Hello fellow DIYers! I'm new to the forums, and looking for some advice from those experienced in DIY audio. I've done all kinds of work on our house over the years, always worked on my own cars, and have built my desktop computers from components, so I intend to apply my DIY spirit to my love of audio.
I've been a fan of Klipsch speakers since I got my ProMedia 2.1 system years ago. My best friend recently assembled a very nice Klipsch Reference Premier theater setup in his newly finished basement. He has a Direct Buy account and got some far-below-retail pricing on that equipment. It sounds very good overall, but their designs seem to center around horn-loaded tweeters with multiple drivers of consistent sizing. They have nice punch, but I believe they're lacking in the midrange frequencies. My current system consists of Klipsch Synergy C-20 center, old RF-10's for mains, Synergy F-20's for side surrounds, and an SVS PB1000 subwoofer. I think all these speakers were probably worth the money I paid, but the performance isn't up to my current standards. I'm generally pleased with the PB1000, and may add a second PB1000 somewhere down the line, but the subwoofer will be the last component of my current setup to be upgraded. I'm running these speakers from an old RCA STAV-3990, which was pretty nice in its day, but lacks current technology such as Audyssey and the like. I'm not particularly concerned about upgrading the receiver currently since I'm connected via optical cables to my PS3 for DVD/Blu-Ray and a desktop computer for streaming music. The receiver has a "Direct" function to bypass all of its sound-shaping functions, and I think it sounds best this way.
The Upgrade Path: The purpose of this thread is to set in motion my upgrade strategy. The first piece on the chopping block is the C-20 center channel. After being pleased with the PB1000 subwoofer, I've strongly considered SVS for my center/mains needs. To give you all an idea of where I'm at with regards to desired quality and budget, I'm somewhere between a Klipsch RP-250C and an SVS Ultra Center. I've also considered the Paradigm Monitor Center 3 v7. I just can't stomach paying over $500 for a center channel I'll essentially only be using when renting Blu-Ray movies from RedBox. However, I recognize the need for a well matched front soundstage, and if I were to try to save money and go with the RP-250C, Center 1, or Prime Center, I probably wouldn't be happy long term. This is how I arrived at DIY audio. My plan is to build a center channel of better-than-Prime-Center quality, then build mains with the same drivers. I'm not too concerned about surrounds at this point. That upgrade is so far down the list of upgrades it's not even worth talking about.
The Goal: Throughout all my listening situations, I ultimately want an accurate reproduction of the recordings. I'd never considered actually building my own speakers until recently. I very much like the idea, and think that I can accomplish SVS Ultra level sound for somewhat less money. If anyone reads this and disagrees, please tell me. I would save myself a great deal of time by simply scrapping the whole idea and living with the decent sound of off-the-shelf speakers on the level of the RP-250C because I'm simply not willing to part with the $3700 to buy an Ultra Tower Surround System. I'm sure that system exceeds my wants. At this point in my life I have more time than money, hence the DIY direction. My budget is flexible within my self-imposed value limitations.
The Limitations: I'm basing my decisions having never listened to any high quality home theater speakers aside from my friends Klipsch Reference Premier setup. I could potentially drive across town to an audio shop and demo some, but I don't believe they carry any of the component drivers I would be buying for my builds, so I don't see the benefit in that. I'm relying on my online research and the recommendations of the audio experts here willing to share their advice. As for size/design, I plan to use the same drivers in the center channel and the mains. I think the 6-7 inch range is prudent for the midbass to keep the center channel at a reasonable size. I'll always have the subwoofer to carry the low end, so I don't think I'm missing out by choosing that size. The tweeter choices are essentially wide open as I'm not partial to soft dome, metallic dome, or ribbon style, but I would probably appreciate the effects of nesting a tweeter in a waveform of some kind. I tend to like the expressive highs of Klipsch, and they're all horn loaded. Due to my love of bluegrass music, the dedicated midrange driver is particularly important to me. I'm willing to spend a larger portion of the budget here to accurately reproduce the acoustic instruments and vocal harmonies. FWIW the actual building of custom cabinets is well within my woodworking skill set and should not be considered a detractor if custom cabinet features have noticeable benefits, such as camfering baffle edges, routing the backside of the baffle at an angle for driver breathing, etc.
