Similar problem as Duene
I too am getting oscillations in the voltage, however not as severe. For the 33 rpm the voltage swings from 5.3 V to 7.4 V and for the 45 setting it goes from 6.7V to 8.8 V. I cannot fine tune either potentiometer to get a steady voltage and have given up playing with the DIP switches. I have taken out R24, the bypass resistor as mentioned in the above post.
Would I also have to increase the supply voltage as suggested to Duene? Can someone please explain to me (an electronic illiterate) exactly what I have to do? I am a follow the dots kind of person. Do I need a variac to bump up the incoming voltage to the whole unit?
I think luvdunhill had a similar problem?
Thanks in advance.
Frank M
I too am getting oscillations in the voltage, however not as severe. For the 33 rpm the voltage swings from 5.3 V to 7.4 V and for the 45 setting it goes from 6.7V to 8.8 V. I cannot fine tune either potentiometer to get a steady voltage and have given up playing with the DIP switches. I have taken out R24, the bypass resistor as mentioned in the above post.
Would I also have to increase the supply voltage as suggested to Duene? Can someone please explain to me (an electronic illiterate) exactly what I have to do? I am a follow the dots kind of person. Do I need a variac to bump up the incoming voltage to the whole unit?
I think luvdunhill had a similar problem?
Thanks in advance.
Frank M
Answering my own question(s)
When Mark Kelly was referring to the frictional loss in the bearing in the above post , it got me to thinking that perhaps it's my belt (or in my case thread) that was causing me grief in that it might be slipping on the outside of the platter thus causing slippage and playing havoc with the bearings and torque capacity of the motor.
So I took the thread off and then tried adjusting the the pot to get the correct voltage with out any load on the pulley. Sure enough I got 6.0V spot on for the 33 rpm switch and steady as a rock. Now I have to play with motor position and not have so much tension in the string causing the torque capacity of the motor to be exceeded and perhaps get another thread that does not slip as much.
It pays to read these posts and study them before asking.
On to more tweaking.......
Frank M
When Mark Kelly was referring to the frictional loss in the bearing in the above post , it got me to thinking that perhaps it's my belt (or in my case thread) that was causing me grief in that it might be slipping on the outside of the platter thus causing slippage and playing havoc with the bearings and torque capacity of the motor.
So I took the thread off and then tried adjusting the the pot to get the correct voltage with out any load on the pulley. Sure enough I got 6.0V spot on for the 33 rpm switch and steady as a rock. Now I have to play with motor position and not have so much tension in the string causing the torque capacity of the motor to be exceeded and perhaps get another thread that does not slip as much.
It pays to read these posts and study them before asking.
On to more tweaking.......
Frank M
Dear Mark,
thanks for your useful support.
I have revised my bearing - it has got a new bearing parts and I use a better oel.
Then I have found a better combination of the dip-switches and the trim - resitor
on the mainboard. Now it works very well - I´m very happy with your system.
If you want, have a look on my player with your system
hxxp://picasaweb.google.de/holger.deunert/MeinDIYDreher#5309035564873398402
Sincerely yours
Holger
thanks for your useful support.
I have revised my bearing - it has got a new bearing parts and I use a better oel.
Then I have found a better combination of the dip-switches and the trim - resitor
on the mainboard. Now it works very well - I´m very happy with your system.
If you want, have a look on my player with your system
hxxp://picasaweb.google.de/holger.deunert/MeinDIYDreher#5309035564873398402
Sincerely yours
Holger
Hi All,
I just shot an email to Mark, but I'm hoping someone here might be able to help.
I am just ordering the parts now, and I really would like to avoid e-sonic and newark.
Does anybody know of acceptable replacement parts from digikey and mouser.
From e-sonic it appears to just be generic power parts, but if somebody knows actual part number, it would be appreciated.
Also, from newark, I just can't seem to find the proper pins and jumpers on digikey. I assume they have them. Also, I would love some help on the part numbers of a fuse holder that would fit the board.
Thanks!
-West
I just shot an email to Mark, but I'm hoping someone here might be able to help.
I am just ordering the parts now, and I really would like to avoid e-sonic and newark.
Does anybody know of acceptable replacement parts from digikey and mouser.
From e-sonic it appears to just be generic power parts, but if somebody knows actual part number, it would be appreciated.
Also, from newark, I just can't seem to find the proper pins and jumpers on digikey. I assume they have them. Also, I would love some help on the part numbers of a fuse holder that would fit the board.
