Hi dear members. Someone can please help me finding or designing a cabinet for 2 B&C 18SW115? loud outdoor techno, edm, trance and psy trance is the main goal, but i have a problem.. A really big problem. max large 100cm (39,37 inches) not a single cm more or it wil not enter the trunk of my car. I like a lot the style of the EV MTL1 but is too large.. please help me
Since the 18sw115 can eat 3.4kW for breakfast you need an amp that can reach that easily.
2 drivers and you look @7kW ... So a an amp that can do 10kW bridged at 4ohms will do
If you have 8 ohm drivers parallel them
If you have 4 ohm ones
A pair of inukes 6000 bridged , one per driver.
Admark,CVR and Sanway are viable options if you are in the same boat as many of us that cannot get labgruppen,dynacord,power soft, speaker power,lacoustics,danley,RCF... just to say some professional brand name ampifiers
2 drivers and you look @7kW ... So a an amp that can do 10kW bridged at 4ohms will do
If you have 8 ohm drivers parallel them
If you have 4 ohm ones
A pair of inukes 6000 bridged , one per driver.
Admark,CVR and Sanway are viable options if you are in the same boat as many of us that cannot get labgruppen,dynacord,power soft, speaker power,lacoustics,danley,RCF... just to say some professional brand name ampifiers
I have 2 soundigital 8k 2ohm. They put out like 5k at 4 ohm, so the problem Is not the amplifier. My problem Is the cabinet. Must not be larger than 100cm, height and depth are something like 85 and 85. Someone of you can help me suggesting me a design? Maybe a long throw or something good at events for loud dj set
Something like the EAW SB1000 or other designs like it should do: SB1000z 18Sound However at those dimensions a front loaded reflex will also work and with a bit of effort you could adjust a THAM18 or Cubo 218 to fit as well (including castors). For techno, trance and goa trance 40 Hz and up will do.
Offset-driver TL for one driver. Two boxes side by side = 100cm x 78cm x 71cm. You can make the box slightly narrower, if you trim the inside of the side panels a little to allow the driver's frame to clear and be mounted on the baffle. Good to 35 Hz. Brace that top panel and lie them flat and stacked for best response. Well, it's a start.... 
i like the @Brian Steele solution, i never thought about splitting in half the box but i'm curious what are you talking about @Smitske96
Hi, trunk bed is 85cm deep but I doubt the top is. Perhaps 50x80 or 60x60 or something like that fits, 1m wide of course.
Perhaps Brian Steele box fits if you slant one edge so that the hatch closes.
Measure available space accurately, hatch closed.
Downsized Offset TL. Fb is now 37 Hz and the response will be sloping down to that point, but it's nothing you can't fix with a bit of EQ or DSP. Brace the top panel, add a little stuffing to the top chamber behind the woofer. 100 x 65 x 60, so fits your dimensions. 3:1 Sd/Vent ratio, basically right on the minimum ratio I'd use for a subwoofer.
Are these going to be used while IN the car? If so, consider the possibility that the vents might end up getting blocked ...
Are these going to be used while IN the car? If so, consider the possibility that the vents might end up getting blocked ...
I forgot to mention, my workbook does not take into consideration the volume displaced by the driver's chassis. Not usually a big issue with larger boxes, but as box size gets smaller, the impact may be more noticeable. I suspect that for this design the efficiency around Fb might be impacted a bit.
Slightly tweaked version. Speaker baffle is now square, and just fits the driver. Basically, install the driver dead center of the baffle. As the baffle is recessed a bit into the cabinet, it will be a very snug fit. Can't double-up on the baffle thickness because that gives up too much volume. Second picture shows suggestion for possible bracing for the top panel. Fb will now be closer to 38 Hz, so you're not going to be able to reproduce anything below that with this design.
You might need to trim the internal panel a bit around the driver's magnet to ensure proper clearance for the vent. That shouldn't affect Fb too much.
The second picture is a suggestion of where to put the brace for the top panel.
It doesn't take long to create these - just a few minutes with my BOXPLAN workbook.
Check to ensure that the vents are not blocked even with the trunk open.
You might need to trim the internal panel a bit around the driver's magnet to ensure proper clearance for the vent. That shouldn't affect Fb too much.
The second picture is a suggestion of where to put the brace for the top panel.
It doesn't take long to create these - just a few minutes with my BOXPLAN workbook.
Check to ensure that the vents are not blocked even with the trunk open.
Brian, What is the top panel? Cause as it is shown it is intersecting the panel behind the driver. So you need to cut 2 pieces for the bracing?
Or the top panel is the one that is removed (side) so to show the internal panel layout, cause if you add that panel you won't be able to see how the internal path is made.
Or the top panel is the one that is removed (side) so to show the internal panel layout, cause if you add that panel you won't be able to see how the internal path is made.