The 900lb gorilla in the room: Should I pursue a custom design, buy an SVS Prime Center and live with that, or order and construct the Center 641-Prestige available from Jantzen Audio? How do the DIY kits from Jantzen compare to the SVS Prime/Ultra Centers? If I'm sure about anything regarding my upgrade path, it's that I begin with a W/T-M/W type center channel. The biggest questions in my mind are these: How good are the drivers listed in the Jantzen kits? Are the Excel drivers and Superior Z-caps worth around twice the price of the Prestige drivers and Standard Z-caps? I cannot answer these questions without your help.
The Crossover: When I began looking into DIY speakers, I came across many extremely knowledgeable posters touting the importance of a properly designed crossover. Previously I had assumed that crossovers either did their job well, or basically failed (read cheap products). I hadn't considered that name brand companies would fall short in such an important area, though I hadn't been privy to the importance of a quality crossover, either. I was aware that some speakers used differing orders, but I had no clue that factors such as diffraction based on baffle design could be mediated by tuning at the crossover. There's so much to learn, I feel I've only scratched the surface. I'm reluctant, but not completely unwilling, to go through the process of learning crossover design. I've browsed a few threads where some users have contributed a significant amount of time educating newbies such as myself on how to use modelling applications of various sorts, and that's encouraging to say the least. I've also read Troels Gravesen saying that a proper crossover cannot be designed without testing and tweaking (i.e. simulations are of limited value), and I'm not sure I want to spend the money on a mic only to use it for building a center and two mains. It could be well worth the money; I could be misplacing its value. I understand that off-the-shelf crossovers shouldn't be used, but I would need significant guidance with crossover design and implementation should I go the DIY route.
Your help: Please advise me on your opinions of the brands of drivers I should consider for my center and mains. With my budget in mind, I'm currently considering SEAS Prestige, Scanspeak Discovery, Satori, and SB Acoustics. How do these compare to the drivers used by brands such as Klipsch, Paradigm, and SVS? Should I spend the money on Superior Z-caps, or do you think my needs would be met with Standard Z-caps? Should I consider cannibalizing my Synergy F-20's and using those drivers/tweeter with an added midrange and custom crossover in a custom cabinet? All thoughts and opinions will be appreciated.
Final Notes: The system I'm currently upgrading resides in our living room, which is approximately 12' deep by 20' wide with 8' ceiling, and has two open doorways. One 3' wide opening is to the right of the system along the 20' wall, and there's a 4' wide opening around the middle of the lefthand 12' wall. The 20' wall behind the listening position is composed largely of a multi-panel window with a medium-thin curtain. This listening environment is far from optimal, but I expect whatever decisions I make based on this thread will live on well past the current listening environment. We may move our setup to the basement at some point, or to another house entirely within the next several years. I don't believe the current listening environment should play into these decisions since my primary goal is an accurate, flat response. I'm not limited to low listening volumes, but we don't have a particularly large space to fill, either. I don't think I'll be volume-limited at all, so overall system sensitivity and amplifier power shouldn't be a significant consideration.
Thank you in advance for your thoughts and opinions!
