UPS power supply
Speaking of UPSs, it seems the battery thing is a concern of many, and Ive found a very nice solution to it. I bought an APC Back -Up 280 used and pulled it apart. I found a nice 12V 7AH battery, two nice transformers and a very good looking PCB in it. After testing, it appears that when plugged into the wall, the unit is always charging the battery, but uses a variable charging scheme depending on the drain on the battery. If the unit is turned on, and the AC interupted, a buzzer sounds and inverted AC comes out the plugs. If the unit is off, nothing happens when the AC is disconnected. I checked the board and found one pair of wires attached to the battery and it. The board is always energized regardless of the AC to it or the on/off switch position. So I re-routed the 115 into the unit through half a DPDT power switch. Then I re-routed the 12V+ through the other half of the switch, with one return to the board and one to a newly installed DC out XLR. Now I leave the unit pluged it and always charging with the UPS function off. I flip the new switch, it disconnects the AC and hence the PCB and charging circuitry, and at the same time switches the DC from being connected to the board, to just the DC out. An additional wire is run from the DC- battery post to the DC out. Not sure yet if leaving the DC- connected is causing a noise problem. Maybe acting like an antenna. If so, I will use a 3PDT and add the ground too.
Im going to finish the case up and post a pic. Works great and looks nice. Manufactured case with heavy AC wire plug, fused and backup AC if needed as well. Heres the newer version of mine.
http://www.upsforless.com/product8.html
amt
Speaking of UPSs, it seems the battery thing is a concern of many, and Ive found a very nice solution to it. I bought an APC Back -Up 280 used and pulled it apart. I found a nice 12V 7AH battery, two nice transformers and a very good looking PCB in it. After testing, it appears that when plugged into the wall, the unit is always charging the battery, but uses a variable charging scheme depending on the drain on the battery. If the unit is turned on, and the AC interupted, a buzzer sounds and inverted AC comes out the plugs. If the unit is off, nothing happens when the AC is disconnected. I checked the board and found one pair of wires attached to the battery and it. The board is always energized regardless of the AC to it or the on/off switch position. So I re-routed the 115 into the unit through half a DPDT power switch. Then I re-routed the 12V+ through the other half of the switch, with one return to the board and one to a newly installed DC out XLR. Now I leave the unit pluged it and always charging with the UPS function off. I flip the new switch, it disconnects the AC and hence the PCB and charging circuitry, and at the same time switches the DC from being connected to the board, to just the DC out. An additional wire is run from the DC- battery post to the DC out. Not sure yet if leaving the DC- connected is causing a noise problem. Maybe acting like an antenna. If so, I will use a 3PDT and add the ground too.
Im going to finish the case up and post a pic. Works great and looks nice. Manufactured case with heavy AC wire plug, fused and backup AC if needed as well. Heres the newer version of mine.
http://www.upsforless.com/product8.html
amt
Variac said:
I've got (3) SI's on order (back ordered) and Art's case kit enroute.
I have a Bottlehead Foreplay that I plan on using with the SI.
Has anyone tried the Foreplay / SI combo?
Hey Folks,
I'm seriously thinking of taking on this product, but with a twist..
I dont have very good or extensively modded hifi gear, but everyone has to start somewhere, right?
basically I have an arcam 8r amplifier & B&W 602 speakers.
Im planning on using the 8r as a pre amp, so that is the lack of input switchin problem sorted 🙂
Now comes the interesting part..
I originally thought that id buy 2 and place them in 1 box (linking their input wires so that only one RCA connector was necessary & replacing speaker clips with binding posts) and run the 2 positives and 2 negative speaker outputs to the 4 posts on the back of my speakers.
I then thought that I might be better off with 4 in the one box (or even two), so that 2 amps feed one set of + & - speaker out puts. Is this possible?
Cheers
Mark
I'm seriously thinking of taking on this product, but with a twist..
I dont have very good or extensively modded hifi gear, but everyone has to start somewhere, right?
basically I have an arcam 8r amplifier & B&W 602 speakers.
Im planning on using the 8r as a pre amp, so that is the lack of input switchin problem sorted 🙂
Now comes the interesting part..
I originally thought that id buy 2 and place them in 1 box (linking their input wires so that only one RCA connector was necessary & replacing speaker clips with binding posts) and run the 2 positives and 2 negative speaker outputs to the 4 posts on the back of my speakers.
I then thought that I might be better off with 4 in the one box (or even two), so that 2 amps feed one set of + & - speaker out puts. Is this possible?
