Ummmm.....
If you want deep bass from a 7" woofer....
Zaph|Audio - Bargain Aluminum MTM
You'd have to build the floor standing version with bass port..... Or design a TL. 30hz bass is achievable. Or another way, it would be able to produce notes throughout the usual music spectrum. The enclosures will be large.
Jerms, that is a brilliant suggestion. That Dayton metal woofer might be OK after all.
And we sure like SEAS metal domes like H1212-06 27TBFC/G
TBH, I think any metal woofer is going to annoy me with it's harsh sound though. Even in the admirable MTM layout. 😀
There really isn't a single optimum solution to this whole loudspeaker business.
Now if I was doing a bassy speaker, I might pick the SEAS metal dome and something like this Vifa/Scanspeak P21 8" polycone: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/scanspeak-classic-p21wo20-8-woofer-poly-cone/
There's no replacement for displacement at the bass end. 🙂
And we sure like SEAS metal domes like H1212-06 27TBFC/G
TBH, I think any metal woofer is going to annoy me with it's harsh sound though. Even in the admirable MTM layout. 😀
There really isn't a single optimum solution to this whole loudspeaker business.
Now if I was doing a bassy speaker, I might pick the SEAS metal dome and something like this Vifa/Scanspeak P21 8" polycone: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/scanspeak-classic-p21wo20-8-woofer-poly-cone/
There's no replacement for displacement at the bass end. 🙂
Jerms, that is a brilliant suggestion. That Dayton metal woofer might be OK after all.
And we sure like SEAS metal domes like H1212-06 27TBFC/G
TBH, I think any metal woofer is going to annoy me with it's harsh sound though. Even in the admirable MTM layout. 😀
There really isn't a single optimum solution to this whole loudspeaker business.
Now if I was doing a bassy speaker, I might pick the SEAS metal dome and something like this Vifa/Scanspeak P21 8" polycone: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-8-woofers/scanspeak-classic-p21wo20-8-woofer-poly-cone/
There's no replacement for displacement at the bass end. 🙂
If building destroying SPL is not the goal.
DA175 in an MLTL.... 120cm by 400cm2. Port length and location to suit tuning of around 30-33hz. Volume of 48L.
SB65WBAC25-4 in a minor enclosure (tube?) above the woofer.
I modelled it with a 27hz HPF on the woofer to avoid exceeding XMAX too easily and to cut the hump out of the box tuning. SPL would be around 96-97dB at around 15W per woofer.
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Hi again
I went to listen some bookshelf. Some Dalis, non-brands etc. As discussed here earlier - there was some lack of strong, low end, but actually I was a bit too afraid about that topic. Speakers had 6'' drivers, positioned half meter from the back wall. They actually are quite good for background listening and using them not too loud. Not too thin at all, F3 around 60Hz in real life, that is realistically enough to expect from 6-7'' drivers.
So, I decided to go ahead and I am still looking towards some Daytons and found RR-180 is solid woofer (better low end, higher sensivity, very low distortion). Maybe even better to match with SS 9130HDS tweeter than DSA175?
I went to listen some bookshelf. Some Dalis, non-brands etc. As discussed here earlier - there was some lack of strong, low end, but actually I was a bit too afraid about that topic. Speakers had 6'' drivers, positioned half meter from the back wall. They actually are quite good for background listening and using them not too loud. Not too thin at all, F3 around 60Hz in real life, that is realistically enough to expect from 6-7'' drivers.
So, I decided to go ahead and I am still looking towards some Daytons and found RR-180 is solid woofer (better low end, higher sensivity, very low distortion). Maybe even better to match with SS 9130HDS tweeter than DSA175?
A single RS180-4 looks like a good option. The other driver mentioned is the DA175, DSA175 is different again.
A single RA180-4 requires a much smaller enclosure than 2xDA175.
J.
A single RA180-4 requires a much smaller enclosure than 2xDA175.
J.
Did some research and learned new things, so I will go ahead with SS 18W/4531. I found many advantages these ones have. Some things you can not just measure aka. sonic, details of sound, naturality.
Though I have also Dayton RS180-4, these probably will go to my car doors as midbass.
Though I have also Dayton RS180-4, these probably will go to my car doors as midbass.
It's worth running ideas by the Parts Express techs, too. I've had good advice from them, based on their own projects and customer feedback.
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
Another to consider, and from personal experience, a better overall driver, is this one from Meniscus:
meniscusaudio.com/shop/mid-woofers/eclipse-w6520r-4/
Very easy to use, digs well into the 30hz range, and takes power pretty well. Ive used it a number of times now. In my Armonicos design available at Meniscus and recently for a friend matched to a Dayton rs28f. Both use fairly straight forward crossovers without the need for additional filtering.
meniscusaudio.com/shop/mid-woofers/eclipse-w6520r-4/
Very easy to use, digs well into the 30hz range, and takes power pretty well. Ive used it a number of times now. In my Armonicos design available at Meniscus and recently for a friend matched to a Dayton rs28f. Both use fairly straight forward crossovers without the need for additional filtering.
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