Usually in three ways ,spectrum is divided in 3 bands : 300 (500)-3000 (5 K) Hz
or in a two way 1.5-2.5 KHz is where the tweeter is crossed . Midrange unit then plays the voice and all instruments in a 3 way ,and the character of 'colouration' in the low end of the mids ...about 300 Hz !??! which happens to be at crossover frequency . Thus a ported box for the mid ...and a different slope and freq. cut and steepness between Woofer and Mid ...!??! 🙂
or in a two way 1.5-2.5 KHz is where the tweeter is crossed . Midrange unit then plays the voice and all instruments in a 3 way ,and the character of 'colouration' in the low end of the mids ...about 300 Hz !??! which happens to be at crossover frequency . Thus a ported box for the mid ...and a different slope and freq. cut and steepness between Woofer and Mid ...!??! 🙂
will the 6" play down to 50hz, and have no xover ?
maybe try to sim the closed version with slightly smaller volume
rolloff will be a bit lower, a nicely 'rounded'
remember that it should be 6db down at xo point to woofer
woofer should likewise be 6db down
maybe also take a look at xmax figures
so where should be the Midranges line like it is now or lower Woofers are green and Mid is yellow
Attachments
so the Midrange is only helping the tweeter with the below 100hz stuff i think that is right?
I'm not quite sure I understand what you mean. . . but no need to port the midbass drivers if you are crossing them over to the woofers, especially if it's a passive crossover.
Ported midbass drivers won't be needed with those big woofers you are using and would likely only make the bass worse.
Using the midbass drivers in a sealed/closed volume will give you better transient response, better power handling and a flatter less reactive impedance.
ok yeah i was a bit confused with the 6db down and the xo post earlier anyway i will
have a go at building them after doing all these changes i have my work cut out to work out how many sheets of MDF i need
with the post earlier about floor bounce does that mean will the woofer sound arrive later then the midrange if so do i just move the woofer down the box to make the sound arrive the same time
have a go at building them after doing all these changes i have my work cut out to work out how many sheets of MDF i need
with the post earlier about floor bounce does that mean will the woofer sound arrive later then the midrange if so do i just move the woofer down the box to make the sound arrive the same time
so should i move the woofer down near the bottom of the box?
Well, it kind of depends on where you crossover them, but generally yes.
Attachments
with the post earlier about floor bounce does that mean will the woofer sound arrive later then the midrange if so do i just move the woofer down the box to make the sound arrive the same time
No.
There is direct and reflected sound from both the midrange and woofers, however since bass wavelengths are so much longer bass cancelation can occur when the direct and reflected sound waves arrive at your ears at different times, i.e. out of phase.
You'll almost always hear the midrange before the bass to begin with just because the acoustic center of the midrange driver is closer to the plane of the baffle than the woofers acoustic center is.
Last edited:
ok i think i have got it perfected 😀
unless there is somthing else i need to improve
but i am going to have to think of different design because i don't really like the look
unless there is somthing else i need to improve
but i am going to have to think of different design because i don't really like the look
Attachments
Last edited:
ok i think i have got it perfected 😀
unless there is somthing else i need to improve
Do you listen to music sitting or standing?
Try not to have your midrange and tweeter up too high or the sound from them will be shooting over your ears/head.
anyway thanks for all the help everyone i am going to have to play with the design on how it looks and i will post the finished product when it is finished
Last edited:
usually i am sitting in a bean bag about 4 to 5 feet away
Have you possibly considered satellites and subwoofers? Your midbass and tweeters could be made into some smaller stand mounted enclosures and the woofers could then have there own separate subwoofer enclosures.
no i havent but considerd i all ready have a home theatre with sattlites and a sub that would be my last option but what i was thinking that i have the box in a box like configuration. Have the woofer box and then have the midranges box inside it only downside is that i will have to calculate the 13.5 litres plus the 18 mm thickness of the MDF and add it to the total woofer box volume
no i havent but considerd i all ready have a home theatre with sattlites and a sub that would be my last option but what i was thinking that i have the box in a box like configuration. Have the woofer box and then have the midranges box inside it only downside is that i will have to calculate the 13.5 litres plus the 18 mm thickness of the MDF and add it to the total woofer box volume
My enclosures are not even as large as you intend yours to be. As it is, mine in their as yet unfinished state are almost too heavy to lift/move. I'm using 19mm MDF with full length internal bracing and a double thick front baffle.
When yours are finished I cannot imagine how much they will weigh!
Attachments
Last edited:
yea true but i am in a corner at the moment because i am struggling to think of a nice looking design that is not very complex and hard to build i don't know if you have any idea's of how i could design it a bit better to my pervious attempt
what is the white looking substance in the 2nd pic?
and that is some really nice work you must have been doing this for a while i'm only 16 and i could not do such work as that
and that is some really nice work you must have been doing this for a while i'm only 16 and i could not do such work as that
what is the white looking substance in the 2nd pic?
and that is some really nice work you must have been doing this for a while i'm only 16 and i could not do such work as that
Fissured Acoustical Ceiling Tile for moderate sound absorption/suppression inside the enclosure of the midrange frequencies.
The only way to become an "expert" is to make plenty of mistakes.
Anyway MDF is relatively inexpensive and mistakes are usually easy to fix or repair.
When I cut the large angles/bevels on the front corners I had to have someone help me to lift up and push the enclosures on the table saw.
Attachments
Last edited:
I guess it's for keeping the distance...🙄😉what is the white looking substance in the 2nd pic?
Also for reference http://www.renatogiussani.it/the_forum_speaker_1.htm
which may be a step ahead when considering the system in room .
The woofer benefits from 'floor bounce' since it is a nearby reflecting surface it adds +3 dB ; omnidirectional source point given by the closed box design ,and total null of internal reflections with the prismatic geometry .
The mid-hi cabinet ... which has open back ,is placed at ear level's height ,and has almost no baffle ,making another point source .
ok yeah my first box's just had ceiling bats in it and that sounded fine but i had the woofer and midrange in the same box i,m not going to do that again!
Last edited:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
- Home
- Design & Build
- Construction Tips
- 3 Way Loudspeaker Designing