
Faitalpro drivers 6RS140, 10RS350 purchased.
Tweeter has not yet been selected. I have SEAS 22TAF/G from passive 2way Troels kit with ca15rly. Should I buy other? Troels did with ScanSpeak D2608/913000. I am adding a photo from the ZaphAudio website. Left 22TAF/G and right D2608/913000.
Crossover points are planned as Troels did. 400hz and 2.4khz. Its Ok?
I planned to repeat the dimensions and box volumes of the Troels project Faitalpro 3WC but fully active.
Volume for 6RS140 closed box 6.5L. Ok?
Volume for 10RS350 bass reflex box 45L. Two bass tubes with size 70x220. Ok?
fo=70mm
L=219mm
fi=58mm
H=97mm
Now I'm waiting for the delivery of the 2х6 digital crossover.
The measuring microphone is available. I'm trying to learn REW. Little by little, something works.
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Does this mean you want to copy Troels' slopes to active filters, and you don't need to measure your responses?
You mean LR2? To be honest, I don't know. I would also try LR4. I would like to get just a flat frequency response and, if necessary, correct it to my taste using a digital crossover. I especially want to control the bass in my small room.
I took these measurements from two meters, from the listening position. Speakers from last photo. Of course I plan to measure all drivers separately.
Left and right speaker.
Left speaker + PC EQ
I like your cat 😉
Dialling up LR2 or LR4 does not give that to you at your speakers. You are not going to experience LR2 or LR4 unless you can combine the existing responses of your drivers in cabinets with custom filters which make up the difference. This would either involve using a simulator, or working to a target you provide with your DSP, or measure as you go.
I guess the standard options are...
1. Copy Troels filters,
2. Design your crossover without measurement, or..
3. Measure and simulate.
Dialling up LR2 or LR4 does not give that to you at your speakers. You are not going to experience LR2 or LR4 unless you can combine the existing responses of your drivers in cabinets with custom filters which make up the difference. This would either involve using a simulator, or working to a target you provide with your DSP, or measure as you go.
I guess the standard options are...
1. Copy Troels filters,
2. Design your crossover without measurement, or..
3. Measure and simulate.
This cat 😊
To be honest, I don't know.
My plan was to repeat front panel dimensions, drivers placement on front panel, the box volumes, the poins of crossovers like Mr. Troels Gravesen did it with Faital 3WC.
I have the opportunity to measure each driver individually and after complete speaker.
If i wanna change the poin off crossover for example from 400HZ to 200HZ for B-M i need to change the volume for box? Is that what you are trying to say? Sorry. I have little experience. Newbie.
No. Just note that drivers roll themselves off at some higher and some lower frequency. What I'm saying that if you want a LR4 you have to notice that the driver is already part of the way there. You have to work out how far, and supply the rest with your crossover. If you just put in a LR4 with your DSP then it will be too steep, and the phase will not follow the other driver and the response will not complement the other.
What this also means is that Troels crossover has already taken this into account but what you do with your DSP has not... unless you either measure for yourself, which is good but is an involved process, or you tune by ear, which is good but less accurate, or you copy Troel's crossover which involves some work but will get you to a better result quicker.
What this also means is that Troels crossover has already taken this into account but what you do with your DSP has not... unless you either measure for yourself, which is good but is an involved process, or you tune by ear, which is good but less accurate, or you copy Troel's crossover which involves some work but will get you to a better result quicker.
On the faitalpro website, I found a list of dealers. I found a dealer closest to me and wrote to them. They confirmed the availability in the main warehouse in Italy and a month later I received the order.
Ok. Thanks. I just need to try and measure THD and other things like harmonics. I really not shore about LR2 + reverce polarity mid or LR4. Just need to start with something. Most of all I'm worried about boxes. I don't want make new ones. But I'm mentally already prepared for these adventures.
You seem concerned that LR4 is a greater shift than LR2, but that LR2 has reversed polarity and LR4 does not. This is not the case. LR4 is reversed twice. That does not make it right, it's still a larger shift than LR2.
Even still, they have both been used successfully in the past. I would just aim for one. LR4 is a common eventuality.
Here is an example of a fourth order rolloff I managed with just a first order filter... so there are times you may be pressed to consider a more steep rolloff.
Even still, they have both been used successfully in the past. I would just aim for one. LR4 is a common eventuality.
Here is an example of a fourth order rolloff I managed with just a first order filter... so there are times you may be pressed to consider a more steep rolloff.
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I'm pretty confused. I have little experience. I have questions.
1. Does the phase shift only applied to the slopes or on the entire driver when a crossover is applied?
2. I need to connect phese shift of buth drivers in point when its identical? This is why point of crossovers may change with different crossover slopes? Point of crossovers changes because drivers alredy have they own phase?
3. Using REW + calibrated microphone Sound ID refenece phase mesuaraments of drivers be accurate?
I am an electrician by profession. If not for this fact and I didn’t know at least something about voltage, it would be very difficult.
I tried to read some books but got confused. It's not as simple as one would like.
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The phase rotates near the slopes and is more straight away from the slopes.
Don't look at it like the tweeter is moving backwards, you can't hear that. Just know that as far as the response is concerned, the woofer and tweeter are working together.
Typically.
Not usually, but it can be one of the many reasons. Varying driver impedance and response not being taken into account, would be one.
Calibrated... does it have a USB connection?
Slowly, I'm starting to figure out how to work with the program. I learned today that it is necessary to use the loopback channel for accurate phase measurements in REW.
I found measurements from dibirama.altervista and they sound identical by THD at 90 db level. Looks like waterfall really looks 95% identical. 22TAF left any the 9130 right
But 9130 better if you want louder.
The problem with the 9130 is it has some issues up top and it doesn't sound as good as the data would make it appear.
If you want louder, a metal dome will sound better usually, as the breakup is less ie. Audax TW025A28 - my favorite metal dome by far.
If you want a good soft dome that will go loud and clean at a lower xover, I'd go with the Morel CAT378 or the MDT30. They have low overall THD and will do some insane dynamics, but the CAT378 will also cope with a fairly low 1st order filter thanks to the WG.
If you want louder, a metal dome will sound better usually, as the breakup is less ie. Audax TW025A28 - my favorite metal dome by far.
If you want a good soft dome that will go loud and clean at a lower xover, I'd go with the Morel CAT378 or the MDT30. They have low overall THD and will do some insane dynamics, but the CAT378 will also cope with a fairly low 1st order filter thanks to the WG.