Hi All,
I am new to all of this, never before have I made a speaker but would like to try. I don't completely understand everything but I'm keen to make this Bluetooth speaker.
This is the list of parts I'm planning on buying please can somebody please tell me if this will work.
I don't have a big budget, trying to keep things on the cheap side, and because it's my first ever build if I mess something up don't want it to be pricey.
ZK-1002L MINI Bluetooth 5.0 DC 5-24V Wireless Audio Digital Power Amplifier StV7 194912630292 | eBay
QTX 3 Way Crossover - 3-way 6dB, 8 Ohms, 400W 5015972052945 | eBay
Professional 8" Inch 8 Ohm Replacement Speaker Cone Woofer Driver Spare Part 5055839136586 | eBay
Black 166mm 6.5 inch 60w RMS Bass Mid Range Round Speaker Driver 8 ohms | eBay
Piezo horn speaker tweeter piezoelectric head driver loudspeaker treble H BwZSK | eBay
https://uk.deals2mall.com/18650-3s2p...y-charger.html
Should I do this with the crossover or maybe a 2.1 amp?
Do I have to connect both channels on the amp or not? will it get damaged if I only use one channel?
Can I connect one channel to a crossover and the other channel straight into a woofer?
I understand I have a lot to learn and any help and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you
I am new to all of this, never before have I made a speaker but would like to try. I don't completely understand everything but I'm keen to make this Bluetooth speaker.
This is the list of parts I'm planning on buying please can somebody please tell me if this will work.
I don't have a big budget, trying to keep things on the cheap side, and because it's my first ever build if I mess something up don't want it to be pricey.
ZK-1002L MINI Bluetooth 5.0 DC 5-24V Wireless Audio Digital Power Amplifier StV7 194912630292 | eBay
QTX 3 Way Crossover - 3-way 6dB, 8 Ohms, 400W 5015972052945 | eBay
Professional 8" Inch 8 Ohm Replacement Speaker Cone Woofer Driver Spare Part 5055839136586 | eBay
Black 166mm 6.5 inch 60w RMS Bass Mid Range Round Speaker Driver 8 ohms | eBay
Piezo horn speaker tweeter piezoelectric head driver loudspeaker treble H BwZSK | eBay
https://uk.deals2mall.com/18650-3s2p...y-charger.html
Should I do this with the crossover or maybe a 2.1 amp?
Do I have to connect both channels on the amp or not? will it get damaged if I only use one channel?
Can I connect one channel to a crossover and the other channel straight into a woofer?
I understand I have a lot to learn and any help and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you
Pechula, when you need to post in another area, just report your post (red triangle) and ask. We can move the thread and save you the extra work.
Ok, now we are here...multi way
So, we've got 3 speakers, bass-mid-high, a crossover ( 6 dB/octave slope)and an amplifier and...a battery. The battery is 12V; this is important when choosing ( setting) the impedance of the speaker system. Usually for lower supply voltage, such as 12V, the choice is for 4Ω speakers, as in car audio. This way you'll get more output from the speakers - and more current suction from the amplifier.
Now it starts the crazy part!
The crossover must be specified for the desired load. A coil ( inductor)calculated for a 4 Ω load doesn't do the same job on a 8Ω load, and viceversa. Same for capacitors.
A 6 dB/oct crossover for a woofer consists in an inductor, which performs the low-pass
A 6 dB/oct crossover for a tweeter is a capacitor - the high pass
A 6 dB/oct crossover for a midrange consists in a high pass and a low pass - so a capacitor and an inductor. Sometimes a resistor is needed ( or two resistors making a divider ) to set the level ( mid and tweeter).
So a 3 way crossover contains three paths, all originating from the input. For saying, you can slap the inductor on one channel ( woofer) and a capacitor ( or two capacitors, as the input for the mid and the tweeter paths) on the other, just make sure to break the joints at crossover's input between the paths, because I don't know how the amplifier operates ( channels may have the 'black' in common, or not...) .
There's also the filtering before the amplifier.
One last thing: the midrange might be ok, but for the woofer I'd choose a rubber surround suspension ( it makes more bass!)
So, we've got 3 speakers, bass-mid-high, a crossover ( 6 dB/octave slope)and an amplifier and...a battery. The battery is 12V; this is important when choosing ( setting) the impedance of the speaker system. Usually for lower supply voltage, such as 12V, the choice is for 4Ω speakers, as in car audio. This way you'll get more output from the speakers - and more current suction from the amplifier.
Now it starts the crazy part!
