I am lost, so hopefully someone here can help me.
I have some old speakers that I had bought some crossovers for and some new diaphragms for the horns. I recently made a mistake and dropped a cable with an amp on and I think either fried a crossover or the tweeter, but it seems the tweeter still is playing but sounds dull and a little muddy compared to the other side.
How do I test a capacitor with a multi meter?
Which one would be the one I would look at for my horn?
Can someone please break down what each one of the components are here so I can learn about this thing? I really want to get these going again.
I bought these on Ebay 2017 and now the design has changed. This was supposedly a JBL or copy and is a 1200khz / 2 way crossover. The fuse removed only slightly lowers the highs it wills till work without it in . These are in a 2 old Peavy SP3 speaker.
Thank you and any help or ideas are appreciated. I paid $100 for these and I can not buy another set right now, so I would like to try and replace the capacitor if possible.
I just soldered the diaphragm back on and the sould level is the same as the good speaker, but the bass and highs have lost clarity. Is this as simple as replacing both capacitors?
I have some old speakers that I had bought some crossovers for and some new diaphragms for the horns. I recently made a mistake and dropped a cable with an amp on and I think either fried a crossover or the tweeter, but it seems the tweeter still is playing but sounds dull and a little muddy compared to the other side.
How do I test a capacitor with a multi meter?
Which one would be the one I would look at for my horn?
Can someone please break down what each one of the components are here so I can learn about this thing? I really want to get these going again.
I bought these on Ebay 2017 and now the design has changed. This was supposedly a JBL or copy and is a 1200khz / 2 way crossover. The fuse removed only slightly lowers the highs it wills till work without it in . These are in a 2 old Peavy SP3 speaker.
Thank you and any help or ideas are appreciated. I paid $100 for these and I can not buy another set right now, so I would like to try and replace the capacitor if possible.
I just soldered the diaphragm back on and the sould level is the same as the good speaker, but the bass and highs have lost clarity. Is this as simple as replacing both capacitors?
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It doesn't seem clear what has happened. Have you tried connecting the dull sounding tweeter through the other crossover to see whether one crossover is the problem? You could measure the resistance of each tweeter to see if they still match. You could also post a larger photo of both sides of the board so we can work out the circuit.
Hi, thanks for the response.
I was moving somethings around and stupidly pulled the cables from the back of my preamp and my amps are at half gain, so when the plug hit the floor there was a loud boom that came out.
At this point I have runt the other drivers off this crossover and it seems it is bad, plus the woofer is not as pronounced as the other one. I would think I need to figure out which capacitors are bad and change them.
I was moving somethings around and stupidly pulled the cables from the back of my preamp and my amps are at half gain, so when the plug hit the floor there was a loud boom that came out.
At this point I have runt the other drivers off this crossover and it seems it is bad, plus the woofer is not as pronounced as the other one. I would think I need to figure out which capacitors are bad and change them.
I wouldn't necessarily assume the capacitors have been damaged, although it is still uncertain. Smell the damaged board to detect heat damage. Check the copper traces for fusing.
Some of the parts can be tested in place and others maybe not. I can't tell without seeing the board.
Some of the parts can be tested in place and others maybe not. I can't tell without seeing the board.
Try what some of the other's have already said. Try both tweeters, one at a time with the "suspect" crossover. You can also try both tweeters one at a time with the "good" crossover. The secret (not REALLY a secret) to trouble shooting is to try one thing at a time; ie, the process of elimination. It is much more highly likely that the tweeter got fried rather than a crossover part.
I'm puzzled by that statement. If the fuse is there to protect the tweeter then when it's blown or removed the tweeter will not work at all.
If the fuse is intact and the tweeter is working at a reduced level, then I would suspect a tweeter overload. Damage to any of those film capacitors is unlikely.
That is what I thought. I figured it would completely stop open the tweeter circuit in the first place if removed. I did like the sound these gave, but I suspect the quality r original design is flawed maybe. If I remove the fuse and use a screw driver it does the same thing.