Thanks!
-West
Fuse holder on www.newark.com is just there as per the part list number. It is a SCHURTER - 0031.8201, newark No: 96F8317
e-sonic parts are off the board, there connector for the battery, or to use an external DC adapter, if not using the integrated battery charger power supply. Use whatever connector you like.
For the pins and jumper, I don't know what part you're referring to. If it is JP2, here again it is a very simple 3 pins header connector, as used on all the PC cards in the world to select IRQ, address, options, etc. I'm pretty sure you have some laying around in your junk box. You can get these parts from digikey as well or mouser, just search header connector.
e-sonic parts are off the board, there connector for the battery, or to use an external DC adapter, if not using the integrated battery charger power supply. Use whatever connector you like.
For the pins and jumper, I don't know what part you're referring to. If it is JP2, here again it is a very simple 3 pins header connector, as used on all the PC cards in the world to select IRQ, address, options, etc. I'm pretty sure you have some laying around in your junk box. You can get these parts from digikey as well or mouser, just search header connector.
Having a little problem
Hi All,
I have been using this kit very happily for the last few months. But the last couple of times i have used my tt the speed has become unstable. Could the above post have any bearing on my problem?
I used my KAB speed strobe to set-up, then when listening i noticed it slowed, so i reset the speed and after a side or two heard it speed up again. up until now i have only adjusted it every two or three weeks. but I never got around to setting the DIP switches and now cant find the spread sheet file. But i need 8.73v for 45 and 6.95v for 33, can you link to the file or tell me the settings please?
I think i need to fine tune the adjustments and belt tension etc and see if the instability persists.
Many Thanks
Ian
Mark Kelly said:
Hi All,
I have been using this kit very happily for the last few months. But the last couple of times i have used my tt the speed has become unstable. Could the above post have any bearing on my problem?
I used my KAB speed strobe to set-up, then when listening i noticed it slowed, so i reset the speed and after a side or two heard it speed up again. up until now i have only adjusted it every two or three weeks. but I never got around to setting the DIP switches and now cant find the spread sheet file. But i need 8.73v for 45 and 6.95v for 33, can you link to the file or tell me the settings please?
I think i need to fine tune the adjustments and belt tension etc and see if the instability persists.
Many Thanks
Ian
Webby
Check the motor first.
The symptoms you describe sound to me like the upper bearing is toast. If that is the case check the radial force applied by the drive belt - the maximal radial force allowed by Maxon is quite low.
Check the motor first.
The symptoms you describe sound to me like the upper bearing is toast. If that is the case check the radial force applied by the drive belt - the maximal radial force allowed by Maxon is quite low.
mark kelly PCB
Hi
Does anyone have a Mark Kelly motor control PCB for sale
Please email me with price to united kingdom
thanks in advance
Hi
Does anyone have a Mark Kelly motor control PCB for sale
Please email me with price to united kingdom
thanks in advance
Mark Kelly said:
Hi Mark,
Is there a procedure to test the motor bearings, The motor has always had the same noise level and i haven't used much radial force. I remember another person having that problem early on.
Maybe I have a faulty motor? I have always left a little belt slip to act as a clutch and just enough tension to hold the belt level on the pulley. am using the mag tape.
Thanks
Ian
Some questions
Hi,
I am a little new to electronics, so I have three questions, if I may:
1. should I use this file as my component list: TT_Motor_Controller_SB_Doc_Ver_1.6
2. What will be a good place to buy it online?
3. I am building a separate base for the platter and motor. Now, the motor will be placed on a wooden base, and the PCB and battery will be placed in different metal box. Now, can I "pull wires" for the leds and switches in order to place them on the wood? this will enable me to place the electronics in distance box. Is there a risk of overheating near the wood?
I really appreciate your help,
Thanks
Yaki
Hi,
I am a little new to electronics, so I have three questions, if I may:
1. should I use this file as my component list: TT_Motor_Controller_SB_Doc_Ver_1.6
2. What will be a good place to buy it online?
3. I am building a separate base for the platter and motor. Now, the motor will be placed on a wooden base, and the PCB and battery will be placed in different metal box. Now, can I "pull wires" for the leds and switches in order to place them on the wood? this will enable me to place the electronics in distance box. Is there a risk of overheating near the wood?
I really appreciate your help,
Thanks
Yaki
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