Cheers
Mark
Commited said:
No. As was mentioned earlier in this thread (I just finished reading the whole thing and don't remember which page it was) the TA2024 is already a two channel bridged amplifier. Interestingly enough, Tripath also offers the TA2024B which is NOT a two channel bridged amplifier. If this chip were substituted for the TA2024 one could bridge the outputs. That would be quite interesting to see how something like that would turn out.
ahh ok 🙂
I think ill go the bi-amped route then
Anyone know anywhere that has them in stock?
Anywhere to get them in Europe?😕
I think ill go the bi-amped route then
Anyone know anywhere that has them in stock?
Anywhere to get them in Europe?😕
I was looking on the tri-path website (which seriously needs an update :s ) and it said the TA2024 was bridged and the TA2024B had bridged outputs.
I assume that just confirms that the TA2024B is bridgeable - ie that I could run 2 bridged for HF and 2 bridged or LF (ie 4in total)?
I assume that just confirms that the TA2024B is bridgeable - ie that I could run 2 bridged for HF and 2 bridged or LF (ie 4in total)?
Hi Mark (commited),
I see you are in the same part of the world as me - I was thinking of ordering some sonic impact amps from the US or working on building up some tripath chips into full amps (although I don't think individuals can order chips from Tripath).
Drop me an email if you are interested in any joint purchases
John
I see you are in the same part of the world as me - I was thinking of ordering some sonic impact amps from the US or working on building up some tripath chips into full amps (although I don't think individuals can order chips from Tripath).
Drop me an email if you are interested in any joint purchases
John
Just FYI,
Ive been using what I consider to be the third version of the Sonic board(at least that seen). The newest one, as with the second, is an improvement over its predecessor. The boards are cleaner, with even less solder mess, they appear to have nice copper traces and two big diodes have made their way to the top of the board, and two on the solder side.
Nice to see that they are constantly improving them. They are obviously in this for the long haul or I doubt they would bother.
amt
Ive been using what I consider to be the third version of the Sonic board(at least that seen). The newest one, as with the second, is an improvement over its predecessor. The boards are cleaner, with even less solder mess, they appear to have nice copper traces and two big diodes have made their way to the top of the board, and two on the solder side.
Nice to see that they are constantly improving them. They are obviously in this for the long haul or I doubt they would bother.
amt
New circuit board
I have a pair purchased a couple weeks back from PCMall. I think they are the latest, they were out of stock at the time of the order.
I am using some full range Lowthers, 15 ohm drivers and 100 dB efficient.
First tried was standard alkaline batteries, then a RS 13.5 VOLT, 1000 ma supply, a 13.8 volt 1700 ma supply from Partsexpress, and now some better rechargeable AA batteries.
The RS supply made the sound edgy, I got a faint headache even if the unit was not playing music. Seemed to be beaming ultrasonics. The regular AA were softer and did not seem to cause headaches.
The impedance of the speakers is rated low, at the mids and highs they are 30 - 40 ohms. I think this high impedance load is maybe causing the SI to ring a little.
But with the larger supply the ringing seems to be mostly gone, maybe a little edgy now. Took the RS supply back for refund so I cannot compare.
But the camera batteries are the best yet. These were on sale last week at Fry's. Four 2400 maH batteries and charger for 12.95. The sound is full and non-fatiguing with these.
Hope to rebox and perform a couple tweaks soon to further improve the sonics.
The sound is still not up to my Hirage Le Monstre. But it did not sound so good at first either. It took months of diddling around to get it sounding great.
Waiting for another pair of SI's from PCMall. The dc offset is what I am looking at, the first pair were 20 and 100 mV DC on one and 40 and 70 mV on the other. Would like to find a pair more like 20/20 or lower. The supply voltage does not seem to effect this like I expected. The alkaline batteries had the same offset as the 13.5 v charger.
But considering that with the stocker and the 2400 maH batteries sounding like, this has to be the biggest bargain ever in audio. The battries and little SI are about 50.00 total.
George
amt said:
I have a pair purchased a couple weeks back from PCMall. I think they are the latest, they were out of stock at the time of the order.
I am using some full range Lowthers, 15 ohm drivers and 100 dB efficient.
First tried was standard alkaline batteries, then a RS 13.5 VOLT, 1000 ma supply, a 13.8 volt 1700 ma supply from Partsexpress, and now some better rechargeable AA batteries.
The RS supply made the sound edgy, I got a faint headache even if the unit was not playing music. Seemed to be beaming ultrasonics. The regular AA were softer and did not seem to cause headaches.
