Hi, 69 Jazzmaster,
Getting the mid bass horn right can be a royal PIA. I will pass on some information that was told to me by some horn experts ( and I have used ) . Any irregularities in throat or parallel surfaces in front of the driver are " NOT CORRECTABLE " by any means. Meaning, the sound distortion, reflections, disruption of air flow, etc. cannot be removed from the sound. ALL the surfaces in front of the the driver must be tapered away from the driver. I realize there are very few ( store bought ) good, mid bass horn solutions on the market. Sorry to say, these statements are pretty much written in stone. I had to build my own mid bass horns for this reason. Here is some info on the 816 mid bass horn. Good luck with your project.
Altec 816
Joe
Getting the mid bass horn right can be a royal PIA. I will pass on some information that was told to me by some horn experts ( and I have used ) . Any irregularities in throat or parallel surfaces in front of the driver are " NOT CORRECTABLE " by any means. Meaning, the sound distortion, reflections, disruption of air flow, etc. cannot be removed from the sound. ALL the surfaces in front of the the driver must be tapered away from the driver. I realize there are very few ( store bought ) good, mid bass horn solutions on the market. Sorry to say, these statements are pretty much written in stone. I had to build my own mid bass horns for this reason. Here is some info on the 816 mid bass horn. Good luck with your project.
Altec 816
Joe
I hope I don't derail the conversation, just trying to be on the same page. The horn goes with the flat walls up and down. H and V means looking at the sides on their own or the top/bottom on their own.
The theory is that narrow directivity is more useful up and down, whether it's the ceiling reflection in a domestic situation, or ear level in a pro situation, broadly speaking.
However, narrow in theory needs the longest and tallest horn sections, even though they are always cut short for practical reasons. This suggests the top panel may be diffracting the most.
I'm going to have to chew on that one for a bit Allen... you're info is above my pay grade! But, after some thought and research, I think I'll go with the cabs set up as intended with the horns on the side, Flats on the top and bottom. I am going to bypass active/biamping and go straight to the Model 19 crossovers from GPA. If the sound is not what I'm looking for, I can go the biamp/active crossover to nail the XO point. But I would rather not go active if not necessary and I figure as all the components (minus the cabs) are used in the model 19, go with the M19 crossover.
Regarding wiring, is there a trick to getting the externally mounted horns wired internally to the terminal plate? as it's not a sealed cab, I was going to drill a small hole at the top back of cab to feed in the hookup wires from the horns to the crossover. Is there a better plan of action?
Regarding wiring, is there a trick to getting the externally mounted horns wired internally to the terminal plate? as it's not a sealed cab, I was going to drill a small hole at the top back of cab to feed in the hookup wires from the horns to the crossover. Is there a better plan of action?