The crossover must be specified for the desired load. A coil ( inductor)calculated for a 4 Ω load doesn't do the same job on a 8Ω load, and viceversa. Same for capacitors.
A 6 dB/oct crossover for a woofer consists in an inductor, which performs the low-pass
A 6 dB/oct crossover for a tweeter is a capacitor - the high pass
A 6 dB/oct crossover for a midrange consists in a high pass and a low pass - so a capacitor and an inductor. Sometimes a resistor is needed ( or two resistors making a divider ) to set the level ( mid and tweeter).
So a 3 way crossover contains three paths, all originating from the input. For saying, you can slap the inductor on one channel ( woofer) and a capacitor ( or two capacitors, as the input for the mid and the tweeter paths) on the other, just make sure to break the joints at crossover's input between the paths, because I don't know how the amplifier operates ( channels may have the 'black' in common, or not...) .
There's also the filtering before the amplifier.
One last thing: the midrange might be ok, but for the woofer I'd choose a rubber surround suspension ( it makes more bass!)
I was watching a video @ Transforming dead earbuds into POWERFUL wireless speakers - YouTube
and the guy puts some filters ( low and high pass ) before each channel of the amplifier, at minute 8:00 ( a little before, say 7:52
)
When you have an 8" woofer, a 6.5" mid is big.
Have you checked the sensitivity of each driver (how loud they are on their own).
Your piezo tweeter could be an unusual choice, may not be under the control of the crossover you list.
Have you checked the sensitivity of each driver (how loud they are on their own).
Your piezo tweeter could be an unusual choice, may not be under the control of the crossover you list.
Two probs: The crossover isn't suitable for a piezo; There are no T/S parameters for the other drivers on the sellers sites.
You appear to have bought on price; perhaps if you tell us your budget we can make better suggestions
You appear to have bought on price; perhaps if you tell us your budget we can make better suggestions
Hi,
Thank you all for your feedback, I appreciate that.
PeteMcK yes, you are correct I am buying on price and I'm looking to be around £100.
I'm not trying to build something spectacular, just trying to see if I can do it, to build some confidence and if I make any mistakes not to be overly expensive and to learn for my next build if I'm gonna do it.
Yes, I would take any suggestions if you have, please.
Someone told me to buy a second-hand speaker and try modifying it.
So I'm looking now at something like this
and maybe throwing into it an amp and a battery for the first time.
Vintage Panasonic Speaker System SB-ZM52 200W Peak 8 Ohms Loud Speakers Tested | eBay
What do you guys think?
Thank you all for your feedback, I appreciate that.
PeteMcK yes, you are correct I am buying on price and I'm looking to be around £100.
I'm not trying to build something spectacular, just trying to see if I can do it, to build some confidence and if I make any mistakes not to be overly expensive and to learn for my next build if I'm gonna do it.
Yes, I would take any suggestions if you have, please.
Someone told me to buy a second-hand speaker and try modifying it.
So I'm looking now at something like this
and maybe throwing into it an amp and a battery for the first time.
Vintage Panasonic Speaker System SB-ZM52 200W Peak 8 Ohms Loud Speakers Tested | eBay
What do you guys think?
' buy a second-hand speaker and try modifying it' - a good way to start if they're not expensive; not those ones though - looks like there's no driver in one of the cabs!
ebay gets you random parts with random performance. You need to buy from a vendor that will sell name brands that have a specification table that provides at a minimum sensitivity, resistance, inductance, Qt, Vas. These provide you values that you plug in simulators or equations to predict performance. Then you can calculate the box size, port size if any, and crossover part values. Ebay can provide used drivers of a known brand and part number, but they might be counterfeit or the parameters might have changed over the production years. Ebay is not good for used speaker boxes because of the shipping and the hidden location. Gumtree in UK is better for used speakers. I've bought some used speakers off craigslist, but I listened to them with an amp & a CD to make sure garbage drivers weren't substituted for proper originals. Or at L50 you can get a box you can load up.
If you want something cheap go with a single coax 8" driver like the visaton or eminence coaxials. Only box size needs to be calculated. Money spent on random crossovers for unknown drivers in a 3 way is money wasted. A single driver with mdf sheet, stuffing and a saw & drill you might come in under L100.
My friend built a 4 way in 1972 with bargain drivers from allied radio catalog, and it sounded horrible. My 2 way LWEIII speaker cost about the same but was engineered by Mr. Erath and sounded pretty good.