I've been a fan of Klipsch speakers since I got my ProMedia 2.1 system years ago. My best friend recently assembled a very nice Klipsch Reference Premier theater setup in his newly finished basement. He has a Direct Buy account and got some far-below-retail pricing on that equipment. It sounds very good overall, but their designs seem to center around horn-loaded tweeters with multiple drivers of consistent sizing. They have nice punch, but I believe they're lacking in the midrange frequencies. My current system consists of Klipsch Synergy C-20 center, old RF-10's for mains, Synergy F-20's for side surrounds, and an SVS PB1000 subwoofer. I think all these speakers were probably worth the money I paid, but the performance isn't up to my current standards. I'm generally pleased with the PB1000, and may add a second PB1000 somewhere down the line, but the subwoofer will be the last component of my current setup to be upgraded. I'm running these speakers from an old RCA STAV-3990, which was pretty nice in its day, but lacks current technology such as Audyssey and the like. I'm not particularly concerned about upgrading the receiver currently since I'm connected via optical cables to my PS3 for DVD/Blu-Ray and a desktop computer for streaming music. The receiver has a "Direct" function to bypass all of its sound-shaping functions, and I think it sounds best this way.
The Upgrade Path: The purpose of this thread is to set in motion my upgrade strategy. The first piece on the chopping block is the C-20 center channel. After being pleased with the PB1000 subwoofer, I've strongly considered SVS for my center/mains needs. To give you all an idea of where I'm at with regards to desired quality and budget, I'm somewhere between a Klipsch RP-250C and an SVS Ultra Center. I've also considered the Paradigm Monitor Center 3 v7. I just can't stomach paying over $500 for a center channel I'll essentially only be using when renting Blu-Ray movies from RedBox. However, I recognize the need for a well matched front soundstage, and if I were to try to save money and go with the RP-250C, Center 1, or Prime Center, I probably wouldn't be happy long term. This is how I arrived at DIY audio. My plan is to build a center channel of better-than-Prime-Center quality, then build mains with the same drivers. I'm not too concerned about surrounds at this point. That upgrade is so far down the list of upgrades it's not even worth talking about.
The Goal: Throughout all my listening situations, I ultimately want an accurate reproduction of the recordings. I'd never considered actually building my own speakers until recently. I very much like the idea, and think that I can accomplish SVS Ultra level sound for somewhat less money. If anyone reads this and disagrees, please tell me. I would save myself a great deal of time by simply scrapping the whole idea and living with the decent sound of off-the-shelf speakers on the level of the RP-250C because I'm simply not willing to part with the $3700 to buy an Ultra Tower Surround System. I'm sure that system exceeds my wants. At this point in my life I have more time than money, hence the DIY direction. My budget is flexible within my self-imposed value limitations.
The Limitations: I'm basing my decisions having never listened to any high quality home theater speakers aside from my friends Klipsch Reference Premier setup. I could potentially drive across town to an audio shop and demo some, but I don't believe they carry any of the component drivers I would be buying for my builds, so I don't see the benefit in that. I'm relying on my online research and the recommendations of the audio experts here willing to share their advice. As for size/design, I plan to use the same drivers in the center channel and the mains. I think the 6-7 inch range is prudent for the midbass to keep the center channel at a reasonable size. I'll always have the subwoofer to carry the low end, so I don't think I'm missing out by choosing that size. The tweeter choices are essentially wide open as I'm not partial to soft dome, metallic dome, or ribbon style, but I would probably appreciate the effects of nesting a tweeter in a waveform of some kind. I tend to like the expressive highs of Klipsch, and they're all horn loaded. Due to my love of bluegrass music, the dedicated midrange driver is particularly important to me. I'm willing to spend a larger portion of the budget here to accurately reproduce the acoustic instruments and vocal harmonies. FWIW the actual building of custom cabinets is well within my woodworking skill set and should not be considered a detractor if custom cabinet features have noticeable benefits, such as camfering baffle edges, routing the backside of the baffle at an angle for driver breathing, etc.
The 900lb gorilla in the room: Should I pursue a custom design, buy an SVS Prime Center and live with that, or order and construct the Center 641-Prestige available from Jantzen Audio? How do the DIY kits from Jantzen compare to the SVS Prime/Ultra Centers? If I'm sure about anything regarding my upgrade path, it's that I begin with a W/T-M/W type center channel. The biggest questions in my mind are these: How good are the drivers listed in the Jantzen kits? Are the Excel drivers and Superior Z-caps worth around twice the price of the Prestige drivers and Standard Z-caps? I cannot answer these questions without your help.
