I have the 90 for my sub. It’s still huge.
I feel like speakon to me at least looks better on subs. Not so much on speakers.
I also don’t want that speakon connection of contact where the plug twists into the base. I wanted them to be more passthrough speaker cable instead of that kind of connection.
Really not understanding your objection; but hey, it's your choice. I dont tend to spend a lot of time gazing at the back of my speakers
the only thing I dont like, given i'm not in a pro AV setting, is the fact the strain relief makes them locking, so once soldered and closed up, they are sealed. I get around that by not using the strain relief, given the gauge of the wire and the resulting solder joint; i'm pretty confident it isnt coming loose 🙂
If you can make it harder, why should you choose the easy way (4pole speaken vs binding post)
it seems that TS already made his choice, no more advice required
it seems that TS already made his choice, no more advice required
You can get them back apart, there are flats on the end of the strain relief that I put a wrench on and held the other part with some Channel Locks. I figured it'd unscrew or break, but it came undone and seemed to work fine going back together.
I should be clear, by strain relief I was referring to the internal plastic piece that you seat around the cable before screwing together. That is the part that locks it. I figured that part may be able to be broken with enough force; its just easier to leave it out; as without it they screw/unscrew with fingers. Yours is good info for the thread all the same and I may gain an extra connector knowing it will come open with enough force.
Just one more vote for speak-ons
I have 3 way actives and am using 8 pole speakons on each. Wouldn't have it any other way.
I have 3 way actives and am using 8 pole speakons on each. Wouldn't have it any other way.
That is the point. They are intended for round professional cables, when I had to use them in my connection of subwoofers with double braided cable, it was a breech delivery, so I eliminated them.
And the metal tab is suitable only for cables with many fine strands, otherwise it is better to remove them as well.
I used them because the PA amp brought those jacks, but I prefer the common ones from home equipment.
I'm aware what they are intended for and said as much in my previous comment.
I removed the internal strain relief because I am not using them in an environment where they are accessed by anyone other than myself and connect/disconnect cycles are infrequent. I have had absolutely no problem using them with any reasonable format of speaker wire, solid or stranded. I only removed it, because I wanted to be able to open them easily and any wire I use will produce a sturdy enough connection without it. if you dont have a round cable and want them to lock closed to prevent tampering (thats the point i'm sure), simply add multiple layers of heatshrink until its round.
What metal tab? these are the 4 pole metal body/silver plate (NLT4FX) version I have. As you can see, you can also use spades on the female if desired; which is great for prototyping. the male cable mount (left), as you can see, will accept just about anything. You might struggle using them as a charge cable for your tesla, but any reasonable speaker cable will fit.
I removed the internal strain relief because I am not using them in an environment where they are accessed by anyone other than myself and connect/disconnect cycles are infrequent. I have had absolutely no problem using them with any reasonable format of speaker wire, solid or stranded. I only removed it, because I wanted to be able to open them easily and any wire I use will produce a sturdy enough connection without it. if you dont have a round cable and want them to lock closed to prevent tampering (thats the point i'm sure), simply add multiple layers of heatshrink until its round.
What metal tab? these are the 4 pole metal body/silver plate (NLT4FX) version I have. As you can see, you can also use spades on the female if desired; which is great for prototyping. the male cable mount (left), as you can see, will accept just about anything. You might struggle using them as a charge cable for your tesla, but any reasonable speaker cable will fit.
Attachments
What metal tab ?
at minute 0.10 you can see it.
CONECTOR SPEAKON y CABLE DE ALTAVOCES - 3. SOLDADURA DE LAS PUNTAS DEL CABLE DE ALTAVOZ - YouTube
simply add multiple layers of heatshrink until its round.
No, a cable like this ( pic) will not make it round any heat shrink
I removed the internal strain relief
that piece has a locking design - so it won't rotate - which is a very bad design, it won't stay in position, and the notches get twisted or broken.
at minute 0.10 you can see it.
CONECTOR SPEAKON y CABLE DE ALTAVOCES - 3. SOLDADURA DE LAS PUNTAS DEL CABLE DE ALTAVOZ - YouTube
simply add multiple layers of heatshrink until its round.
No, a cable like this ( pic) will not make it round any heat shrink
I removed the internal strain relief
that piece has a locking design - so it won't rotate - which is a very bad design, it won't stay in position, and the notches get twisted or broken.
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bradleypnw, can you please post the link of the place you bought those from, or found them? Can't seem to find them here in SA.
Regards, Kevin
yes, again, I realise it has a locking design ... it was literally the only thing I said I didnt like about it and why; why do you keep repeating it back to me?
OK, as I suspected, you are using a different model to me, i'm using the solder part. but do you mean the release tab? you want to remove that? honestly apart from it not being easy to open with the internal strain relief; due to it being locking, I have no issue and have used many similar strain reliefs. I guess just use round cable, or cable you can make round, or dont use the strain relief. I dont understand the use of that zip type cable anyway, its pretty crappy IMO and aside from convenience when using other types, I never understood the point of it. its badly designed for CMRR, inductive, cheap, crap thats usually using plain plastic dielectric. Mogami star quad power cable is pretty great round cable, for not a lot of money; or any good quality star quad. I have used my own starquad, made from various mid to bordering on the beginnings of silly priced wire (but not mortgage the house silly ... lol.
I also have ETI cablepods, and ITC cannons, but speakons are pretty hard to beat, especially fo the money. Anyway; I wont argue. You like what you like. Its a very good design for what its designed for, IMO. It locks for a reason; its just not everyone needs it to.
OK, as I suspected, you are using a different model to me, i'm using the solder part. but do you mean the release tab? you want to remove that? honestly apart from it not being easy to open with the internal strain relief; due to it being locking, I have no issue and have used many similar strain reliefs. I guess just use round cable, or cable you can make round, or dont use the strain relief. I dont understand the use of that zip type cable anyway, its pretty crappy IMO and aside from convenience when using other types, I never understood the point of it. its badly designed for CMRR, inductive, cheap, crap thats usually using plain plastic dielectric. Mogami star quad power cable is pretty great round cable, for not a lot of money; or any good quality star quad. I have used my own starquad, made from various mid to bordering on the beginnings of silly priced wire (but not mortgage the house silly ... lol.
I also have ETI cablepods, and ITC cannons, but speakons are pretty hard to beat, especially fo the money. Anyway; I wont argue. You like what you like. Its a very good design for what its designed for, IMO. It locks for a reason; its just not everyone needs it to.
" why do you keep repeating it back to me? "
" Anyway; I wont argue."
I think you have to agree with yourself.
Very nice your avatar, surely it represents you fully.
" Anyway; I wont argue."
I think you have to agree with yourself.
Very nice your avatar, surely it represents you fully.
can you explain a single bit of information you added? just a single one. you complain about it not being able to use a type of cable it is clearly not designed for and say its bad design for not working with it. the rest, you were just repeating information back to me, that I included in my very first post and you did it 3 times!!! acted like you were adding something, but just quoted me and then repeated me. If I just wanted to hear myself talk, I should have been very happy with your comments ...
As for the avatar, thanks, I dont take myself too seriously. Its inspector gadget, the cartoon, so yes, it represents that fully ...
As for the avatar, thanks, I dont take myself too seriously. Its inspector gadget, the cartoon, so yes, it represents that fully ...
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" can you explain a single bit of information you added? "
It is not worth the effort .... leave it there.
It is not worth the effort .... leave it there.