The help section on the program describes most of the charts.
36W is the signal power level, before you dump a lot more into your DSP/boost design. The apparent load power shows that, you're using 240 watts down low.
I'd suggest you raise the fp on your linkwitz transform to 40hz. You'll raise amp power at xmax up to 75w or so and get 3 more db.
I'm guessing you're focusing on the -3 db point. Don't. You're building a sealed box. The roll-off is shallower than a ported box. -6 db is more relevant and better represents how it will sound in a room.
Like Juhazi said, just go build the thing. You're going to learn way more as you measure, design DSP filters, measure again, adjust, etc. etc.
36W is the signal power level, before you dump a lot more into your DSP/boost design. The apparent load power shows that, you're using 240 watts down low.
I'd suggest you raise the fp on your linkwitz transform to 40hz. You'll raise amp power at xmax up to 75w or so and get 3 more db.
I'm guessing you're focusing on the -3 db point. Don't. You're building a sealed box. The roll-off is shallower than a ported box. -6 db is more relevant and better represents how it will sound in a room.
Like Juhazi said, just go build the thing. You're going to learn way more as you measure, design DSP filters, measure again, adjust, etc. etc.
Everything has been ordered.
The Valchromat order is pre cut - some parts to exact size, some will be trimmed to exact during assembly.
The active build stage is on!
The Valchromat order is pre cut - some parts to exact size, some will be trimmed to exact during assembly.
The active build stage is on!
I was, rightly or wrongly, just trying what output I can get for 30Hz. That f point is not based on anything and may be way too low for these small drivers. But the simulation did not throw anything that I saw as unachievable, again rightly or wrongly. I know that I will have to reduce the output to account for room gain. I will also try your recommendation to center on lower f e.g. 40Hz.The help section on the program describes most of the charts.
36W is the signal power level, before you dump a lot more into your DSP/boost design. The apparent load power shows that, you're using 240 watts down low.
I'd suggest you raise the fp on your linkwitz transform to 40hz. You'll raise amp power at xmax up to 75w or so and get 3 more db.
I'm guessing you're focusing on the -3 db point. Don't. You're building a sealed box. The roll-off is shallower than a ported box. -6 db is more relevant and better represents how it will sound in a room.
Like Juhazi said, just go build the thing. You're going to learn way more as you measure, design DSP filters, measure again, adjust, etc.
Fair enough. I wasn't sure what you found unbelievable about your simulation, so I tried a couple things.
Hit a bit of a delay. The person who is helping me with woodwork is busy and then on holiday, so waiting time of about 3 weeks 😒.
In the meantime, I am thinking over the next project:
In the meantime, I am thinking over the next project:
While waiting to finish my learning project (thread link) I am starting to think over what my next project could be. I must be enjoying it!
My mostly used current pair of speakers is Genelecs 6010A in the kitchen - these are playing almost all the time when we are at home. As you know these are very small, the smallest Genelec make - 3in mid-woofer, 25W amps, 20cm tall.
I was thinking to build a small sub to complement them, but another option could be making a new small (abt 35cm tall) 2-way based on a slightly larger (5-6in?) high-excursion midwoofer with Hypex FA122 or FA252. I...
My mostly used current pair of speakers is Genelecs 6010A in the kitchen - these are playing almost all the time when we are at home. As you know these are very small, the smallest Genelec make - 3in mid-woofer, 25W amps, 20cm tall.
I was thinking to build a small sub to complement them, but another option could be making a new small (abt 35cm tall) 2-way based on a slightly larger (5-6in?) high-excursion midwoofer with Hypex FA122 or FA252. I...
The old speakers disassembled and ready for cabinet mods.
These mid drivers are actually decent, so available to anyone here who wants them for the cost of shipping. Tweeters, ports and terminals included.
These mid drivers are actually decent, so available to anyone here who wants them for the cost of shipping. Tweeters, ports and terminals included.
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Looks like the veneer is holding up nicely.
Curious what you’re planning for bracing?
Is the front panel 1/2” ?
Curious what you’re planning for bracing?
Is the front panel 1/2” ?
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There will be a 19mm partition LF/MF and 6 x 19mm braces. 1 inside the MF and 5 x inside the LF chamber.
All walls age getting +8mm on the inside.
Back panel will be 19mm+12mm with the amp enclosure on it, partly sunk.
There is a sketch a few posts above (some dimensions changed since).
All walls age getting +8mm on the inside.
Back panel will be 19mm+12mm with the amp enclosure on it, partly sunk.
There is a sketch a few posts above (some dimensions changed since).
I hope not, as they are straight rectangles going along or between the existing walls. Rounded shapes and routing are trickier, especially for first timers.
We did do practice runs with the driver holes on MDF. The Valchromat is noticeably better for machining. Holds edge shape perfecrly.
We did do practice runs with the driver holes on MDF. The Valchromat is noticeably better for machining. Holds edge shape perfecrly.
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The existing front panel is 12mm and it is getting a new 19mm one on top, so total 31mm. Possibly 1mm rubber between.Looks like the veneer is holding up nicely.
Curious what you’re planning for bracing?
Is the front panel 1/2” ?
The veneer is indeed holding. And there are no cuts that will be visible anyway.
The cabinet turned out to be very well put together, if a bit thin-walled.
Turns out the estimation of woodwork time was in fact wrong by a factor of 3.
But, all the cutting and routing is now complete.
Old panel infill and driver cutouts:
But, all the cutting and routing is now complete.
Old panel infill and driver cutouts:
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