The Crossover: When I began looking into DIY speakers, I came across many extremely knowledgeable posters touting the importance of a properly designed crossover. Previously I had assumed that crossovers either did their job well, or basically failed (read cheap products). I hadn't considered that name brand companies would fall short in such an important area, though I hadn't been privy to the importance of a quality crossover, either. I was aware that some speakers used differing orders, but I had no clue that factors such as diffraction based on baffle design could be mediated by tuning at the crossover. There's so much to learn, I feel I've only scratched the surface. I'm reluctant, but not completely unwilling, to go through the process of learning crossover design. I've browsed a few threads where some users have contributed a significant amount of time educating newbies such as myself on how to use modelling applications of various sorts, and that's encouraging to say the least. I've also read Troels Gravesen saying that a proper crossover cannot be designed without testing and tweaking (i.e. simulations are of limited value), and I'm not sure I want to spend the money on a mic only to use it for building a center and two mains. It could be well worth the money; I could be misplacing its value. I understand that off-the-shelf crossovers shouldn't be used, but I would need significant guidance with crossover design and implementation should I go the DIY route.
Your help: Please advise me on your opinions of the brands of drivers I should consider for my center and mains. With my budget in mind, I'm currently considering SEAS Prestige, Scanspeak Discovery, Satori, and SB Acoustics. How do these compare to the drivers used by brands such as Klipsch, Paradigm, and SVS? Should I spend the money on Superior Z-caps, or do you think my needs would be met with Standard Z-caps? Should I consider cannibalizing my Synergy F-20's and using those drivers/tweeter with an added midrange and custom crossover in a custom cabinet? All thoughts and opinions will be appreciated.
Final Notes: The system I'm currently upgrading resides in our living room, which is approximately 12' deep by 20' wide with 8' ceiling, and has two open doorways. One 3' wide opening is to the right of the system along the 20' wall, and there's a 4' wide opening around the middle of the lefthand 12' wall. The 20' wall behind the listening position is composed largely of a multi-panel window with a medium-thin curtain. This listening environment is far from optimal, but I expect whatever decisions I make based on this thread will live on well past the current listening environment. We may move our setup to the basement at some point, or to another house entirely within the next several years. I don't believe the current listening environment should play into these decisions since my primary goal is an accurate, flat response. I'm not limited to low listening volumes, but we don't have a particularly large space to fill, either. I don't think I'll be volume-limited at all, so overall system sensitivity and amplifier power shouldn't be a significant consideration.
Thank you in advance for your thoughts and opinions!
Just 1 small piece of the puzzle: I've never heard of SVS before but a quick look at the Primes, https://www.svsound.com/products/prime-center, and it sure looks like they are using the following drivers:
Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD18-08 3-1/2" Full Range Paper Cone Woofer
Peerless by Tymphany 830656 5-1/4" Paper Cone SDS Woofer
Not sure about the tweeter.
Pretty good value drivers actually but nothing really, really special. Note that the Prime towers use a different mid, so timbre/tone matching between CC and L & R will not be great. For a diy front ensemble for fairly low $, a CC with the above drivers plus a suitable small faceplate tweeter plus a couple of MTMWW towers with the same drivers or perhaps with the next larger Peerless 6.5" woofers would probably sound pretty good, but you really need to measure to get the best xo for them.
I can't identify the drivers in the Ultra system unfortunately, but the drivers you reference, Prestige, Discovery, etc., are indeed a decent step up from what you get in the Prime system.
