Even as I usually do not recommend replacing drivers, there may be a Seas driver that matches your tweeter. It is used in the Seas Mimir kit and the tweeter has identical parameters than yours. It may be that it is only an redisigned rear cover. Please do not be confused by the 1dB difference in SPL. This ist very little and can be to some minor tollerances in production. With cheaper speakers you easily get tollerances of +-1dB and more between two identical units.
The x-over of the Mimir has the advantage to have a very straight forward high pass with a voltage divider. So if for any personal preference, it may sound too fresh or too dull for you, these two resistors can be matched to taste.
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...d=381:mimir-seas-diy-kits&catid=66&Itemid=250
I would not hesitate to build the Mimir with your tweeter. It is a very well known and very high quality kit by the way and matches your price tag.
The x-over of the Mimir has the advantage to have a very straight forward high pass with a voltage divider. So if for any personal preference, it may sound too fresh or too dull for you, these two resistors can be matched to taste.
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option...d=381:mimir-seas-diy-kits&catid=66&Itemid=250
I would not hesitate to build the Mimir with your tweeter. It is a very well known and very high quality kit by the way and matches your price tag.
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LS5/19 Kland & Ton March 2012. Look hard enough and you'll find the K&T pdf. Sell off the tweeters and build as designed. Otherwise buy (or borrow for some time) a measurment microphone (UMIK-1), learn Holmimpulse and X-Sim and redesign the crossover for the Scan-Speak tweeter. Tweeters are easier to replace than woofers and the Monacor SPH-145HQ is a very good one.
That's a nice looking speaker, but in that cabinet I think 40Hz is a bit optimistic; assuming the driver specs are accurate, WinISD suggests an F3 of about 60Hz in that volume.
I did a test build of the SDS160 (very similar driver but more Xmax) and the BC25TG and found the specified crossover sounded a bit bright for my taste. That said, my mods didn't sound that much better - less bright but a bit muddy.
With some work by someone who knows their stuff and has the skill and equipment, those drivers could sound really good.
Geoff
Thank you for pointing that out. The Mimir would be the only build I'd consider but I was not sure if I should take the risk. So you are saying I'm case there is to be a problem I can swap out the resistors? Is there anyone whom I can ask directly with this (does Seas give support here?)?
from post #5
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/seas-l15rly-27tffc.313436/
"The TDFC is essentially the same tweeter as the TFFC, but with a plastic surround, so should work just as well in this design.
Alex"
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s-prestige-27tffc-h0881-textile-dome-tweeter/
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s-prestige-27tdfc-h1189-textile-dome-tweeter/
- Interesting, same VC res 4.8 ohms, same VC inductance 0.05 mH, same free air res 550 hz, 91db vs 90db, both fabric domes, graphs look very similar.
Could check other designs with Seas 27tdfc
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/seas-l15rly-27tffc.313436/
"The TDFC is essentially the same tweeter as the TFFC, but with a plastic surround, so should work just as well in this design.
Alex"
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s-prestige-27tffc-h0881-textile-dome-tweeter/
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...s-prestige-27tdfc-h1189-textile-dome-tweeter/
- Interesting, same VC res 4.8 ohms, same VC inductance 0.05 mH, same free air res 550 hz, 91db vs 90db, both fabric domes, graphs look very similar.
Could check other designs with Seas 27tdfc
The missing parts for the MIMIR are a woofer and some x-over parts. So with a 300$ budget there are 100$ left for the x-overr components. The values are NO secret, so you can buy what you want and are not forced to buy fancy, expensive, identical sounding boutique parts.
Buy cooper air inductors, resistors and 100V (or higher rating) film capacitors. With inductors, the resistance (Ohm) matters, the resistors need to match the Watt value. These parts may be from different manufacturers, depending on the region you buy them.
Please, do not overestimate the difference two tweeters may have sonically. If the frequency response, even under angle, the resonance curve, the cone material, the mecanical dimensions and any other parameter match within measuring tollerance, you will not be able to hear any difference.
There are some similar looking Seas tweeters, that could easily be used in the MIMIR, but these would need some professional adjusting in the x-over. This one does not. I was realy surprised when I found this identical unit in the data sheets.
Buy cooper air inductors, resistors and 100V (or higher rating) film capacitors. With inductors, the resistance (Ohm) matters, the resistors need to match the Watt value. These parts may be from different manufacturers, depending on the region you buy them.
Please, do not overestimate the difference two tweeters may have sonically. If the frequency response, even under angle, the resonance curve, the cone material, the mecanical dimensions and any other parameter match within measuring tollerance, you will not be able to hear any difference.
There are some similar looking Seas tweeters, that could easily be used in the MIMIR, but these would need some professional adjusting in the x-over. This one does not. I was realy surprised when I found this identical unit in the data sheets.