Hello. Turns out I have some speakers on hand and I would like to build a speaker box for them.
Im looking for a 3way setup. Stereo of course. Each speaker will be driven individually from active crossovers so we dont have to worry about that. Tho I do have two monoblock tube amplifiers and I would very much like to listen to them but thats easy to solve later on.
The speakers I have didnt come with a spec sheet other than rated power and sensitivity and the diameter.
Low frequency driver : SBX 2530
specified as 150/100W frequency response 30-2500Hz sensitivity 90dB 8ohm 250mm diameter and a 30oz magnet.
Mid-low driver : SBX 1320
specified 60/40W response 50-7000Hz sensitivity 85dB 8ohm 130mm diameter 20oz magnet
Tweeter: this is where I got lucky a bit. Got my hands on eminence tweeters.
I cant identify them by looking at them, its a horn tweeter. Silver ring and silver I guess nub in the middle (im not a speacialist please dont burn me alive), what I can definitely say its a older tweeter probably 20 or so years old.
Main problem here is how to design a cabinet for the sub and woofer. I want to make a floor standing speaker. I do understand that is going to make a very wide cabinet with that 250mm sub. Im not looking for miracles here, maybe a older proven design that I could upscale for my speakers.
I plan to test the design first on cheap wood just to see how it would work and yes Im aware the material used will change acoustic characterestics of the cabinet.
First of all I need something to build. Column speaker cab with those epakers above mentioned. Hopefully someone has an answer for my question here.
Im looking for a 3way setup. Stereo of course. Each speaker will be driven individually from active crossovers so we dont have to worry about that. Tho I do have two monoblock tube amplifiers and I would very much like to listen to them but thats easy to solve later on.
The speakers I have didnt come with a spec sheet other than rated power and sensitivity and the diameter.
Low frequency driver : SBX 2530
specified as 150/100W frequency response 30-2500Hz sensitivity 90dB 8ohm 250mm diameter and a 30oz magnet.
Mid-low driver : SBX 1320
specified 60/40W response 50-7000Hz sensitivity 85dB 8ohm 130mm diameter 20oz magnet
Tweeter: this is where I got lucky a bit. Got my hands on eminence tweeters.
I cant identify them by looking at them, its a horn tweeter. Silver ring and silver I guess nub in the middle (im not a speacialist please dont burn me alive), what I can definitely say its a older tweeter probably 20 or so years old.
Main problem here is how to design a cabinet for the sub and woofer. I want to make a floor standing speaker. I do understand that is going to make a very wide cabinet with that 250mm sub. Im not looking for miracles here, maybe a older proven design that I could upscale for my speakers.
I plan to test the design first on cheap wood just to see how it would work and yes Im aware the material used will change acoustic characterestics of the cabinet.
First of all I need something to build. Column speaker cab with those epakers above mentioned. Hopefully someone has an answer for my question here.
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You'll need to know at least the following T/S parameters to design appropriate woofer and midrange enclosures - Fs, Qts and Vas. The power levels, FR range quoted by manufacturers are largely meaningless, useless for design and specified in a non-standard manner.
Your woofer is more sensitive than your midrange - good - but might be too sensitive. This means your midrange may not be able to play as loud as your woofer even after baffle step compensation
If going active - you at least need the frequency response of the drivers in question (and depending on how impedance friendly your tube amps are - the impedance as well). You can use manufacturer frequency response curves but you need to apply baffle step and diffraction from your intended baffle to get close to reality. you also need the phase response - even for active designs.
Your woofer is more sensitive than your midrange - good - but might be too sensitive. This means your midrange may not be able to play as loud as your woofer even after baffle step compensation
If going active - you at least need the frequency response of the drivers in question (and depending on how impedance friendly your tube amps are - the impedance as well). You can use manufacturer frequency response curves but you need to apply baffle step and diffraction from your intended baffle to get close to reality. you also need the phase response - even for active designs.
Model number of the tweeter?
Data sheets for the other two:
https://www.mgelectronic.rs/ProductFilesDownload?Id=2308
https://www.mgelectronic.rs/ProductFilesDownload?Id=2303
The SBX 2530 will need a box of around 90 liters tuned to ~ 30Hz
Data sheets for the other two:
https://www.mgelectronic.rs/ProductFilesDownload?Id=2308
https://www.mgelectronic.rs/ProductFilesDownload?Id=2303
The SBX 2530 will need a box of around 90 liters tuned to ~ 30Hz
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I wouldnt mind the midrange staying a little lower than the rest. Personally I prefer more bass and treble with the mids pushed back a bit. I know its not studio grade but for these speakers I will go with my personal prefference.
Thankfully this helpfull person called Pete found the charts.
Thank you Pete for the usefull information.
As you probably noticed I have never built speakers before. I dont understand some stuff but not all of it. So here come the questions
For the SBX2530: 90 liters okay. Ported or closed? And which would be preffered for the most...I guess quality. Also I want the speaker to face me, the listener directly, not to the side.
For the SBX1320: What volume would I need? What would be the smartest volume of the box to tune the resonant frequency to with that particular speaker?.
This applies for both speakers: Since standing waves are a not wanted thing I could design the speaker box to be "triangle" and angle the back aswell to prevent standing waves or glue foam onto the walls inside.
Alright here come the tweeters:
I cant really identify them. No clear to read markings but the sticker on the magnet seems to say its "WF2 6BA". There are plenty speakers tagged WF2 but I cant find anything thats called WF2 6BA. Ill send a picture of the backside. There appears to be no other marking on the tweeter at all other than the sticker.
The closest to these tweeters are the APT80. They dont look the same but im told by the previous owner that they should be. Tho i dont feel like trusting that. Im adding pictures so someone with skilled eyes can identify them
Attachments
Re:' Ported or closed?" - ' tuned to ~ 30Hz" tells you it's ported
Re:'SBX1320: What volume would I need? " - I suggest you download a simulator such as Unibox and have a play with it, it's quite easy. An alternative is WinISD.
Designing the box is quite easy, designing the crossover is where the fun starts.....
Re:'SBX1320: What volume would I need? " - I suggest you download a simulator such as Unibox and have a play with it, it's quite easy. An alternative is WinISD.
Designing the box is quite easy, designing the crossover is where the fun starts.....
alrighty then....I dont know there is no other identification by which I could tell what exactly is this thing
Unfortunately it wont work for me. I have legal office 365 (no phisical program upgraded to office 2019) unfotuntale keeps spitting errors and does not want to really do much at all. I may be able to figure it out as time goes on but not in the next 10 hours...it 1:10 AM and my eyes are like tea crackers....crispy dry.
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