Hello Guys,
I am putting together a Audio Note 300B Kit 1 but not from the kit. I purchased the PCB's from Ebay and separately all the components.
I will use toroidal transformers from Toroidy - pls see pictures.
In my mech engineer mind I liked the symmetry and designed in CAD the amp to respect this for a pleasing visual experience, I want the amp like this.
But since I am no specialist on the magnetic interferences ....etc - I hand over to you for some help to avoid doing mistakes.
Attached is the current layout in CAD:
- chassis is 480 x 388 - ordered but not arrived yet
- green = outside of the chassis - left and right OPT and middle MAINS - all 3 are SUPREME version toroidals with stainless cover and filled with epoxy; mounted from inside with only 1 screw
- blue = inside the chassis - D88 is the choke tranny and D80 is a 2x12V tranny for my dual VU system - analog and tube
- all other blue rectangles are PCB's also inside the chassis
- red - holes in the chassis where tubes are protruding outside
Initially I tried also to place symmetrically also the rectifier tube 5U4G but changed my mind unless I place it in front of the driver PCB.
I am putting together a Audio Note 300B Kit 1 but not from the kit. I purchased the PCB's from Ebay and separately all the components.
I will use toroidal transformers from Toroidy - pls see pictures.
In my mech engineer mind I liked the symmetry and designed in CAD the amp to respect this for a pleasing visual experience, I want the amp like this.
But since I am no specialist on the magnetic interferences ....etc - I hand over to you for some help to avoid doing mistakes.
Attached is the current layout in CAD:
- chassis is 480 x 388 - ordered but not arrived yet
- green = outside of the chassis - left and right OPT and middle MAINS - all 3 are SUPREME version toroidals with stainless cover and filled with epoxy; mounted from inside with only 1 screw
- blue = inside the chassis - D88 is the choke tranny and D80 is a 2x12V tranny for my dual VU system - analog and tube
- all other blue rectangles are PCB's also inside the chassis
- red - holes in the chassis where tubes are protruding outside
Initially I tried also to place symmetrically also the rectifier tube 5U4G but changed my mind unless I place it in front of the driver PCB.
Attachments
Are you asking a question?
I built a AN 300B Kit 1 a few years ago. It's used to bi-amp the top end of a pair of JBL speakers. It sounds great to me. I sold all my other speakers and settled on these for my main system, only because they sound great at the volume and music genre in the room I use them in.
As far as your design- go for it. Approved by one mechanical engineer to another.
I built a AN 300B Kit 1 a few years ago. It's used to bi-amp the top end of a pair of JBL speakers. It sounds great to me. I sold all my other speakers and settled on these for my main system, only because they sound great at the volume and music genre in the room I use them in.
As far as your design- go for it. Approved by one mechanical engineer to another.
Attachments
I'd be interested to know where you will get your round toroidal transformer covers from. I've been looking for some cheap and obvious ones from aluminium dishes, pots etc. ABS in black would be OK as well. I'm sure there's some obvious source for these but so far I haven't come across it. Maybe Toroidy do something.
Alternative is a large box covering all the transformers but round covers look nicer, especially stainless steel or something silver like anodised aluminium. Slight problem not shorting the top cap of the toroid to the chassis but that can be avoided.
Alternative is a large box covering all the transformers but round covers look nicer, especially stainless steel or something silver like anodised aluminium. Slight problem not shorting the top cap of the toroid to the chassis but that can be avoided.
I purchased the toroidal with the SS cover and epoxy inside, this is a premium version on Toroidy website...not so cheap
I'm sure there's a cheap solution - even the containers that various foods come in or the bottom of a plastic bottle. Would have to be sprayed matt black.
The dedicated covers are very expensive and that's not necessary.
The dedicated covers are very expensive and that's not necessary.
I was putting PVC drain coupling material on my list of things to "try out" for this purpose...
The PVC couplings can be cut to length on your miter saw and capped with wood or aluminum. Or a PVC cap my be just the right length.
4 inch material cap or coupling
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-4-in-PVC-DWV-Cap-PVC001161200HD/203393259
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-4-in-PVC-DWV-Coupling-PVC001001400HD/203390815
5 inch material cap or coupling
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-5-in-Schedule-40-PVC-Slip-Cap-447-050/203218378
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-5-in-Schedule-40-PVC-Coupling-SxS-429-050/203218376
6 inch material cap or coupling
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-6-in-PVC-DWV-Cap-PVC-00116-1400/203946149
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Charlotte-Pipe-6-in-PVC-DWV-Socket-Coupling-PVC00100600HD/203935557
There is also 3 inch and 8 inch etc.
The PVC can be sanded nice with a random orbital, then painted with a good oil based enamel. Interior can be lined with copper tape. Choose the inside diameter closest to the toroid.