Maybe a kit is worth looking at. One of the more highly regarded system designs is some version of the Statements:
Speaker Design Works
https://meniscusaudio.com/shop/page/5/?product_cat=kits&widget_search=yes
Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD18-08 3-1/2" Full Range Paper Cone Woofer
Peerless by Tymphany 830656 5-1/4" Paper Cone SDS Woofer
Not sure about the tweeter.
Pretty good value drivers actually but nothing really, really special. Note that the Prime towers use a different mid, so timbre/tone matching between CC and L & R will not be great. For a diy front ensemble for fairly low $, a CC with the above drivers plus a suitable small faceplate tweeter plus a couple of MTMWW towers with the same drivers or perhaps with the next larger Peerless 6.5" woofers would probably sound pretty good, but you really need to measure to get the best xo for them.
I can't identify the drivers in the Ultra system unfortunately, but the drivers you reference, Prestige, Discovery, etc., are indeed a decent step up from what you get in the Prime system.
Maybe a kit is worth looking at. One of the more highly regarded system designs is some version of the Statements:
Speaker Design Works
https://meniscusaudio.com/shop/page/5/?product_cat=kits&widget_search=yes
Thank you so much for identifying the drivers used in the Prime Center! I never would have picked that out, nor would I have guessed they were using such low cost components. Also, if you know that the Prestige line is a considerable step up from the Peerless, I'm inclined to order and build the Center 641 Prestige kit from Jantzen. I can have it shipped to my house for about 450USD and all I would need to do is build the cabinet and be happy for now. Later on I would then build out a pair of towers with the same drivers, and get a mic for crossover design.
On a side note, would you really use two midranges in the towers when the center only uses one?
On a side note, would you really use two midranges in the towers when the center only uses one?
All depends on if you really want to try to design your own. It's not exactly rocket science but it's not exactly easy either. Here's a thread in which I've been helping someone with a 1st time 3-way design - http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/287296-3-way-build-project-woofer-help.html. We're at 25 pages and a year of time later. So far.
And I kind of tend to think that shipping from Europe when so much is available in the US is a bit of a waste of resources. YMMV. I would also probably put the Discovery and the SB Acoustic above the basic Prestige line. The Satori is a step above them all, but that's just going on what I've read and measurements that I've seen - I haven't heard any of them personally. The Dayton RS line fits in there somewhere with the Prestige, Discovery and SB line too. Here's some options with those drivers - diVine Audio.
Re the # of mids, that little 3.5" Peerless (formerly Vifa) is quite a little bargain, but it's so small that you might want to use 2 for some serious home theater SPL's (depends of course on the chosen xo point). If that's the case, it probably makes more sense to put 2 of them into the CC as well. But 1 or 2, they'll still have the same FR, they'll just differ in their max output (and well, impedance also).
All depends on your abilities etc, but I might put in a little more time on finding matching front stage kits before committing to rolling my own for the 1st time.
Those Vifa mids in the Statements and the Finalists btw are like little bargain Satoris. They should be on your short list as well.
And I kind of tend to think that shipping from Europe when so much is available in the US is a bit of a waste of resources. YMMV. I would also probably put the Discovery and the SB Acoustic above the basic Prestige line. The Satori is a step above them all, but that's just going on what I've read and measurements that I've seen - I haven't heard any of them personally. The Dayton RS line fits in there somewhere with the Prestige, Discovery and SB line too. Here's some options with those drivers - diVine Audio.
Re the # of mids, that little 3.5" Peerless (formerly Vifa) is quite a little bargain, but it's so small that you might want to use 2 for some serious home theater SPL's (depends of course on the chosen xo point). If that's the case, it probably makes more sense to put 2 of them into the CC as well. But 1 or 2, they'll still have the same FR, they'll just differ in their max output (and well, impedance also).
All depends on your abilities etc, but I might put in a little more time on finding matching front stage kits before committing to rolling my own for the 1st time.
Those Vifa mids in the Statements and the Finalists btw are like little bargain Satoris. They should be on your short list as well.