The impedance of the speakers is rated low, at the mids and highs they are 30 - 40 ohms. I think this high impedance load is maybe causing the SI to ring a little.
But with the larger supply the ringing seems to be mostly gone, maybe a little edgy now. Took the RS supply back for refund so I cannot compare.
But the camera batteries are the best yet. These were on sale last week at Fry's. Four 2400 maH batteries and charger for 12.95. The sound is full and non-fatiguing with these.
Hope to rebox and perform a couple tweaks soon to further improve the sonics.
The sound is still not up to my Hirage Le Monstre. But it did not sound so good at first either. It took months of diddling around to get it sounding great.
Waiting for another pair of SI's from PCMall. The dc offset is what I am looking at, the first pair were 20 and 100 mV DC on one and 40 and 70 mV on the other. Would like to find a pair more like 20/20 or lower. The supply voltage does not seem to effect this like I expected. The alkaline batteries had the same offset as the 13.5 v charger.
But considering that with the stocker and the 2400 maH batteries sounding like, this has to be the biggest bargain ever in audio. The battries and little SI are about 50.00 total.
George
I've been waiting for my (3) SI's to show up from PCMall for almost a month now. At least I hope to get the latest rev (if that's a good thing)
AMT CASE:
I received amt's case yesterday and you've got to see it to believe it. I ordered the full monte with pot, binding posts, rca, xlr, polishing, drilled holes, knob etc., etc. This case is SOLID and very pretty to look at. Some of the details include beveled edges on the feet, hex head feet screws, a color hookup diagram and some instructions for the care of the polished aluminum. There are some marks in the aluminum but these are part of the metal's grain and don't significantly detract from the case's appearance. The only thing that could've been added would be some white cotton gloves for handling this piece of audio art.
The fact that AMT was great to deal with was just a bonus. I'm thinking about buying another before he realizes that these are too good of a deal.
AMT CASE:
I received amt's case yesterday and you've got to see it to believe it. I ordered the full monte with pot, binding posts, rca, xlr, polishing, drilled holes, knob etc., etc. This case is SOLID and very pretty to look at. Some of the details include beveled edges on the feet, hex head feet screws, a color hookup diagram and some instructions for the care of the polished aluminum. There are some marks in the aluminum but these are part of the metal's grain and don't significantly detract from the case's appearance. The only thing that could've been added would be some white cotton gloves for handling this piece of audio art.
The fact that AMT was great to deal with was just a bonus. I'm thinking about buying another before he realizes that these are too good of a deal.
amt case
Fredd, how much did the amt case run with all those options bundled in (pot, binding posts, etc.)? Definately interested!
Travis
Fredd, how much did the amt case run with all those options bundled in (pot, binding posts, etc.)? Definately interested!
Travis
Re: amt case
It was about $160 shipped, but check with AMT to make sure you know exactly what you're getting and what the cost is.
tleonard said:
It was about $160 shipped, but check with AMT to make sure you know exactly what you're getting and what the cost is.
hey folks,
Back with a few more questions - and as i'm from europe I dont have the great access to Radioshack etc that you all enjoy!
Now i've decided to buy two of these wonder amps and run them "bi-amped", using my Arcam 8r as a preamp.
I'm going to modify it and re-house it, whilst changing speaker clips for Binding posts, changing headphone jack for a pair of RCAs and changing the wiring inside, and also want to do some other mods to improve the sound bu have a few questions:
1. I was going to use a 5a 13.8v regulated powersupply - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=231&TabID=1&source=15&WorldID=&doy=22m1 - will this be enough to power the two? I dont really want to mess about with SLA batteries etc as I generally listen to my hifi for about 8hours at a time!
2. I want to take the pot out of the equation as i dont need it (use vol control on pre) - how do I do it and what do i need (read something about a shunt regulator but went straight over my head)? I read in another forum that someone was using a pre-amp, but had the pot set to 10 o clock which reduced the distortion (i dont want it to go over the 5w mark really) - so would removing the pot be a bad idea for this reason or would a suitable resistor help with this? I dont really want the hassle of trying to match 2 volume outputs perfectly.
3. I want to use a switch to turn the two on and off rather then the way the pot does it now - how do i do this?
4. The way im planning on bi-amping is to connect the two imputs of the amplifier to the RCA connectors so that i can just use an interconnect between it and the pre-amp - I assume this will work ok - yes?
Sorry if the above is ridiculous/stupid - just a few questions 🙂 If you dont ask you dont learn 😀
Back with a few more questions - and as i'm from europe I dont have the great access to Radioshack etc that you all enjoy!