If you want something cheap go with a single coax 8" driver like the visaton or eminence coaxials. Only box size needs to be calculated. Money spent on random crossovers for unknown drivers in a 3 way is money wasted. A single driver with mdf sheet, stuffing and a saw & drill you might come in under L100.
My friend built a 4 way in 1972 with bargain drivers from allied radio catalog, and it sounded horrible. My 2 way LWEIII speaker cost about the same but was engineered by Mr. Erath and sounded pretty good.
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Thank you for the advice.
I have had a think and decided to go with modifying a speaker rather than building one myself.
Now I know this is a thread for a 3 way but I found one 2 way speaker that is quite cheap and would like to put a Bluetooth amp in it and a battery, or a Bluetooth module an amp, and a battery.
Any suggestions on these parts?
This is the speaker, I am going to use only 1 of them
Technics SB-CA01A 2 Way Speaker system 100W Input - Working *Read Description* | eBay
I have had a think and decided to go with modifying a speaker rather than building one myself.
Now I know this is a thread for a 3 way but I found one 2 way speaker that is quite cheap and would like to put a Bluetooth amp in it and a battery, or a Bluetooth module an amp, and a battery.
Any suggestions on these parts?
This is the speaker, I am going to use only 1 of them
Technics SB-CA01A 2 Way Speaker system 100W Input - Working *Read Description* | eBay
The techniques is a bargain, but not with a 4" woofer. I can't tell what it has got but that tweeter is suspiciously close to 2/3 the size of the woofer. I bought some speakers with a 8" woofer, a 2" tweeter & a 1.5" tweeter for $5 the pair at Salvation Army resale shop while I was looking for SP2-XT to replace mine that were stolen.
I really liked my SP2-XT, and they were 2 way. Very accurate on Steinway grand piano, which is a tough test you can do without instruments.
$5 speakers had boomy bass and not ideal uppers but for $5 they were a lot better than the 1"x3" speakers in a 32" flat screen TV. Get out and look around at boot sales & resale shops. Most of the L19 of that techniques is freight.
I can't give recommendations on bluetooth amp because Part-express that sells usually working stuff is in the USA. No sense paying double import duties, + 2000 miles freight. Farnell sometimes has demonstration boards, and a little consumer gear, look at their website. They have their big warehouse in SE UK. I've gotten no trash from them. Sometimes their pricing is a little blah, but when they are closing out a line they seriously discount it to get rid of it.
I really liked my SP2-XT, and they were 2 way. Very accurate on Steinway grand piano, which is a tough test you can do without instruments.
$5 speakers had boomy bass and not ideal uppers but for $5 they were a lot better than the 1"x3" speakers in a 32" flat screen TV. Get out and look around at boot sales & resale shops. Most of the L19 of that techniques is freight.
I can't give recommendations on bluetooth amp because Part-express that sells usually working stuff is in the USA. No sense paying double import duties, + 2000 miles freight. Farnell sometimes has demonstration boards, and a little consumer gear, look at their website. They have their big warehouse in SE UK. I've gotten no trash from them. Sometimes their pricing is a little blah, but when they are closing out a line they seriously discount it to get rid of it.
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Thanks for that, you can still tell me what you think of the bt amp and battery, give me a suggestion of what would you use in the US and I could try and find the same specs here maybe?
Well, this 60 w amp board with blue tooth from parts-express.com requires an external power supply but is $36. Dayton Audio KAB-60M 1x60W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0
This one is 100 W, a bit much for a $3 speaker: Dayton Audio KAB-100M 1x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0
farnell has this class D audio board in stock in the UK requires external power supply https://www.newark.com/maxim-integr...brd-class-d-audio-power-amplifier/dp/14AC4450 $69 no bluetooth
This one is at farnell USA and is $127 requires external power supply no bluetooth https://www.newark.com/texas-instru...142-audio/dp/18M3146?st=audio amplifier board
Here is a farnell 90 W bluetooth amplfier $39 in box with PS https://www.newark.com/pyle/pfa330bt/90w-compact-amplifier-with-bluetooth/dp/31AC3814
here is a farnell 2X15 w bluetooth amplifier $27 in box with PS https://www.newark.com/mcm-custom-audio/50-14843/ultra-compact-15w-rms-x-2ch-amplifier/dp/25AC5144
Farnell has a program where they ship UK stock to the US with a four day delay for no charge. You pay for the box from the US warehouse to your house, usually about $9. I suspect farnell UK has a similar program.
