Since I started playing around in Fusion360 and have a reliable 3D printer equipped guy, I would like to design my own 3D printed round-to-conical 1" compression driver adapter, that would allow mounting cardboard/EPS/plywood sides for easy construction. I think I saw something like that already, but I cannot find where it was.
What would be a good angle to start? 60x40, 60x60 or 90x60? And like with all my amateur 3D designs, I will be happy to share the result here.
What would be a good angle to start? 60x40, 60x60 or 90x60? And like with all my amateur 3D designs, I will be happy to share the result here.
Synergy horn - 3d printing entry?
all of those 3 angles work so whatever you need for your application. If well designed using nice drivers maximum output will be limited by the tweeter. Multiple narrow coverage boxes clustered can have a greater output as the energy from each tweeter is spread over a smaller solid angle. SH-60 gets good reviews so i would be tempted to make four of those to have flexible 60 or 120 degree horizontal coverage.
all of those 3 angles work so whatever you need for your application. If well designed using nice drivers maximum output will be limited by the tweeter. Multiple narrow coverage boxes clustered can have a greater output as the energy from each tweeter is spread over a smaller solid angle. SH-60 gets good reviews so i would be tempted to make four of those to have flexible 60 or 120 degree horizontal coverage.
Similar, but shorter and without the midrange mounting, that would be done with a separate print glued to the wall. Just the beginning of the conical section. I think I start with 60x40 and see how it looks like.
to me, 90x60 is a minimum. Narrow waveguides make the soundstage sound like a big set of headphones.
Are you thinking of Bil Waslo's horn stub?
Full-Range Synergy Kit Questions
The link to the STL is here: Index of /SynergyDIY/StubV6
Full-Range Synergy Kit Questions
The link to the STL is here: Index of /SynergyDIY/StubV6
With a 1" driver, I think you're going to want to put the midwoofer or midrange mounts as part the 3D printed piece, too. Otherwise it's going to be pretty difficult to get the midrange ports close enough to the 1" driver's diaphragm. The 1/4" reflection notch is something you can't get around.
I've actually had good luck avoiding the notch by putting the midbasses really far out.
Basically putting them so far out that they're barely radiating into the horn at all:
Basically putting them so far out that they're barely radiating into the horn at all:
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