Thanks for the info. To me as in this diagram there is a 48V swing so the two batteries in this instance MUST be two 24v batteries wired in series. Am I assuming correctly?
I never wanted to only use batteries with no caps or other components in the power supply, I just don't have the experience to know how to hook it up correctly with my limited knowledge of electronics. I understand your diagram above but for a standard F5 configuration what would be the values of those individual components? How would I go about regulating this supply? Would it use the same components and values that are used in the normal AC PS and basically I am using everything in the Standard F5 circuit EXCEPT the Transformer and Rectifier?
To me its not about doing a battery and the least amount of power supply parts because I am some kind of crazy purist. A battery power supply is actually easy for me as I live on a large catamaran sailboat which already has a 440 Amp Hour 12v House bank(4 Trojan 6V Golf Cart Batteries) and both a 20 Amp shore power charger and 400w solar panel that will put out 2-300 watts for 3 or 4 hours in the best part of the day in Florida where I live and I plan to double this soon by getting another panel. If I'm going to build an amp and system like this it has to work for the boat as it has been my home for 15 years. I want all the components I eventually plan to build to all be the same 24v so I can use them underway off the house and dedicated stereo batteries, and then at the dock use the standard AC PS on here for the F5. and use wall warts to power the Korg Pre and 24 V Xover. I just want to do the battery system and get help from others like you at the very beginning to insure an easier and better sounding outcome. I wanted to order all the parts and boards at the same time and am already on the list for backordered Korg and F5 parts but gonna get the enclosure and what parts and boards I can and start in the next couple weeks.
The resistors could be anything between 2k and 10k.
Caps 15000uF to 33000uF each as many as you like. Probably 2 per rail.
Caps 15000uF to 33000uF each as many as you like. Probably 2 per rail.
I understand but as it is labeled -24 and +24 there must be a certain voltage of battery in that circuit and they are 24 volt in this case.
Here is an example of a capacitance multiplier. This is a simple version that does a good job of eliminating ripple from a standard transformer - bridge rectifier supply. It is the basis for a number of designs, including the "Smooth Like Butter" regulators. What would be needed for battery operation is a way to set a fixed output voltage, for example +/– 22.5V or something close, but lower than 24V to allow the regulator to do its job over the range of incoming battery voltage.
A different selection for the large bipolar transistors will help reduce the dropout voltage. I prefer the NJW3281G and NJW1302G for their low saturation voltage.
To get a fixed output voltage replace the resistors in locations R113, R114, R125 and R126 with a string of appropriate zener diodes. Perhaps a set of four 5.1V zeners such as BZX55B5V1. Leave in the LEDs, use any color you like to tweak the voltage slightly.
A different selection for the large bipolar transistors will help reduce the dropout voltage. I prefer the NJW3281G and NJW1302G for their low saturation voltage.
To get a fixed output voltage replace the resistors in locations R113, R114, R125 and R126 with a string of appropriate zener diodes. Perhaps a set of four 5.1V zeners such as BZX55B5V1. Leave in the LEDs, use any color you like to tweak the voltage slightly.
If you go regulated even with batteries you will want to allow for more fluctuation to maintain regulation.
Say 1.5V for variation in each 12V battery then whatever the dropout might be on the regulator circuit for good performance, eg another 1.5V.
4.5V per rail might be necessary
It might be a good idea to keep this simple as possible as Zenmod says then only add more complexity as required.
Say 1.5V for variation in each 12V battery then whatever the dropout might be on the regulator circuit for good performance, eg another 1.5V.
4.5V per rail might be necessary
It might be a good idea to keep this simple as possible as Zenmod says then only add more complexity as required.
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^ Certainly. Trying for 22.5V was a bit optimistic.
Don't worry about the lower voltage for the Nelson Pass class A designs. They will be fine as long as they have a steady power supply voltage.
Don't worry about the lower voltage for the Nelson Pass class A designs. They will be fine as long as they have a steady power supply voltage.
That is what I plan to do. Start simple and regulate if necessary after figuring out the voltages during warmup, use and heavy use. I usually only listen during the day also and this will allow the solar to supply whatever is lost due to the amps and the voltage should stay RELATIVELY stable. I must just hook it up and figure it out from there and are my intentions moving forward.
I will look into this more closely and thanks so much for your reply. I want to keep it as simple as possible and only add complexity if needed but will study and learn more of this regulation method.