Thanks again for bringing options to the table and helping to place value on the brands which I'm unfamiliar with. I've pretty much already read the entire build project you referenced. I believe that thread led me to open an account here in the first place. I skimmed over some, and portions have directly caused me to research and consider aspects of speaker design I never knew existed. I'm so pleased you've responded to my cry for help. You've given such great advice over the past year!
I've decided I'll go ahead with building my own setup, largely due to compromises in the kits that don't fit my goals well enough to exactly copy. However, spark010's thread that you've helped so much with gets me very close. I plan to use the same midrange and tweeter, so that portion of the crossover will be greatly simplified since you've worked with that combination already. I realize my center channel will have some properties which vary from spark's floor standers, but it'll be all that much simpler when I build my floor standers later on.
The main difference between his goal and mine is the use of a dedicated subwoofer. I don't intend for these speakers to ever go without one, and because of this I've chosen a different midbass driver. I'd love to hear your input (obviously), but I think the SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-8 fits my midbass requirements well, and should be an excellent match sonically to the Satori. I've considered a 7" or 8" Dayton RS, and the Peerless chosen by spark, but I don't think I want to use an aluminum cone due to potential voicing differences to the Satori. If I were building a 2-way design, I would certainly use the Scanspeak 18W/8434G-00 Discovery 7", but again I feel like the SB17MFC35-8 will be the most seamless and like-voiced without spending the money on more Satori's for midbass as well as midrange. Specifically, the Cms rating for both of my SB choices are quite similar, whereas the other choices were significantly more compliant. I feel like this could be an unnecessary challenge. Of course the SB17MFC35-8 has significantly less cone area than the other choices, but since I'm not asking it to really perform under 100 or so hz, I think I'll be ok with a pair of them in each channel. To conflict my own logic somewhat, I also like its low Fs, if for no other reason than to reduce the chances of the driver harming itself when I turn the rap music up loud. I've also decided that the going price for the SEAS Prestige CA18RNX (H1215) 7" seems a little more than its worth to me, regardless of its favorable qualities for my purpose.
So, barring any major developments in driver choices, the plan will be to order:
1 x SB29RDCN-C000-4
1 x Satori MW13P-8
2 x SB17MFC35-8
1 x Dayton Audio UMM-6 USB Measurement Microphone
I'll then build up a center channel and be ready to take some measurements and work on a crossover. I don't have plans of anything too fancy with the cabinet. I'll do a typical W/T-M/W as previously stated with the tweeter and midrange as close as I can--basically copying the methods used in Troels's Center-641 builds. I'll do basic 3/4" MDF, perhaps with a double thickness baffle if I decide to do some faceting, but that seems unlikely at this point.
Thanks again for your input--it's quite valuable to me as I can only process a portion of the T/S parameters, and sometimes the subjective side can be even more important so I don't dive off into some marginally important area of number crunching.
I've decided I'll go ahead with building my own setup, largely due to compromises in the kits that don't fit my goals well enough to exactly copy. However, spark010's thread that you've helped so much with gets me very close. I plan to use the same midrange and tweeter, so that portion of the crossover will be greatly simplified since you've worked with that combination already. I realize my center channel will have some properties which vary from spark's floor standers, but it'll be all that much simpler when I build my floor standers later on.
The main difference between his goal and mine is the use of a dedicated subwoofer. I don't intend for these speakers to ever go without one, and because of this I've chosen a different midbass driver. I'd love to hear your input (obviously), but I think the SB Acoustics SB17MFC35-8 fits my midbass requirements well, and should be an excellent match sonically to the Satori. I've considered a 7" or 8" Dayton RS, and the Peerless chosen by spark, but I don't think I want to use an aluminum cone due to potential voicing differences to the Satori. If I were building a 2-way design, I would certainly use the Scanspeak 18W/8434G-00 Discovery 7", but again I feel like the SB17MFC35-8 will be the most seamless and like-voiced without spending the money on more Satori's for midbass as well as midrange. Specifically, the Cms rating for both of my SB choices are quite similar, whereas the other choices were significantly more compliant. I feel like this could be an unnecessary challenge. Of course the SB17MFC35-8 has significantly less cone area than the other choices, but since I'm not asking it to really perform under 100 or so hz, I think I'll be ok with a pair of them in each channel. To conflict my own logic somewhat, I also like its low Fs, if for no other reason than to reduce the chances of the driver harming itself when I turn the rap music up loud. I've also decided that the going price for the SEAS Prestige CA18RNX (H1215) 7" seems a little more than its worth to me, regardless of its favorable qualities for my purpose.
