snap/push button, PC power supply type. the wires you see are from the new cable I used, PC power type with cables of the same section as the original ones and as also said at Mooly the ground has never been used/connected. as to whether it is bipolar, I don't know, but I'll open it and take a detailed photo of the button area.
I found a manual but it is a poor copy and pretty much unreadable (the circuit). It does indeed use a triac controlled supply though.
One interesting thing was a service bulletin for buzzing.
The PSU circuits (lots of different variants in the manual) is to poor to follow 🙁
This shows the triac controlled primary at the top and the secondary is at the bottom.
One interesting thing was a service bulletin for buzzing.
The PSU circuits (lots of different variants in the manual) is to poor to follow 🙁
This shows the triac controlled primary at the top and the secondary is at the bottom.
It is a an unusual PSU, one of a kind really. I have reservations on triac control of the primary because the triac does not reduce the voltage applied to the primary in a linear way but rather reduces the average voltage by firing (turning on and off) the triac and that to me a recipe for things to make noise (buzz). That said it was obviously a successful design so maybe those things were manageable.
I've no quick or easy answers I'm afraid.
I've no quick or easy answers I'm afraid.
hey Mooly, thanks anyway for all your interest, thanks. it's been buzzing for many years, a little, but it buzzes...
on the button...
maybe there's a mistake in this connection that I made, now that I see it again - what do you think?
the phase and neutral enter the ampli - the blue cable passes from the original glass fuse and goes to the triac, the brown goes directly to the connection that you see. in practice, the button intercepts the passage of current on the board and performs the on-off
on the button...
maybe there's a mistake in this connection that I made, now that I see it again - what do you think?
the phase and neutral enter the ampli - the blue cable passes from the original glass fuse and goes to the triac, the brown goes directly to the connection that you see. in practice, the button intercepts the passage of current on the board and performs the on-off
No, I meant what I wrote. Somewhere. Anywhere. Including the amp. Are you switching the live wire?
Okay, so my view is the following.
Please don't take this the wrong way, but I think that if the designer of that high/very high output power amplifier thought of not inserting any switch, maybe he had his reasons.
However, the fact that you didn't answer any of my questions and that you can't even tell me if the switch you have inserted is bipolar or not suggests to me the idea that maybe you should have studied the matter better before modifying something that even @Mooly whose knowledge and experience as I said are of the highest level has defined as a one-of-a-kind and never-seen-before power supply.
In my opinion the switch should be bipolar, that is, able to disconnect both the phase and the neutral of the alternating current at the same time, it should be rated for 230VAC, 15A, brand new, high quality and without any built-in fuse and fixed in a free place and in an electrically strong isolated way.
If all the above was satisfied, I guess it would be virtually impossible for the issue you report to happen again.
Good job! 😉
Edit to add: Please note that the price of the switch I showed is around 20 bucks.
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The circuit shows the mains input as just two wire which implies double insulation and no ground wire.
The only thing I have found is someway saying that this power amp is meant to be controlled by a Carver preamp that has suitable switched mains outlets on it.
That little rocker switch that has been fitted does not look up to the job really and something like the one you show looks much more suitable. High current rocker switches are available as well with or without illumination.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rocker-switches/7932516?gb=s
20A rated and suitable for fridge/freezers etc meaning OK with inductive loads.
Yes, I also like rocker switches (which do not cost much, if you exclude shipping costs which could often be prohibitive if you buy just one piece), especially if they are illuminated. 🙂
I prefer them especially if the cabinet where I've to mount them is made of plastic or wood or in any case of an easily shapeable material.
However, I consider the type I showed more reliable over time (my preference) and infinitely easier to mount since you only have to make a relatively small circular hole and not a large rectangular one. 😉
I prefer them especially if the cabinet where I've to mount them is made of plastic or wood or in any case of an easily shapeable material.
However, I consider the type I showed more reliable over time (my preference) and infinitely easier to mount since you only have to make a relatively small circular hole and not a large rectangular one. 😉
nice buttons,
now i have to figure out how to connect them and if i have to make any changes. i have to reread what you suggested first.
Ignoring the yellow-green wire you just have to cut both blue and brown wires and solder them or attach them with a crimped faston to the related pins on the two sides of the switch (which I also showed you from the pin side, which are separated by an insulating plastic sheet) on the other two sides you attach the second end that you have after cutting both blue and brown wires.
It's easier to do than to describe.
It's easier to do than to describe.
😊 yes yes,
let's make a nice summary - it is quite obvious that the button I used is not suitable and I will change it without any doubt. if I have not answered all your questions it is only because in some parts of your writings I have to translate the text, it is not easy if the English is based only on programming and web developer. anyway yes, I think I understood how to connect the new one without passing / interrupting on the card. as for the power supply that should come from a pre carver, I will have to go and see how it is made, because as a pre I use a Fortè Audio model2 in class A.
let's make a nice summary - it is quite obvious that the button I used is not suitable and I will change it without any doubt. if I have not answered all your questions it is only because in some parts of your writings I have to translate the text, it is not easy if the English is based only on programming and web developer. anyway yes, I think I understood how to connect the new one without passing / interrupting on the card. as for the power supply that should come from a pre carver, I will have to go and see how it is made, because as a pre I use a Fortè Audio model2 in class A.
@Mooly
as you said, i took a look at the Carver preamp that turns on the power amp. it is the 4000t model, on the back it has a series of female inputs. i don't think it has any particular power systems, maybe when it turns on there is a delay of a few seconds for the power amp.
@Logon
it was a very easy connection taken from a site where there were images to correctly connect the cables. when I put it into practice, as well as others, it worked immediately. but as I said yesterday, looking at it again today, only one phase is intercepted and so now I remove it and put the button on the two cables. with this method the current will certainly not enter.
e grazie per il disegno 👍
as you said, i took a look at the Carver preamp that turns on the power amp. it is the 4000t model, on the back it has a series of female inputs. i don't think it has any particular power systems, maybe when it turns on there is a delay of a few seconds for the power amp.
@Logon
it was a very easy connection taken from a site where there were images to correctly connect the cables. when I put it into practice, as well as others, it worked immediately. but as I said yesterday, looking at it again today, only one phase is intercepted and so now I remove it and put the button on the two cables. with this method the current will certainly not enter.
e grazie per il disegno 👍
I see there are switched and unswitched outputs on that preamp but I somehow doubt there will be a delay circuit which would complicate things and require a reliable timer and relays.