I will try switching the tweeter again, but I also think the woofer sounds different.
These are old PA speakers modified. They originally crossed at 800hz. I changed woofer, crossover to 1200khz and added new diaphragms and little things to the cabs.
The woofer goes up to 2000khz, but I have to crossed at 1200khz and I can hear a little difference in the woofer too.
The seller mentioned they think it was the capacitors that failed. I bought it from some party sound place on ebay and I thought they said they make them, but the new design has changed and they want 100 for new ones.
So far I have done the following:
-using a regular stereo to power them now
-switched channels to be sure it sounds the same on L/R channel and A/B channels.
-connected other tweeter to this crossover
-Disassembled and removed tweeter diaphragm
Tweeter and woofer play as loud as the other speaker but are dull and not as clear on bass and treble.
Thank you for all the help guys.
Also, I got these with blown tweeters and when they blow they blow, so the fact that the tweeter wants to play at volume and has some tone control makes me think the capacitors have failed. I will inspect for fluids, but I don't see that originally either.
I wish I knew enough about this stuff.
I wish I knew enough about this stuff.
and every time I blow an amp and it won't turn on, the power switch is broken. I'm sure your seller meant well, but.. (by the way your capacitors do not have fluid)
The feed back you are giving is a little vague and not conclusive. It would be good to put a tick or a cross on specific items.
The capacitors look like film (i.e. 'dry') types and not electrolytic (i.e. 'wet') types. Such capacitors are highly unlikely to fail under the 'dropped cable' situation that you describe.
A larger photo (top & bottom) of the crossover may be helpful, as has already been suggested.
Can you describe this difference in more detail? Could it be that the midrange reproduction is lacking in the 'faulty' speaker?
It is not a fuse for protection, more likely a light bulb that acts as an overdrive protector, lots of speaker manufactures use light bulbs to protect tweeters.
When the bulb element heats up it acts as a soft knee compressor
When the bulb element heats up it acts as a soft knee compressor
The good speaker is very clear and crisp as you would expect from a speaker, the other has no sharp highs at all even with the treble at max it does not produce the clear crisp sounds. It will play the sound but not have the clean sound. Kind of like comparing an old AM small radio to a Hifi system.
To be clear the sound levels are equal, and it does reproduce bass and the weeter is working, but the only way I could explain it is to say...
Imagine when you use an EQ and if you set the left channel flat at (0) and the right channel you set the bass and treble levels to +3. The left is playing music the same, but the right just sounds more defined.
I would say there is almost that much difference as described above.
Your Peavey tweeters may or may not have ferrofluid, which can thicken over time especially with the heat associated with high power. Also some pro sound passive crossovers have a fuse or polyswitch in parallel with a resistor so the tweeter gets reduced power but is not cut off.
If I remove it it cuts the sound level to the horn down(seems like HZ go down to, but not positive) a tad, so are they designed to break?
What happens when it lights up? I assume it just takes load?
I run pretty serious power through these with no issues before.
Most likely the voice coil is burned, those are probably 14xt, Peavey has been using SP3 for decades, (I have SP3/G models)
Peavey Replacement Repair Parts, Speakers, and Accessories simply speakers is a place to start
Correct. Technically this is a 22a compression driver short throw, originally and I replaced with the XT. Diaphragm.
Alright, I'll try to swap these again and see what happens. I hope it is just the voice coil but it seems to work fine just full.
Is it visible? I disassembled and seen nothing. Has some movement so it does not feel frozen.
if the coil is burnt you will see a discoloration, do they ohm out correctly?
22a is a newer/better driver design.
22a is a newer/better driver design.
I hear a slight difference between diaphragms so I will order a new set and start there. That was my original plan I should have stuck with it.
I hate to throw parts at things, but I guess this could solve it, if not I am not sure if I will stay with 1200hz anyways.
Thanks for all the help so far, I'll keep you updated!
I hate to throw parts at things, but I guess this could solve it, if not I am not sure if I will stay with 1200hz anyways.
Thanks for all the help so far, I'll keep you updated!
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