24” subwoofer box bracing help

IMG_20201009_120908.jpg

IMG_20210118_085608.jpg

IMG_20210122_073329.jpg
I would consider a sphere to be the best shape for a speaker enclosure, with a tube second, after trying to find a decent compromise between a tube and box I came up with 45 deg bracing which seems to work. The diagram shows how I perceive a box to flex with unbraced, conventional dowel bracing and 45 deg bracing. The 1 refers to cork between thin ply to stiffen/dampen the enclosure ( that didn't seem to do much ) and 2 is the bits of thin ply used for the 45 deg braces. If you want more ideas about using dowels for bracing I would recommend that you google locomotive firebox stays.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
A sphere is a good enclosure when it comes to diffraction on the outside of the box, but the inside of the box is one of the worst possible shapes.

B&W did the research, as has also been done even more extensivily with devices that move thru the air (like cars), that the best shape is probably a tear-drop shape.

Its size will relate to how low it will be effective.

And i suspect there are much more elegant ways of dealing with balloooning of the enclosure.

dave
 
Member
Joined 2010
Paid Member
How would you recommend I beef it up giving It’s already built... but has not been plugged up and tested. Cross bracing the 4 vertical walls to stiffen the box through its horizontal axis? How can I avoid making this mistake in the future? And would you recommend a different material other than 3/4 in MDF which is the thickest I can get my hands on locally.

So your saying recommend 2 18’s in an isobaric configuration to someone if they are interested in a 24” woofer for similar performance? I can try but the customer usually never listens lol.

You have to realize that MDF is Dave's (Planet10) kryptonite. 😁