The_Mazta said:
I think windvd could stretch a 4:3 image to widescreen, you could see from their site at http://www.intervideo.com/jsp/WinDVDGold_Profile.jsp
panel temp
I have been experimenting for over a month now with a liiliput setup. All seems fine, great pictures happy family, so a time well spend.
One question keeps nagging. The temp of my lilliput. Think about it:
1. run a 250W bulb with an efficiency of 60%
2. light engine/fresnel efficiency of 80%
Now we have a light energy of .6*.8*250 = 120 Watts effective light trhough the panel.
3. An average movie has a luminance of 30% (what I mean is this: the major parts of a movie are relatively dark). The 70% are absorbed by the panel, laws of physic, simple as that!!!!!!!!
So, the panel gets hotter ans hotter. In my example it is exposed to 84 watts !!! Hmm, that seems to be a lot of energy for such a sensitive device.
Now the questions:
1. Can the panel handle this?
2. If not, what do you do about it?
I also posted this in Ace's thread, so far no reaction
I have been experimenting for over a month now with a liiliput setup. All seems fine, great pictures happy family, so a time well spend.
One question keeps nagging. The temp of my lilliput. Think about it:
1. run a 250W bulb with an efficiency of 60%
2. light engine/fresnel efficiency of 80%
Now we have a light energy of .6*.8*250 = 120 Watts effective light trhough the panel.
3. An average movie has a luminance of 30% (what I mean is this: the major parts of a movie are relatively dark). The 70% are absorbed by the panel, laws of physic, simple as that!!!!!!!!
So, the panel gets hotter ans hotter. In my example it is exposed to 84 watts !!! Hmm, that seems to be a lot of energy for such a sensitive device.
Now the questions:
1. Can the panel handle this?
2. If not, what do you do about it?
I also posted this in Ace's thread, so far no reaction
The_Mazta said:
True, but you forgot 1 thing, dust, the more air or fans you have going directly onto the lcd the more dust you will have, filters will work yess, ( old stockings stretched work wonders as they capture the fine dust), but they wont catch it all. Ive got on mine a high velocity airflow due to a high pressure fan running air over a thin barrier, i only need about 3cfm to cool the lcd because of this, and because i dont need so much air i get less dust even without a filter, though, the filter building is next to make it that bit more maintenence free.
Trev
I got around to messing with everything today and after removing the mirror, the image is a perfect rectangle on the ceiling. So before I try getting the mirror perfectly aligned, does it matter which way I have the diylabs triplet mounted? As far as I know, the focals are the same on either side. I'm thinking about flipping it in order to give the mirror more room to move. The only problem it'd cause is requiring the focus arm to be slightly higher due the lens being mounted slightly lower (its already approaching as high as it can possible go without a custom enclosure).
Hopefully I can get the mirror mounted like it needs to be.
Hopefully I can get the mirror mounted like it needs to be.
It very well could be that but I'm not having any luck adjusting it from its holder. Plus I somehow managed to cut myself badly on it when last moving it. I'll mess with it a little more to at least get the image crooked on the side instead of bottom and leave it like that until I build my own enclosure...may be months from now. At that time I'll probably go with an xga native or higher lcd. I just don't think it'll be possible to make everything work properly as its setup now (haven't used a level but it appears that the stage is crooked and that the mirror must be at greater than a 45º angle).
Thanks for the help though and here's hoping that our projectors don't explode or have pixels start dying at a high rate
On that note I had a stuck pixel one night in pictures which is now working. They're never pleasant.
Thanks for the help though and here's hoping that our projectors don't explode or have pixels start dying at a high rate
On that note I had a stuck pixel one night in pictures which is now working. They're never pleasant.
sorry I didn't give a reason that I asked that. But if you have a 310mm fresnel, I am wondering if you are getting the projection from the picture overly wide onto your lens. Meaning you haven't got to a point yet, and the lens is curved, so you are getting roundness from that. I am thinking that maybe a 280mm fresnel or something might give you a brighter image and squarer. But could be wrong, just a thought
Sorry I'm new, and think about stuff after I post. Wish there was a edit button Anyways, the more I think about it, the more I believe that I am correct. you just need to change your fresnel to a lower mm. Especially if you are using the 240mm lens. For instance, just take a piece of black paper, and put it where the lens is. If you get a small point, I am wrong, but if you get a 2-3 inch image, it is too big. I really don't agree that it is your mirror. It would have to be really bent for that to be the problem. Ok, last post
Anyways, the more I think about it, the more I believe that I am correct. you just need to change your fresnel to a lower mm. Especially if you are using the 240mm lens. For instance, just take a piece of black paper, and put it where the lens is. If you get a small point, I am wrong, but if you get a 2-3 inch image, it is too big. I really don't agree that it is your mirror. It would have to be really bent for that to be the problem. Ok, last post- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.