Now i've decided to buy two of these wonder amps and run them "bi-amped", using my Arcam 8r as a preamp.
I'm going to modify it and re-house it, whilst changing speaker clips for Binding posts, changing headphone jack for a pair of RCAs and changing the wiring inside, and also want to do some other mods to improve the sound bu have a few questions:
1. I was going to use a 5a 13.8v regulated powersupply - http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=231&TabID=1&source=15&WorldID=&doy=22m1 - will this be enough to power the two? I dont really want to mess about with SLA batteries etc as I generally listen to my hifi for about 8hours at a time!
2. I want to take the pot out of the equation as i dont need it (use vol control on pre) - how do I do it and what do i need (read something about a shunt regulator but went straight over my head)? I read in another forum that someone was using a pre-amp, but had the pot set to 10 o clock which reduced the distortion (i dont want it to go over the 5w mark really) - so would removing the pot be a bad idea for this reason or would a suitable resistor help with this? I dont really want the hassle of trying to match 2 volume outputs perfectly.
3. I want to use a switch to turn the two on and off rather then the way the pot does it now - how do i do this?
4. The way im planning on bi-amping is to connect the two imputs of the amplifier to the RCA connectors so that i can just use an interconnect between it and the pre-amp - I assume this will work ok - yes?
Sorry if the above is ridiculous/stupid - just a few questions 🙂 If you dont ask you dont learn 😀
Suddenly the SI t-amps are not available anywhere that I can find other than direct from SI.
Anybody want to sell a new SI spare to me?
I can do Paypal.
Anybody want to sell a new SI spare to me?
I can do Paypal.
availability
Never dealt with them before, but these guys show stock:
http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/sit5066.html
I'm amazed at the others being out of stock - Thinkgeek, Target, Amazon and PCMall are all showing on back order with 2+ week ship times, or no ship time at all.
We must be bleeding stock of these amps dry! I personally purchased 2 - both are currently stock and awaiting transplant (starts tomorrow perhaps). One is fully burned in, the other still in the box - will be interesting to test the difference burnin has made. Subjectively I've been quite amazed at improvement in sound quality with breakin, so will be interestting to A/B it.
Am running my Wharfedale Diamond 8 center channel bi-amped/bi-wired in my workout room and it drives the 88 dB sensitivity speaker just fine off a micro-size MuVO MP3 player. I'll have to check out how it works off of a real line input tomorrow.
Commited - I've been running off a 1amp power supply without any issues, so 5amps would provide enough power to drive at least 4 units - maybe even 5 to run full SI surround sound!
Never dealt with them before, but these guys show stock:
http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/sit5066.html
I'm amazed at the others being out of stock - Thinkgeek, Target, Amazon and PCMall are all showing on back order with 2+ week ship times, or no ship time at all.
We must be bleeding stock of these amps dry! I personally purchased 2 - both are currently stock and awaiting transplant (starts tomorrow perhaps). One is fully burned in, the other still in the box - will be interesting to test the difference burnin has made. Subjectively I've been quite amazed at improvement in sound quality with breakin, so will be interestting to A/B it.
Am running my Wharfedale Diamond 8 center channel bi-amped/bi-wired in my workout room and it drives the 88 dB sensitivity speaker just fine off a micro-size MuVO MP3 player. I'll have to check out how it works off of a real line input tomorrow.
Commited - I've been running off a 1amp power supply without any issues, so 5amps would provide enough power to drive at least 4 units - maybe even 5 to run full SI surround sound!
Re: availability
Grrrrr...they're out too. Sounds like SI stock might be a good buy.😀
tleonard said:
Grrrrr...they're out too. Sounds like SI stock might be a good buy.😀Re: availability
Excellent 🙂 Thankee
Can anyone answer the rest of my questions?
tleonard said:
Excellent 🙂 Thankee
Can anyone answer the rest of my questions?
Disassembly
I have decided to pull one of mine apart to work it over. Armed with the Tripath data sheet for the 2024 it looks easy.
But how do you split the 19.95 plastic wonder? Removed the two small screws by the batteries, but it is still holding together.
What is the trick?
George
I have decided to pull one of mine apart to work it over. Armed with the Tripath data sheet for the 2024 it looks easy.
But how do you split the 19.95 plastic wonder? Removed the two small screws by the batteries, but it is still holding together.
What is the trick?
George
There are 4 screws, one under each of the rubber feet. Also, a member made a page about his modding experience 🙂
http://members.tripod.com/talkgarden/si_5066_pg_5.htm
http://members.tripod.com/talkgarden/si_5066_pg_5.htm
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