You can look at the farnell stock by clicking all products, then audio/video products, then pro amplifiers, the click stock only box. These amplifiers are not professional grade, I don't know what they were thinking.
Happy shopping & building.
This one is 100 W, a bit much for a $3 speaker: Dayton Audio KAB-100M 1x100W Class D Audio Amplifier Board with Bluetooth 4.0
farnell has this class D audio board in stock in the UK requires external power supply https://www.newark.com/maxim-integr...brd-class-d-audio-power-amplifier/dp/14AC4450 $69 no bluetooth
This one is at farnell USA and is $127 requires external power supply no bluetooth https://www.newark.com/texas-instru...142-audio/dp/18M3146?st=audio amplifier board
Here is a farnell 90 W bluetooth amplfier $39 in box with PS https://www.newark.com/pyle/pfa330bt/90w-compact-amplifier-with-bluetooth/dp/31AC3814
here is a farnell 2X15 w bluetooth amplifier $27 in box with PS https://www.newark.com/mcm-custom-audio/50-14843/ultra-compact-15w-rms-x-2ch-amplifier/dp/25AC5144
Farnell has a program where they ship UK stock to the US with a four day delay for no charge. You pay for the box from the US warehouse to your house, usually about $9. I suspect farnell UK has a similar program.
You can look at the farnell stock by clicking all products, then audio/video products, then pro amplifiers, the click stock only box. These amplifiers are not professional grade, I don't know what they were thinking.
Happy shopping & building.
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That’s fine if you don’t understand everything now, but what you want to achieve is not so clear – we don’t understand how to help you.
You want to make/build a Bluetooth speaker, right?
Will that be only one box (mono) with an amplifier and battery inside?
If you decide to buy the Technics speakers and used only one of them – are you planning of building the amp and battery inside the box? That might be problem No 1 – It can affect the speaker sound negatively (reducing the inside volume, opening the back to swap the battery for charging, etc). Problem No 2 – you cannot simply connect both outputs (L and R) of the amp to a single speaker – it can blow or damage your amp. You will have to make a summing circuit to convert stereo to a mono signal. That is not difficult. Better to use a mono amp then, but I don’t think you will find one with Bluetooth input.
You mentioned a 2.1 amp. Those are rather nice solutions on a budget if you want to drive a separate subwoofer additional to two main speakers. But that is not want you want to do, I think.
So, maybe give us some more info on what you would really like to have as an end result, then you should get better guidance here. Also, we don’t know where in the world you are. So, it is difficult to recommend stuff like speaker drivers.
I think I started this wrong! I guess i should have explained what I wanted to do and achieve first and ask for guidance rather than posting something like this. Anyways thanks for taking the time to look for parts and replying to me. I wanted to build a speaker from scratch myself and to be able to run it on a battery and to be able to plug it in the mains, depending on the needs. Somewhere in the middle i realised that is going to be too difficult for me and someone suggested to me to get a old speaker and try modifying it. And I was focusing on that for a bit. And im trying to do it cheap because of the finances and if I mess something up so it is not too much. So to summarise I want to get an old speaker (monio) and put an amp and battery inside and see how that goes.
I will be buying parts in the UK As it will get to expensive if I try buy it from US or EU.
So what are your opinions on this? Would this be the easiest way of doing it for the first time?
I will be buying parts in the UK As it will get to expensive if I try buy it from US or EU.
So what are your opinions on this? Would this be the easiest way of doing it for the first time?
Something simple is the common stereo amplifier boards.
usually 2x 5 watt channels.
All designed to run off 3.6 volt USB
So at home you use a USB power supply.
And for portable it uses flat battery pack.
usually you just need whatever battery size you want.
a simple battery management system ( BMS)
which will all plug into a USB port on your homemade case.
2 x 5W Bluetooth Amp Board with Audio Output and Battery Option
usually 2x 5 watt channels.
All designed to run off 3.6 volt USB
So at home you use a USB power supply.
And for portable it uses flat battery pack.
usually you just need whatever battery size you want.
a simple battery management system ( BMS)
which will all plug into a USB port on your homemade case.
2 x 5W Bluetooth Amp Board with Audio Output and Battery Option
@Pechula Its a fine ideal. Search on facebook markedplace to see if there are some that are close by. Single speakers are very hard to sell so you should be able to get one cheap. Also center speakers. You can probably also find a small bluetooth speaker for a few pounds. Use Its electronica to power the speaker. Where do you live? Its a good ideal to update you'r profile with this info. Keep posting suggestions. Those Panasonic looks No good. Technics are probly fine, but not much bass