So, barring any major developments in driver choices, the plan will be to order:
1 x SB29RDCN-C000-4
1 x Satori MW13P-8
2 x SB17MFC35-8
1 x Dayton Audio UMM-6 USB Measurement Microphone
I'll then build up a center channel and be ready to take some measurements and work on a crossover. I don't have plans of anything too fancy with the cabinet. I'll do a typical W/T-M/W as previously stated with the tweeter and midrange as close as I can--basically copying the methods used in Troels's Center-641 builds. I'll do basic 3/4" MDF, perhaps with a double thickness baffle if I decide to do some faceting, but that seems unlikely at this point.
Thanks again for your input--it's quite valuable to me as I can only process a portion of the T/S parameters, and sometimes the subjective side can be even more important so I don't dive off into some marginally important area of number crunching.
Looks like a plan.
Depending on the amount of baffle step loss for the different speakers, you may want to go with the 4ohm Satori mid. Depends on speaker placement really. I might also consider the newer SB17CRC35-8 as what I've seen is that those sandwich layered cones are a little better in the LF's which is where you will be using them. More expensive though.
I have to be up front and say that I currently don't have as much time to work with you as I did with spark, so you are going to have to rely on others' help as well.
Maybe if you want to be cautious, you might think about buying just the mic 1st, and try working with that and a measuring program on speakers you already own instead of buying everything all at once. Everything is sort of going to come down to getting accurate measurements for you, both FR and impedance. Worst comes to worst, as long as you can provide accurate in box measurements, somebody else can design the xo's for you.
Depending on the amount of baffle step loss for the different speakers, you may want to go with the 4ohm Satori mid. Depends on speaker placement really. I might also consider the newer SB17CRC35-8 as what I've seen is that those sandwich layered cones are a little better in the LF's which is where you will be using them. More expensive though.
I have to be up front and say that I currently don't have as much time to work with you as I did with spark, so you are going to have to rely on others' help as well.
Maybe if you want to be cautious, you might think about buying just the mic 1st, and try working with that and a measuring program on speakers you already own instead of buying everything all at once. Everything is sort of going to come down to getting accurate measurements for you, both FR and impedance. Worst comes to worst, as long as you can provide accurate in box measurements, somebody else can design the xo's for you.
jReave: I don´t think it´s the Peerless SDS, but the HDS woofer. A much better woofer.
You can tell because the surface looks like diecast aluminium, not stamped metal.
You can tell because the surface looks like diecast aluminium, not stamped metal.
That's a good call. I think you're right. Closer inspection of the surround suggests the same thing to me now.
That's probably a pretty decent budget speaker actually depending on the tweeter and xo selection, but I don't have any reason to doubt some care there as well.
I'm recently contemplating a small form, low cost pair of speakers for my sister and I was debating between an MTM using either the TC9 or a 4" HDS. Nice idea here putting them together (well, with the 5" instead). I hadn't thought of that.
That's probably a pretty decent budget speaker actually depending on the tweeter and xo selection, but I don't have any reason to doubt some care there as well.
I'm recently contemplating a small form, low cost pair of speakers for my sister and I was debating between an MTM using either the TC9 or a 4" HDS. Nice idea here putting them together (well, with the 5" instead). I hadn't thought of that.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.